Anyone else here own an electric Duffy Boat? My auction journey...

[Shoyrtt]

Toilet bowl cleaner (The Works) has been reformulated, I tried it last spring and it did nothing. After reading the ingredients and googling I found that it was done to be “environmentally safer”. However, you can get similar whitening results with oxalic acid (mix your own or buy Starbrite hull brightener). Oxalic acid powder can be bought locally or on Amazon, it’s used in varying concentrations for brick and patio cleaning as well. Spray it on, wait, then scrub. It’s safe to use on your concrete and painted trailers, and won’t kill landscaping if mixed correctly. It won’t remove calcified deposits, you’ll need the hull cleaner for that but that’s the nasty stuff. It will etch your concrete, paint, and everything else but it will clean the calcified deposits off the bottom of the hull. Cover the ground with plastic, use a respirator, or hire it done by a boat yard later.

How do you mix the oxalic powder?

 

[Shoyrtt]

Another update on the Duffy project. I removed the hull stripe and the Duffy lettering and cut and buffed the boat above the water line. I also started sanding the bottom to prep for paint. If you noticed, the prior owner must have hit something hard with the bow as the leading edge on all four of the pontoons have been damaged and repaired with fiberglass. The repair to the port side pontoon was not done correctly and I discovered a thumb sized hole. Hauled out the six, Interstate 210 amp hour batteries finally and tested them. Three are definitely dead. I'm not sure if I am going to stay with a traditional battery or switch up to lithium. I made the change on my Sea Ray to Battle Born lithium batteries a few years ago and love them. Finally, I have the parts on order to modify the trailer in the next few weeks. Next update will be on 1-29.

 

[Nick 55]

How do you mix the oxalic powder?

3 tablespoons of powder to a gallon of water. Mix thoroughly, apply by using a spray bottle.

 

[Shoyrtt]

I'm a little late on the promised update. Following Nick's advice, I picked up some oxalic acid which worked great eating up the scum below the water line and lifting the grease in the cockpit. I also started working on the modifications to the trailer. I need to weld up a couple of support brackets on the rear of the bunks, get them carpeted, reconfigure the trailer lights and come up with a stop for the bow. More updates to come.
The acid at work:

After pressure washing and sanding:

 

[Shoyrtt]

Here is the trailer as sits today in the Southern California "atmospheric river"

 

[Shoyrtt]

Here is my weekly update on the Dirty Thirty Duffy M160 project. I was able to finish up the trailer by carpeting the bunks, fabricating the aft mounts, relocating and wiring all of the lights and I also had some extra white Sea Dek material that I used on the fenders and in between the bunks to protect the hull from the galvanized metal. The the 7:30 am lighting isn't great in these photos but you can see the test fit. The one item I forgot to address is to add some protection for the skeg, just forward of the power rudder. I don't want it to strike the crossmember if the boat is too far forward on the trailer. I am concerned the drive unit might be too low so I might need to raise the bunks. Next up will be the small fiberglass repairs and then the bottom paint.

 

[370Dancer]

So, is this a quadratoon? Gonna be a sweet cocktail cruiser.......

 

[Nick 55]

Sweet progress. I’d recommend you look at trailer setups for inboard boats to give you an idea of prop/rudder guards. And the bow stop will be critical to make sure you don’t run up too far on the trailer. It will likely need to be beefier than you can imagine to hold the boat more securely if you get rear ended. I’d me interested to see how the boat sits on the trailer before throwing more theories out there.

 

[Shoyrtt]

Sweet progress. I’d recommend you look at trailer setups for inboard boats to give you an idea of prop/rudder guards. And the bow stop will be critical to make sure you don’t run up too far on the trailer. It will likely need to be beefier than you can imagine to hold the boat more securely if you get rear ended. I’d me interested to see how the boat sits on the trailer before throwing more theories out there.

I posted my progress on a Duffy Boat owners page on FB and got similar advice. The boat weighs just under 3,000 pounds so was concerned about it being too high on a single axle trailer. A Duffy Sportscat owner posted this picture and said he hasn’t had any trouble with it being top heavy.

[Edit] And another Sportscat that is up for sale for 27K. I think the power rudder on this model is deeper than on my boat. Once I finish the bottom paint and get it on the trailer, I will reassess either raising the bunks and/or coming up with some sort of protection for the drive unit.

