Trailer size? for a 1985 Amberjack 255

[Teardropty]

So I am back with another question - I recently purchased a 1985 AJ 255 sort of sight unseen. lol I sent my brother to look at what was advertised as a "1980's Searay 22' boat". He did the deal on my behalf and sent me the keys/title. When I went today to check it out at the marina slip, it is in fact a 1985 AJ 255. So now I have until the end of August to find a cheap, and I do mean cheap trailer to tow it about 20 miles to my home for the winter. I want/need to engine work/cleaning over the winter so having a marina take it out and stack it really isn't an option. What size trailer do I need seeing that the beam is 9'8" and the length 25'? I want to make sure I find the right trailer to get it home safely. Also, if anyone has any manuals/info for the 85's AJ 255 let me know. Thanks so much.

 

[jmcdboater]

Howdy, and welcome to the club. You’ll find a tremendous amount of experienced folks here with all the experience needed to help you.
I can’t help you with trailer suggestions, but your manuals are available on Sea Ray’s website. Once there, go to the Owner’s section and you’ll find the manuals. Download and print, whichever you like…. Good luck!

 

[Scott215]

Have a boat hauler put it at your house

 

[Lazy Daze]

A "cheap" trailer usually means one that someone is getting rid of... and usually for good reason. Not sure that you want to buy a trailer that could leave you stranded.

Don't worry about the beam... other than for "legality" trailering reasons - but probably not a huge deal for the distance you're going.

The measurement you need is from the bow eye to the garboard drain plug. Then you'll need a weight - start with the advertised dry weight of the boat (SR's website) and then add in optional equipment, gas, water, batteries, gear, etc.

As noted above, though - you might want to hire someone to pick it up and block it at your house.

 

[Teardropty]

A "cheap" trailer usually means one that someone is getting rid of... and usually for good reason. Not sure that you want to buy a trailer that could leave you stranded.

Don't worry about the beam... other than for "legality" trailering reasons - but probably not a huge deal for the distance you're going.

The measurement you need is from the bow eye to the garboard drain plug. Then you'll need a weight - start with the advertised dry weight of the boat (SR's website) and then add in optional equipment, gas, water, batteries, gear, etc.

As noted above, though - you might want to hire someone to pick it up and block it at your house.

Thanks everyone for the replies. My main concern was the beam issue. I found a trailer with 2 - 5k axles and it is currently holding a 27' (waiting for that boat to be removed) so I think the AJ will fit on it. Anything I should look at as far as bunk placement on the trailer?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Thanks everyone for the replies. My main concern was the beam issue. I found a trailer with 2 - 5k axles and it is currently holding a 27' (waiting for that boat to be removed) so I think the AJ will fit on it. Anything I should look at as far as bunk placement on the trailer?

Move the bunks to match the dimensions of your hull - lifting strakes and stringers

 

[Teardropty]

Move the bunks to match the dimensions of your hull - lifting strakes and stringers

Stupid question - is there any way to know your bunk placement dimensions prior to pulling the boat out of the water? Thanks.

 

[Lazy Daze]

No, not stupid - good question. However, I'm not sure if the answer is out there in printed form anywhere.

If the boat is being lifted on it won't be a problem to measure and adjust. Otherwise... how good are you at holding your breath?

Last resort... make an educated guess then load up, pull out and check. Re-launch if you have to make adjustments.

You should be able to get the length measurement pretty easily while it's in the water against a dock.

 

[Thornton69]

Our hull was built off of a 270 platform. Not sure if similar to yours or not but it supports very well on the bunks directly under it's strakes. Can give you the center dimension of our bunks if no one else can help with the same model.
One thing that should be mentioned is to make sure your tabs are fully up when you load it. Surely the bunks will be under them if it was set up for a 27'.

 

[Teardropty]

The dimensions would be very helpful, thank you

Our hull was built off of a 270 platform. Not sure if similar to yours or not but it supports very well on the bunks directly under it's strakes. Can give you the center dimension of our bunks if no one else can help with the same model.
One thing that should be mentioned is to make sure your tabs are fully up when you load it. Surely the bunks will be under them if it was set up for a 27'.

 

[Thornton69]

The dimensions would be very helpful, thank you

No problem. Hope they help.
My bunks are 3" wide, 6" high and 12' long. At the transom, centers are 53". 55" centers at the front of them. This gives them full support to the inside of the strakes on my hull. I only use the two short front ones as guides for loading. With the front eye locked tight to the winch post, it becomes one with the trailer. No spring or flex in the trailer frame rails.
My trailer is also a 27' model with 5200lb tandem axels. Went that length for the longer reach. The winch post is almost all the way back, but in your situation as a first load, I would rather have the center of gravity forward. Just make sure your tabs are up so they don't get damaged as the main bunks will likely extend past the transom.
Good luck!

 

[DaveKamp]

Here's another option... Let us know where you are... if someone happens to have a trailer that'd suffice enough to make the haulout, perhaps we'd do it... or lend one?

As long as the bunks are remotely CLOSE, doing a 20-mile one-time really isn't a serious deal.