Vinyl Plank Flooring - TEMPLATE NEEDED? Tips, Tricks & YOUR Experiences, please

[Maybe A Dancer]

The critical engine room stuff is mostly done now.

The next big project is to remove the stained, worn, nasty, NASTY carpet.

From what I've gleaned here on CSR, the best choice is Vinyl Plank.

Do you suggest click lock, glue down or loose (floating) lay ?

I've decided to use carpet for the curved sides

Now the steps, (ugh) I have many, MANY steps and a good deal of it is curved which complicates things.

About a dozen steps at:

• both sides of the fwd berth
• step down to midcabin
• steps from cockpit to salon

I do understand the issues with carpet removal. Should not be too bad here as a PO already replaced the factory carpet once.

Will I have an uneven surface and have to do the bondo thing or add a subfloor? Won't know till I get the old carpet out.

I'm more concerned with choosing the best product (Allure seems to be highly regarded here on CSR)
What product/materials would best serve me in trimming out the steps, carpet edges and anything else?

What can I use that will BEND in trimming out all these stairs?

Want to get all the materials ordered NOW so I can have everything here and ready as i dive in and get it done.

Yes, I do have knee pads and Naproxen !

Thank you for sharing your experiences.

BEST !

RWS

 

[Gallf1]

Hi:
Did mine last year in Allure Luxury (floating floor, except for hatches). Floor under carpet is too rough so I installed 3/8" plywood subfloor. Made paper templates of entire cabin floor so that I could planks easily. Tight fit against carpeted sides so floor doesnt move. Hatches trimmed out in aluminum angles.
Used old barn Red Oak for new companionway steps.
Good project to update boat!

 

[ttmott]

Hi:
Did mine last year in Allure Luxury (floating floor, except for hatches). Floor under carpet is too rough so I installed 3/8" plywood subfloor. Made paper templates of entire cabin floor so that I could planks easily. Tight fit against carpeted sides so floor doesnt move. Hatches trimmed out in aluminum angles.
Used old barn Red Oak for new companionway steps.
Good project to update boat!View attachment 131704 View attachment 131705 View attachment 131706 View attachment 131707 View attachment 131708

Without the carpet is the solon noisier? Engine noise, generator noise??

 

[Gallf1]

No noise difference....the planks have just enough texture to be "non-skid", and lets be honest floor carpets-ing trap a lot of smells so with the new floor it doesnt have that lingering spilled Pina Colada smell!

 

[Skybolt]

Take a look at Nautikflor https://www.nautikflor.com/ They sell it at Defender, ~$250 for 24 sq ft. This is what I am using and is my winter project.

If you go with a floating floor, put it down by gluing the center line plank run and leave the rest to float.

 

[Jus Cruisin]

Plasteak in mine. It was professionally installed.

 

[370Dancer]

I've done 5 boats, and a 36' multi level 5th wheel.
All of the boats were Allure with the glue strips, no click lock. This is because sometimes it's easier to lay the product "backwards" when dealing with all the curves, nooks and crannies. On the fiver, I decided to go with loose lay, mainly for the reason I just talked about (laying in any direction where needed, and because mine is a park model, which means it ain't moving from where it is. I used that material horizontally and vertically. Biggest gripe is the the matching quarter round and outside corners are about 5x the cost of the planks. All boats but one keep a relatively sane temp and humidity year round. The one in Huntsville, will get down to 40 and up to near 100. Still no lifting, and contraction/expansion is minimal.
Get the old carpet up with an oscillating tool. I've been able to get the salon up in one piece, which became the template for the Allure. On the 370, I built the template, laid all the allure in a large room, and then cut it to fit the salon. Finally, I took it apart up the middle so I could handle it, and cut the forward stateroom piece off where the door closes. That's the only piece of threshold I used to cover the seam.
For trim around the mid cabin step down, I used Flexible Millworks products, which is a stainable flexible trim with a wood grain texture. GREAT STUFF!!
I have shared this folder before. The 370 in pictures......
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i10ocn4j9bqftjx/AADXTtGT12fPgo9j1_B2dsC3a?dl=0
Here's the loose lay...
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/wsm0gw1g03aidhc8uvljm/h?dl=0&rlkey=1le65765hzijhyea3m6nkd3nt

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

OK

Got the flooring, trim carpet and have flexible stair treads ordered.

Going to mark the carpet "edge" with big magic markers and will attempt to remove the non factory carpet in the biggest sections possible to use as a template.

The plan is to remove all the carpet on the floor and sides, then install the new carpet "trim" on the sides and the vertical part of the steps - will glue in and screw in too.

I have ordered a couple of different contour tools.

Going to use a 12" chopsaw and jigsaw, both with a laminate blade. Got a smallish Milwaukee 18v router and a couple of different contour tools.

Here's the question:

What is the reason for the template?

With all these tools, I think if i do a chalkline/centerline, why can't i simply work out from the center?

Some have suggested that it's a good idea to use contact cement to glue down one row of the planking (center) and allow the rest to float.

So, please explain how/why that template is needed?

BEST !

RWS

 

[370Dancer]

In my case I created a template using scrim and built the floor in a large flat area. I did that so I wouldn't have to trim around the outside of the lay to cover imperfections of cutting. In other boats, houses, and RV, I laid as I went, as you are leaning towards. 2 paths to the same end.