 

[Shoyrtt]

Here is another update on the "Dirty Thirty" M-160 project. I was able to glass in a couple of areas on the leading edges of the hulls that were not done correctly in the past. I then used some filler to smooth things out before I prime and and paint. I also pulled off one of the seven rectangular "Sea-Dog" vents. The center vent on the stern had two holes drilled underneath it. With the vent removed, I was able to glass the backside so that I can repair it soon. I ordered all 11 of the "Sea-Dog" vents from Fisheries Supply and the plan is to also replace the two "Beckson" 3" vents on the stern. Finally, I removed the rub rail and 100+ screws that was holding it in place. The question is what should I use to fill the old screw holes from the rub rail? I was thinking some 3M 5200 should do the trick.

Sea-Dog Vent

Beckson Vent

Rub rail holes:

 

[Shoyrtt]

I did some more work on the "Dirty Thirty" project this weekend. After some more prep, I put on just under two gallons of epoxy primer and barrier paint and then the same amount of antifouling paint from Total Boat. As you can see I adjusted the water line based on the evidence I had in the past this boat sat lower in the stern. Next up is to prep and paint the remaining gelcoat black below the rub rail and then get it on the trailer for the pros to do the surrey top and the gelcoat above the rub rail.
https://www.totalboat.com/collections/paint/products/totalprotect-epoxy-barrier-coat-primer
https://www.totalboat.com/collections/paint/products/spartan-multi-season-antifouling-paint

 

[Nick 55]

I missed your last update. You’re making progress! You can use 5200 to fill the holes, or you can mix epoxy with some glass beads and inject it into the holes using a large syringe (no needle). Scrape smooth and sand as needed. As for the rub rail, I got some free Taco Marine samples from I think Nautic Expo last year for an old boat to try and match up.

 

[Shoyrtt]

Here is another update on my M-160 project the "Dirty Thirty". I got a coat of paint on the hull above the bottom paint to finish for now my work. I also got the boat on the trailer for the first time and towed it home on surface streets. I had the boat a little too far forward on the trailer, with a bit too much tongue weight on the 15 mile trip. I ended up sliding it back a foot or so which should help. Next stop is the shipyard this Saturday where the professionals will do the work above the rub rail with some fiberglass and gel coat repairs along with a new surrey top frame, canvas and glass.

 

[wyrman]

What a cool project.

 

[Shoyrtt]

What a cool project.

It has been a lot work, but its nice to see it start coming together. I got some good news today that Duffy has reintroduced this model to their 2024 lineup as the "16' Cat". It looks like the top is no longer rounded and the helm has been modernized. I think I will copy some of the new design elements into my boat. I had some fun with MS Paint to get an idea.
Here is the 2024 model:

And maybe what our boat might look like :

 

[highslice]

Here is another update on my M-160 project the "Dirty Thirty". I got a coat of paint on the hull above the bottom paint to finish for now my work. I also got the boat on the trailer for the first time and towed it home on surface streets. I had the boat a little too far forward on the trailer, with a bit too much tongue weight on the 15 mile trip. I ended up sliding it back a foot or so which should help. Next stop is the shipyard this Saturday where the professionals will do the work above the rub rail with some fiberglass and gel coat repairs along with a new surrey top frame, canvas and glass.
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Have you had a chance to put it in the water yet? Maybe I missed this in an earlier update, just wondering if you have had a chance to run the electric motor.

 

[Nick 55]

He’s getting it all prettied up so he can address the motor later. He’s gonna screw some plywood to the transom for a Honda generator and a trolling motor.


Oops, wrong thread…. Sorry!

 

[Shoyrtt]

Have you had a chance to put it in the water yet? Maybe I missed this in an earlier update, just wondering if you have had a chance to run the electric motor.

Not yet on both counts. The shipyard I am taking it to had a small window to get it in for the work on the gelcoat and the top. While it is there, I am planning on taking the upholstery to my local shop. When it is done at the shipyard, I'd like to upgrade to lithium batteries which probably means a new inverter/charger from Victron and then I can test the motor. If the motor is junk, there is a shop here in SoCal that can rebuild it fairly quickly. If all of the stars align, I hope to float it in 60-90 days.

 

[Shoyrtt]

He’s getting it all prettied up so he can address the motor later. He’s gonna screw some plywood to the transom for a Honda generator and a trolling motor.


Oops, wrong thread…. Sorry!

I was thinking a set of oars might do it!

 

[highslice]

Not yet on both counts. The shipyard I am taking it to had a small window to get it in for the work on the gelcoat and the top. While it is there, I am planning on taking the upholstery to my local shop. When it is done at the shipyard, I'd like to upgrade to lithium batteries which probably means a new inverter/charger from Victron and then I can test the motor. If the motor is junk, there is a shop here in SoCal that can rebuild it fairly quickly. If all of the stars align, I hope to float it in 60-90 days.

Well it's looking good. My first thought when you started the thread was "who would want one of those". But now I understand the draw and have enjoyed watching your progress and process.