Cutless Bearing replacement

Here's the follow-up: As a DIY'er, I usually haul the boat every 12-14 months and I do the bottom paint, hull waxing, zincs, and the usual bottom maintenance <I find it rewarding, and I have been called cheap>. I last hauled the boat in Jan '06, and the bottom paint was still in good shape, but I decided to haul it, do my usual bottom maintenance and fix the cutless bearings, plus I need to have the boat hauled for an insurance survey anyway <that's another topic>.

The DIY yard where I usually go, told me that had a press for the cutless bearings, but after I got there, they didn't have one. All was going well until that point. Props off, set screws out, etc. They said they would get one, but it would take a few days. I called around as well, but the best that could be found was a mechanic with a press that would come over and R&I the cutless bearings for $300. I already had the new bearings. This is a story all by itself. I called around to get the bearings and was quoted prices from $85 to $300 each. I found them from the strunt manufacturer for $18 each <another reason I do my own work>.

The press guy comes over and boom, in 2 hours both were done. No runs, no drips, no errors. He has the same press NeverMonday has. While $6K seems high, it is a stout piece of equipment and did the job easily. It is the right tool for the job.

I finished the boat Sat morning and launched at noon. Boat ran great and is back at the home dock.

My project to do all the work <2 coats of bottom paint, waxing, zincs, cutless bearings, prop checks, etc> took 3 days. The bill for the yard, mechanic, parts, supplies was $1,325 <have you seen the price of bottom paint lately?>. If you compare that with what I would have paid for someone else to do the bearings, bottom paint, detail the boat, zincs, props, etc. it was worth it, plus I needed to haul the boat anyway for the insurance survey

Larry
 
LMBoat, off topic but....

What wax do you use on the hull? Do you compound first?

We wax the hull once a year, no compounding as it seems to hold up well. We compound and wax the topsides 3-4 times a year. Bottom is painted every other year. Fresh water use though, not in a covered slip.
 
mrsrobinson said:
LMBoat, off topic but....

What wax do you use on the hull? Do you compound first?

We wax the hull once a year, no compounding as it seems to hold up well. We compound and wax the topsides 3-4 times a year. Bottom is painted every other year. Fresh water use though, not in a covered slip.

Hee Greg,

Also off topic but... how about your boat????

Peter
 
mrsrobinson said:
What about it? BTW, someone at our marina just purchased a 360, beautiful boat.

Thanks, I am very happy with her!!

Tell him about Csr than we can chat about the 360.

I am wondering how the status is from your problem with loosing antifreeze....

Or did I miss something??

Peter
 
Re waxing: I need to figure out how to post pics here. I did take a few. I have been using 3M Finesse It as the polish and this year I tried the new 3M Scotchguard wax. I have tried many different ones and have not really be impressed (3M, Fleetwax, Collinite, etc). They all shine well, it's just how long they last <or don't last>. And the more I wax, the more black streaks I get, so I thought I would try this one. Finesse It really works great. As it is a polish and contains some abrasives, I wonder what it will do to my gelcoat long term. Anyone know?

I applied and polished out the Finesse It with my Milwaukee buffer w/ 3M superbuff pad <that's a one step process>. I applied the wax by hand and buffed with the buffer. I did 2 coats of wax. It looked really good. Hopefully it will last longer the the 7-10 days I normally get.
 
Off topic again, just a quickie.

LMboat---what kind of bottom paint, and how long does it last?
 
RonF,

First off, Capt Ron is our family's favorite movie. We can quote it line for line. We've probably watched it together 20 times. The DVD is always on the boat. We have a son and a daughter and on some trips we have turned down the sound and each of us says the lines for their respective character. I'll admit, it's not Casablanca, but that movie is part of our children's growing up and boating. But I digress.....

Back to the topic at hand, bottom paint. I have been using Trinadad Ultra <not the SR>. I had to pay $214 a gallon for it this time. I use 2 coats <about a gallon and 1/2 of paint, I save the leftover 1/2 gallon for next time>. It lasts me about 14-18 months on the hull. Running gear about half that. After that time, I'm using my mask and snorkle more.
 
PMvdb395DA, antifreeze in the oil, combustion leak test shows exhaust gases in the cooling system. Shop that installed the engines comes out tomorrow to do a cooling system pressure test, cold and hot, and cylinder compression tests. I hope to know something by this time tomorrow.
 
LMBoat, on December 18th you said "I called around to get the bearings and was quoted prices from $85 to $300 each. I found them from the strut manufacturer for $18 each."
I also have a 330 DA. Would you please share some more info? What are the specs for the bearings? Who do we contact?
I try very hard not to just drop my wallet on the counter at SR or West. Many thanks, this thread has been a great read. JS
 
bliss said:
LMBoat, on December 18th you said "I called around to get the bearings and was quoted prices from $85 to $300 each. I found them from the strut manufacturer for $18 each."
I also have a 330 DA. Would you please share some more info? What are the specs for the bearings? Who do we contact?
I try very hard not to just drop my wallet on the counter at SR or West. Many thanks, this thread has been a great read. JS

I echo JS's question about sharing the info on the specs for your bearing and where to contact to purchase. Thanks in advance.
 
Guys,

I posted this a week or so ago. Not sure what happened. I called Searay and asked them for the specific measurements on the strut so I could order the correct bearing. The gave me the info for the orginal stut manifacturer and suggested I contact them. It is Algonac Casting Products in Michigan. <I don't have the specific info handy, I'm traveling for the holidays> I called them and asked for details, and I just asked if I could by the bearings from the directly. They agreed to do so. The bearing part numbers are the names of fish. <I forgot mine>.

Hope this helps

Larry
 
I know this is a post from 2006, but a quick update on cutless bearing replacement sources...

After seeing your old post Larry (by using the search option for "cutless") and finding most internet sources for my bearings to cost approx $100, I decided to call Algonac Casting Products. They had the proper bearings in stock (a Morse "Flatfish" 1.5"x2.0"x6") and they reluctantly agreed to sell them to me for $29.98 each. They don't normally sell bearings, but install them on their newly manufactured struts to fill boat manufacturers orders. I asked if they could have a pair ready for pick up later today and drove the 30 minutes. No problem - $60 cash and they were happy. New in the boxes and a great price!!

Thanks Larry for the tip! :grin:

Now, to complete the manufacture of the tool needed to press the old bearing out and the new bearing in (while the shaft is still in place)... getting closer, but lots of time till spring!

The guy in the storage building still says he prefers to R/R the shaft, but I'd rather not! I'll try this method first... :huh:
 
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I've done a few clients in the water using my prop removal tool and old cutlass bearings split in half with the rubber removed and hose clamps to keep them in place ... worked great!!!

Its the ones where the retaining screws are seized or the heads are stripped that require the haul-out.

$6000 !!! I have some swamp land for sale in the middle of the everglades ... yadda yadda yadda ... yeah I know the tool you have ... it's funny watching the boatyards pull their overpriced toys out to do something so simple. But then again I don't rob people just because they own a boat.

It's AMAZING what some boatyards get away with!!!!
 

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