Which anchor to buy....

tdappleman

Active Member
Dec 17, 2007
1,608
Kill Devil Hills, NC
Boat Info
1996 270 Sundancer
Engines
New twin 4.3's - 235hp each with Alpha 1 Gen 2 Drives
When I purchased my 270, it came with a Seachoice fluke style anchor. I'm not sure exactly how this happened but the shaft is slightly bent so the flukes do not move freely. I don't want to try and bend it back as it's not that good of an anchor anyway. So... I'm now in the market for a new anchor and the question for everyone is what to buy.

In my area I have either mud or fairly loose sand and typically shallow conditions (7-15ft) where I will usually anchor. I've only had fluke style anchors in the past but the Delta Fast Set caught my attention since it doesn't have the moving parts. From what I could find on searches it looks like to be a good anchor but it was recommended to get as heavy as possible.

Suggestions or thoughts? Should I stick with a fluke style or change? This will most likely stay stored in the anchor locker vs. being kept on the bow pulpit if that makes any difference.
 
First, I think you can safely bend the fluke back if it is not bent too far. Maybe not worth the risk if you spend a lot of time anchored. I switched from a fluke style to a claw anchor and am much happier. They hold pretty well in the mud and great in the sand. I find that they set easier too. I have the 22lb. one on west marine's site
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...true&storeNum=5&subdeptNum=11206&classNum=212
 
I use a plow. I'm in a mud bottom lake and have had good luck in the sand on the coast. I have a small danforth for my stern anchor.
 
I use a danforth for my stern also. In fact, it is the old bow anchor. Maybe that would be a good way to get more use out of your current bent one.
 
If you are hauling it yourself to store in the anchor locker. I would get a Fortress. They hold well (when used with a good amount of chain) and are comparatively light.

If your windlass will do the work, I'd get a plow or claw style. The lack of moving parts makes one less possibilty for fouling.

I have used all three types in mud, sand, gravel, and rock with very good results. Rock is the hardest for all, especially the Fortress.
 
Thanks for the suggestions so far! I like the idea of trying to bend the original and using it for a stern anchor as my current one is a bit small for my liking. I will be hauling it myself (or my wife in certain conditions) so weight is a concern. Will a claw or plow be too difficult to handle by hand (without windless that is) and will it stow in the locker?
 
Not sure how big your locker is, so I don't know what will fit.

If you are hauling by hand, I'd highly recommend the Fortress.
 
I was interested in getting a Rocna anchor after reading a bunch of reviews but the price of admission was a bit steep. I ended up getting the Manson Supreme which is a Rocna knock off. I couldn't have been more disappointed.

We boat in the Kanawha River which has a mud or sand bottom in typically 14 - 18 feet of water. I never got the Manson to hold on the first try. It was also quite a bit heavier than Fortress anchor I took off the boat.

To make a long story short I took the Manson off and returned it and put the Fortress back on. I don't know if the Rocna would perform any better - but I definitely wouldn't go the Manson route again.
 
I would go with a guardian over a fortress simply because of cost. The Fortress is a little lighter. The fortress and guardian both can easily be disassembled to store in the stern locker and they have probably the greatest holding power per pound of anchor weight of other choices given what you are anchoring in.

http://www.fortressanchors.com/guardian_anchors.html

Personally I would heat and straighten your current fluke style (or at least keep it as a secondary anchor which is a good idea to have anyway).

John
 
weight of the anchor is not an issue with one of these. I have used one when fishing over wrecks to get my anchor free. Once free it floats the anchor and makes it easy to retrieve by hand.

www.savvyboater.com/p-42-anchor-ring-anchor-retriever.aspx

I would rather just pull one by had then deal with all it takes to use a ring and bouy, if it is less than 50 feet.

Also, I think the claw anchor is heavier but holds better. I guess it's personal prefrence, but I would not get an anchor that does not hold as well to save 10 pounds. If your wife is going to be pulling it up though, it may make enough of a difference. The fortress is 6lbs and the claw is 16, or the frotress is 11lbs and the claw is 22, depending on whether or not you get an over-sized one.
 
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I would rather just pull one by had then deal with all it takes to use a ring and bouy, if it is less than 50 feet.

Also, I think the claw anchor is heavier but holds better. I guess it's personal prefrence, but I would not get an anchor that does not hold as well to save 10 pounds. If your wife is going to be pulling it up though, it may make enough of a difference. The fortress is 6lbs and the claw is 16, or the frotress is 11lbs and the claw is 22, depending on whether or not you get an over-sized one.

I would guess you've never used one. it takes about 5 seconds to attach and makes it really easy for the admiral to pull in rare as it is that she's out with me when it was necessary.
 
Positively without a doubt do not buy the POS Chene Anchor that claims to do great things. I bought the biggest one Bass Pro offered after reading all of great reviews it got. It worked perfectly if I was trolling for sharks, three seperate 30 min trials in different bottoms I never got it to stick once. It is not even worth using as a spare.
 
I would guess you've never used one. it takes about 5 seconds to attach and makes it really easy for the admiral to pull in rare as it is that she's out with me when it was necessary.

you're right, i havent used one. it looks like a lot of farting around, but maybe it goes easier than i thought.
 
Thanks everyone for the input - I really appreciate it. I think I'm going to try and heat and bend my current one and see how it does. When I get some free time this weekend I'll head down to WM and see what they have in stock. Their web site only has the aluminum Fortress in stock which looks nice but is pretty expensive so maybe the store will have a different selection.
 
weight of the anchor is not an issue with one of these. I have used one when fishing over wrecks to get my anchor free. Once free it floats the anchor and makes it easy to retrieve by hand.

www.savvyboater.com/p-42-anchor-ring-anchor-retriever.aspx

The site shows a picture describing how to use it if you click on the little "3" under the picture.

The picture looks like the boat is moving away from the anchor, and the chain (product description says it is used for chain rodes only) is running from the bow all the way along, and in contact with, the side of the boat. It also shows the anchor ending up behind the boat. Am I seeing that correctly?

Might be OK for a fishing boat, but there is no way that I am going to let a chain rode rub against my gel coat, OR having the anchor and its chain rode floating behind my boat. One wrong move of the wheel or throttle and you could do a lot of damage.

How embarassing would it be to return tot he dock and have to tell your buddies that you killed your props running over your own chain. No thank you. :smt009
 
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Travis I'd give you my Fortress if you come get it. It's a FX-7.

I bought a real danforth, hi tensile. Works better than anything else I've tried. It's even the punny 5 lb jobber, and I cut the extentions on the back off! Works great for me. Looks way to small for the boat, but...

I tried the hydro bubble (plow) and it works well in sand, and thin mud, but grass will fowl it every time. I assume the Delta plow will do the same.

To each their own, that's why there are so many types out there. Not one will hold in all conditions. So I carry three types.
 

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