Wetsanding 101

Jan 4, 2009
63
Lake Ouachita, AR.
Boat Info
Canoe
Engines
Self-Propelled
I know we have a lot of experts on the board, so I'm sure everyone can tell us what's worked for them.

We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each may require different grits to obtain the optimum shine.

I will give some examples of what I use to do the job.

Wetsanding Grit's 2000, 1500, 1200, 1000 and maybe 600-800(experienced) if it's that bad. (Orielly's/Autozone)
You need a sanding block/pad.(Orielly's/Autozone)
You need a small bucket for water.
You need a Rotary buffer with a wool pad.(Harbor Freight)
You need a mild washing solution.(Dawn,etc...)
You need some clean Terry cloth towels.
My results are based on using my Leverage Oxidation Remover & Polish. (CSR Store)

I always recommend doing a small area before tackling the whole boat.(5X5 area)

Make sure the surface is clean. Start with the wet 1500 on the block/pad. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, let the paper do its job. Go in the same direction with maybe 10-15 strokes keeping the paper wet(you will see it removing the oxidation immediately), follow up with the 2000 grit in the same manor then wash the surface off. Then you can take a towel and dry the surface. From there you need to buff that area with my Oxidation Remover then wipe down with a damp towel and allow to dry. Follow up with my Leverage Polish, Cleaner & UV Protectant and you're done.

Remember that some areas of your boat maybe more oxidized than others, so you may need 1000 grit for the transom and only 1500 for the bow for example.

I always start with a less abrasive grit. The 1500 is mild and is least likely for any mistakes while testing. Remember to also finish with 2000 grit before buffing. I would do that small area and see if you get the results with the 1500. If the finish isn't perfect then move down to 1200 and then 1000 if needed.

I know this is somewhat of a quick list that might not address all of the questions, so ask away.

Please be sure to read the 1st Page of the "How I use Leverage Polish & Oxidation Remover" thread. It explains my buffing and ploshing techniques plus the Harbor Freight Buffer link.

BTW, My oxidation remover will also remove light scratches and 1000 grit sand marks.
 
Never done this on a boat, but have on auto paint.

One (simple) trick is to pre-cut your sandpaper to fit the block being used. I recommend a rubber block. Have one or two pieces pre-soaking in your water solution while you are working on one area (just a few drops of Dawn in a bucket is all you need). This softens the paper so you don't have any sharp edges.

As Donnie says, keep it wet. Keep dipping your block in the bucket. After it dries, it should feel very smooth if done right. Another thing some people recommend is a back and forth motion. Some people tend to get overly aggressive when sanding in a circular motion. Light touch only, you should not use a lot of "muscle" for this.
 
Used some of the OR today on our 1977....
I think this has been let go for years... I used the buffer until the OR was no longer visible but had areas of the boat after wiping down still look like they absorbed the color of the OR.
After wiping down I noiced the boat when looking on an angle doesn't look smooth it still has a splotchy look. I'm guessing based on this I need to wet sand. Thoughts?
 
Used some of the OR today on our 1977....
I think this has been let go for years... I used the buffer until the OR was no longer visible but had areas of the boat after wiping down still look like they absorbed the color of the OR.
After wiping down I noiced the boat when looking on an angle doesn't look smooth it still has a splotchy look. I'm guessing based on this I need to wet sand. Thoughts?

Yep.

I run into it occasionally. Sometimes the surface is so oxidized that buffing just isn't enough.

Thanks for adding the info Chris! Yes, dip the paper in soapy water...:grin:
 

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