Westerbeke 7.6 Injector pump leaking

dtfeld

Water Contrails
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Jun 5, 2016
5,617
Milton, GA
Boat Info
410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
Engines
Cat 3126 V-Drives
Been noticing a small amount of diesel wetting the top of the injector pump. Looks to be leaking from under the delivery valve. Gets worse under a heavier load. There is an o ring in there, so at 23-24 years old, maybe getting old/worn and in need of some service.

Anybody ever pull the delivery valves out for service, or should I pull the whole pump and either rebuild or replace?


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U
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Haven't done it myself, but it does look like you can remove the Delivery valve holder and check that top O Ring. Looks like the only likely candidate to be leaking as you describe it. When I was doing my injector work over the past few weeks, I was looking things over and tried to put a screwdriver to those Holder Stopper screws, and found they wouldn't budge. That would be the biggest challenge I think, yours look like mine in that they look pretty firmly corroded in place.

Looking at the service manual, take note of the first comment at the top about servicing vs. replacing...
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Thanks Kevin.

Yeah, I saw that comment. This may not be "absolutely necessary" just yet! Amount of fuel is very minimal, but I hate raw fuel in the bilge. I'll have to use a oil mat to keep it at bay until I can figure out how best to fix.

I've been googling around looking for part numbers, rebuild kits or a shop that can rebuild it. Sucks to have to replace the whole pump as opposed to a $1 o-ring. Its about $800-$900 online and Westerbeke wants double that. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good picture of the part number, but I believe this is a Denso 094500 style pump. Looks like there are many variations.

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I went through this two yrs ago. The hardest part is removing the fuel delivery tubes. Just make sure it is super clean before you pull the holder(s).
 
I was super worried about damaging the tubes when I removed the injectors, but they do have some give to them so you can bend them slightly without damage.

I agree with Orlando on keeping it all clean, I brought my shop vac with me when I reinstalled the injectors so I could vacuum out any bits of paint or debris that dropped in during reinstall. Despite being as careful as I could, it still happened. The paint that WB uses on everything flakes off easily and gets everywhere.

Could luck with it, are you able to source the O Rings? I don't see it on Westerbeke.com, only the $1,800+ (!) pump assembly.
 
I was super worried about damaging the tubes when I removed the injectors, but they do have some give to them so you can bend them slightly without damage.

I agree with Orlando on keeping it all clean, I brought my shop vac with me when I reinstalled the injectors so I could vacuum out any bits of paint or debris that dropped in during reinstall. Despite being as careful as I could, it still happened. The paint that WB uses on everything flakes off easily and gets everywhere.

Could luck with it, are you able to source the O Rings? I don't see it on Westerbeke.com, only the $1,800+ (!) pump assembly.
I can’t find anything but the whole pump so far.

Anybody have the oring part number or a substitute and a source?
 
I can’t find anything but the whole pump so far.

Anybody have the oring part number or a substitute and a source?

I'll look tomorrow, I had to buy from third party. A place in CT? that rebuilds the pumps.
 
Maybe these guys..

 
I found a local shop that can rebuild the pump and while I'm at it, going to have the injectors tested/cleaned.

Guy told me its a drop in pump, just need to disconnect the control rack, and it should pop out.

Timing should not need to be adjusted going back in with the same shim.

I hope its that easy.

 
Thank Orlando! I’ll call when I get home, see if they have the o-rings.

My biggest fear is as Kevin pointed out the hardware is sufficiently rusted/corroded as to make this more difficult that it should be. But I’m all for trying to replace the orings first. If all else fails, I’ll have it rebuilt.

If there a spec as to how to tighten down the hardware after the oring replaced?

I ordered new banjo seals and a few other pcs of hardware from Westerbeke so hopefully just a small project. Wasn’t really wanting to tear into the generator at the start of the season.
 
Thank Orlando! I’ll call when I get home, see if they have to o-rings.

My biggest fear is as Kevin pointed out the hardware is sufficiently rusted/corroded as to make this more difficult that it should be. But I’m all for trying to replace the orings first. If all else fails, I’ll have it rebuilt.

If there a spec as to how to tighten down the hardware after the oring replaced?

I ordered new banjo seals and a few other pcs of hardware from Westerbeke so hopefully just a small project. Wasn’t really wanting to tear into the generator at the start of the season.

Just use a small wire brush and clean it really well and use engine degreaser (gunk?) and it will be fine. But yes, clean is the name of the game with injector pumps. Also there is torque spec for the valve holder(s) that you need to follow. My pump is differ from yours in that it's a four injector pump, but I believe it's like 45ft/lbs. Also when removing the holder(s) be careful as the spring could still be loaded, so hold your finger on top while unthreading.
 
If anybody has a 7.6 and is able to get a picture of the side of the injection pump, please post it up. Trying to get some parts ordered, but without specifics, I cant get the correct ones coming. I took pictures, but unfortunately, I cant make out all the numbers/letters. Out of town till the week-end.

Thanks!
 
If anybody has a 7.6 and is able to get a picture of the side of the injection pump, please post it up. Trying to get some parts ordered, but without specifics, I cant get the correct ones coming. I took pictures, but unfortunately, I cant make out all the numbers/letters. Out of town till the week-end.

Thanks!
Is this what you are looking for?
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Is this what you are looking for?
View attachment 162621
Yup! Looking for a shot of the part# or if you have it written down.

I think it's a 094500? but there is another 4 digits I beleive...I can't make it out on my pic or yours (I'm on phone).
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K
I got a similar picture...but I can't make that out either. I appreciate posting it up.

I found the engine serial number so trying that route as well.

Worth a shot. Trying to go to the boat with parts in hand. We'll see.
 
In my travels looking for info on this pump, I was sent a copy of the parts manual for the 2001 Mitsubishi 3 cylinder industrial diesels L3A, L3C and L3E. There are about 30 sub variants. It shows all parts, but it’s hard to follow as I don’t know the exact engine model. Best guess is an L3E-61HMG?

Manual attached…


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Attachments

  • L3A-C-E Parts Book 98615-11920.pdf
    6.7 MB · Views: 12
If this is a L3E-61HMG, it’s a type F64…

So Pump is part# MM436649. Or a 094500-4510. Unfortunately that doesn’t seem to match up with what’s on the generator…part number seems to have a 2 stamped in it…

However, seems all of these pumps have a common o-ring part #90801-10130.


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Confirmed the pump part number. 094500 4510 12U. Not sure if the 12U is important yet...

Now to get the seals/orings.

Digging the pump out gets pretty involved...looks like in addition to the fuel lines and shutoff rack, the intake manifold and wiring harness has to come out or be moved. Hopefully I can leave that for a later date.
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