Arminius
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2019
- 1,068
- Boat Info
- Bowrider 200 Select, 2003
- Engines
- 5.0L MPI, 260 hp w/Alpha 1 Drive
I appreciate any constructive criticism which may be posted. This project is to upgrade my 2003 trailer. Tires need replacement after a time (often 6 years is given) regardless of wear I am told. There is a small oval badge with 4 numerals someplace on the tire. The first two digits are the week of manufacture, while the last two indicate the year. Two of my tires are as old as the boat reading "2003", ie, May 2003. Six years would be getting old but 17 is an easy call. It appears radial tires are the way to go. The label inside the frame member at the stern calls out the size. ST215/75R14. Etrailer is shipping the tires ($120 including new galvanized wheels). New matching wheels for the two 3 year old tires I'm keeping are $44 apiece. Closed, chromed lug nuts but not stainless, as it may gall. Added an offset (angled) spare mount ($98) with a lock ($8).
Adding brakes to the front axle (1&3/4") which turns out to be smaller than the 2" rear axle which already has brakes. There are really small #s embossed on the bearing races which confirm the exact sizes. Here "Out of the Box, Co." had lines and fittings lined up for me along with corrosion resistant components. ($268) Amazingly, this FL business did not charge this WA resident any sales tax! Shipping in both cases was free! I am adding drums to the existing drums because the surge master cylinder would not handle disks and they shouldn't be mixed anyway. Also, I don't want to hassle with the extra wire and the backing cut-out solenoid. Previously, I added disks to a couple trailers and they were nice if kind of an installation hassle. I put stainless disks on the one going into salt water but I never thought they were as effective as the cast disks; differing coefficients of friction? My current brake project includes 2 drums, 2 backing plates with shoes and stainless springs and misc, flexible brake lines (7', 3.5' and 18") and a 4 way cross hydraulic fitting. I don't intend to do much trailering but don't want to be that guy alongside the ride in a world of hurt. These upgrades make for a nice package and really aren't that expensive.
1-28-20: Project coming along and I will have photos. Etrailer sold me a galvanized spare tire carrier slanting outward, lug nuts down. Nice concept and looks nice but a bear to replace the tire. Gotta remember to try some experimental sharp maneuvers to make sure it doesn't fold up against the back of the truck.
...Axle stubs are 1.720 at seal races with shields ("Z-rings") bringing the diameter out to 1.750, standard ID for seals. The shields were not available but Evergreen RV had seals with an ID of 1.725 so that will work. Just tossing the worn shields would have created a poor seal and potential grease contamination of shoes.
....4 way fitting was not compatible but I had a couple 3 ways in my junk bin. The inverse flare fittings don't mate up but Seattle brake and clutch flared a 4" brake line for me that puts it all together.
....I'm putting brakes on the 2nd trailer axle because my boat weighs as much as my XT5 tow vehicle. I have good intentions of not taking it any further than the nearby ramp but the future is unknown (largely). Transmissions die when the fluid gets hot and thin, reducing clutch pressures, there's slippage, and the destructive cascade ensues. So, there's an app at the Google store called "Torque" which bluetooths to a $25 plug-in on your OBD2 under the dash and provides transmission fluid temps on your Android cell phone. I had an ML350 and inserted a sensor down the dipstick hole so I could watch a physical gauge on the dash. This is easier and also avoids invasive surgery.
Adding brakes to the front axle (1&3/4") which turns out to be smaller than the 2" rear axle which already has brakes. There are really small #s embossed on the bearing races which confirm the exact sizes. Here "Out of the Box, Co." had lines and fittings lined up for me along with corrosion resistant components. ($268) Amazingly, this FL business did not charge this WA resident any sales tax! Shipping in both cases was free! I am adding drums to the existing drums because the surge master cylinder would not handle disks and they shouldn't be mixed anyway. Also, I don't want to hassle with the extra wire and the backing cut-out solenoid. Previously, I added disks to a couple trailers and they were nice if kind of an installation hassle. I put stainless disks on the one going into salt water but I never thought they were as effective as the cast disks; differing coefficients of friction? My current brake project includes 2 drums, 2 backing plates with shoes and stainless springs and misc, flexible brake lines (7', 3.5' and 18") and a 4 way cross hydraulic fitting. I don't intend to do much trailering but don't want to be that guy alongside the ride in a world of hurt. These upgrades make for a nice package and really aren't that expensive.
1-28-20: Project coming along and I will have photos. Etrailer sold me a galvanized spare tire carrier slanting outward, lug nuts down. Nice concept and looks nice but a bear to replace the tire. Gotta remember to try some experimental sharp maneuvers to make sure it doesn't fold up against the back of the truck.
...Axle stubs are 1.720 at seal races with shields ("Z-rings") bringing the diameter out to 1.750, standard ID for seals. The shields were not available but Evergreen RV had seals with an ID of 1.725 so that will work. Just tossing the worn shields would have created a poor seal and potential grease contamination of shoes.
....4 way fitting was not compatible but I had a couple 3 ways in my junk bin. The inverse flare fittings don't mate up but Seattle brake and clutch flared a 4" brake line for me that puts it all together.
....I'm putting brakes on the 2nd trailer axle because my boat weighs as much as my XT5 tow vehicle. I have good intentions of not taking it any further than the nearby ramp but the future is unknown (largely). Transmissions die when the fluid gets hot and thin, reducing clutch pressures, there's slippage, and the destructive cascade ensues. So, there's an app at the Google store called "Torque" which bluetooths to a $25 plug-in on your OBD2 under the dash and provides transmission fluid temps on your Android cell phone. I had an ML350 and inserted a sensor down the dipstick hole so I could watch a physical gauge on the dash. This is easier and also avoids invasive surgery.
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