 

[Gallf1]

When I did mine, I used the paper template I had made to get very accurate contour cuts so that when the vinyl plank is pressed up against the carpet side there is no gap. The are many many places on the cabin floor where a contour gauge is next to impossible to use.

Also...to cut the planks I used a utility knife with new blades as I was cutting the planks inside the cabin and I didnt want to mess of flying debris from power tools going everywhere (or constantly going up and down the stairs if you are cutting in the cockpit). You will find that a utility knife with new blades makes incredibly crisp and smooth cuts especially on curves.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

So,

use the spacers, or shove up tight against the carpet?

 

[Chris-380]

thanks for the pics

I have a few things I want to sort out, I think I am over thinking some of it

One of the issues I had was finding a trim for the step down in the mid cabin . Is this the style you used
https://flexiblemillwork.com/corner-mold.html

I've done 5 boats, and a 36' multi level 5th wheel.
All of the boats were Allure with the glue strips, no click lock. This is because sometimes it's easier to lay the product "backwards" when dealing with all the curves, nooks and crannies. On the fiver, I decided to go with loose lay, mainly for the reason I just talked about (laying in any direction where needed, and because mine is a park model, which means it ain't moving from where it is. I used that material horizontally and vertically. Biggest gripe is the the matching quarter round and outside corners are about 5x the cost of the planks. All boats but one keep a relatively sane temp and humidity year round. The one in Huntsville, will get down to 40 and up to near 100. Still no lifting, and contraction/expansion is minimal.
Get the old carpet up with an oscillating tool. I've been able to get the salon up in one piece, which became the template for the Allure. On the 370, I built the template, laid all the allure in a large room, and then cut it to fit the salon. Finally, I took it apart up the middle so I could handle it, and cut the forward stateroom piece off where the door closes. That's the only piece of threshold I used to cover the seam.
For trim around the mid cabin step down, I used Flexible Millworks products, which is a stainable flexible trim with a wood grain texture. GREAT STUFF!!
I have shared this folder before. The 370 in pictures......
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i10ocn4j9bqftjx/AADXTtGT12fPgo9j1_B2dsC3a?dl=0
Here's the loose lay...
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/wsm0gw1g03aidhc8uvljm/h?dl=0&rlkey=1le65765hzijhyea3m6nkd3nt

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

I ordered these:

Flexitions Stainable Flexible 1/4 Overlap Stair Nose 84" Item #112 | Flexitions

stainable

Planning to fit and attach with stainless screws.

after job is completed I'll remove them all, do some test stains, then stain them all then cover with a clear poly protection layer.

 

[Gallf1]

So,

use the spacers, or shove up tight against the carpet?

I shoved up against the carpet....but....not so hard that you crushed the carpet all the way to the wood. Shove it up tight so that when it expands when the AC is off it has room to "grow" a little and push further against the carpet.

 

[Gallf1]

thanks for the pics

I have a few things I want to sort out, I think I am over thinking some of it

One of the issues I had was finding a trim for the step down in the mid cabin . Is this the style you used
https://flexiblemillwork.com/corner-mold.html

Maybe more work...but....I laminated a piece of 1/2" Red Oak cut to fit for the horizontal section and then when I installed the vertical tongue and groove oak pieces I butted then up against the horizontal piece overhang.
Bulletproof and wont show any ripples like some flexible molding does.

BTW....the "ledge" to mount the trim get really skinny just aft of the step storage hatch.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Maybe more work...but....I laminated a piece of 1/2" Red Oak cut to fit for the horizontal section and then when I installed the vertical tongue and groove oak pieces I butted then up against the horizontal piece overhang.
Bulletproof and wont show any ripples like some flexible molding does.

BTW....the "ledge" to mount the trim get really skinny just aft of the step storage hatch.

what product did you use on the vertical side of the midcabin step?

 

[mrsrobinson]

Hi:
Did mine last year in Allure Luxury (floating floor, except for hatches). Floor under carpet is too rough so I installed 3/8" plywood subfloor. Made paper templates of entire cabin floor so that I could planks easily. Tight fit against carpeted sides so floor doesnt move. Hatches trimmed out in aluminum angles.
Used old barn Red Oak for new companionway steps.
Good project to update boat!View attachment 131704 View attachment 131705 View attachment 131706 View attachment 131707 View attachment 131708

Gorgeous, you have some mad skills.

 

[Gallf1]

what product did you use on the vertical side of the midcabin step?

My local Home Depot had some Tongue and Groove Red Oak flooring that was 1/2" think and 3" wide.
I ran them thru a planer down to 1/4" thick and routed some V shape lines along the entire length. Then the horizontal piece and the vertical pieces were sealed with polyurethane used for Bowling lanes.
I glued the vertical pieces with construction adhesive (the fiberglass is very rough and the adhesive levels out as you push each piece on)....the horizontal piece is screwed down and the screw holes have wooden plug to hide the screw head.

 

[Almightys]

Anybody do there interior in the luxury woven vinyl flooring?
Our office through that down in the break room and just finished doing the cockpit in it from Corinthian. Stuff looks nice

 

[Stee6043]

Fun stuff...following