Engine Room Resto.

Lugnutz

Member
Aug 3, 2009
97
Tacoma, Washington
Boat Info
300 Sedan bridge
Engines
Twin GM 350 Merc's
For those that were asking for a thread, I thought I would start one for the cleanup of the engine room.

A little bit of history on the boat. It’s a 1985 Searay 300 Sedan Bridge with twin Mercruiser/GM 350’s and V-drive transmissions. The boat is new to us as of the fall (Sept/Oct) of last year. So, it’s a new adventure for us.

The interior/exterior was pretty clean and was kept up but the engine room was on the dirty side. After spending some time on it now, it appears to me that the prior owners did all the interior and exterior cosmetic stuff but had a few different shops do any mechanical work to it. I have seen some of their handy work and receipts for what they charged and I will fix what they did or didn’t do as it goes back together.

The two biggest issues at this point and what started the project are all four seacocks are frozen in the open position and the starboard transmission output shaft seal leaks. There is very limited room to get to them let alone repair/replace them. As I figured and based on the advice from many on this forum, it was a no brainer to pull the engines out. I knew I would find more issues that needed addressed as we went along and have not been disappointed.

I have a couple of friends and a wonderful girlfriend that are helping with the project and we are hoping to have it done by the middle of July as long as there are no significant surprises. As a side note, I am not a professional and I don’t know everything. If you see anything that is done wrong or could be done better or something I missed please speak up.

Let’s start with a picture with the engines in before the removal. At this point, both engines are running sweet and we have discovered the oil leak on the transmission and a few other things for the to-do list.

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The water bottle shows limited room between the engines for those that don’t know.

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Seized and limited room to get to the seacock.

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Looks like somebody attached the ground wire to the drain plug. Actually, all of them were done this way.

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Can’t see the dripping but look lower left, that’s all trans fluid in the bilge.

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Engines pulled out. You can see the mess that needs to get cleaned up.

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Seized Gen set seacock. If you look close you can see the crack in the hose. There are actually many cracks in the hose and the amazing one was is it was cracked through between the hose clamps. The clamps were hardly tight and hose pulled right off without any effort. And the last picture, it’s a 1” hose and two clamps are used to draw it down on a ¾’ nipple. Now remember, the seacock is seized in the open position. When I removed the sea-strainer there was grass and seaweed in the filter so the Genset was used last summer. Yikes!

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Here’s one that shows how bad the transmission leak was. The first picture was taken last Monday night and the following picture was taken on the following Thursday morning.

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The prop shaft couplers were rusted and corroded so bad that I had to use a sawzall to cut the bolts and we used a lil bit of heat and a puller to get them to slide off.

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This is where we are now. I got the couplers and stuffing boxes out this afternoon and we started cleaning the bilge. I have the Admiral working her magic with the oily mess. We used kitty litter to soak up all the oil and mixed Dawn dish soap and Tide with water in a sprayer and its cutting right through the oily mess. She was not happy about me taking the picture of her being all dirty but she has been pretty helpful with everything so far.

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I will post more info and pictures as I get more done.

On a side note, how would you guys remove these seacocks? I believe they are the Spartan brand valves and more than likely are original. There are two wood screws that hold it to the bottom and my guess is that it is screwed to the through hull fitting that is attached to the bottom as in the third picture. There is no room to get a wrench in there and putting a pipe wrench on the top just oblongs the hose opening.

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Looks like quite a challenge, but it will be great when its done. Nice to see people taking care of the classic. Those grounding wires you talk about are actually bonding wires, they need to be there.
 
As stated above the bonding wires need to be reattached. Wow I don't know how you would separate that other then heating it some but be careful to not damage the fiberglass and cause yourself more work. An added cleaner that I used in a bad bilge was the works toilet bowl cleaner to remove rust stains and such. Make sure you wear your PPE and rinse it well. Don't get it on any metal objects because it is corrosive. I would also do both seals since you have them out. If one went the other probably isnt far behind. Good luck with the project.
 
on the side of the seacock their is a nut. see if you can lossen it. once its lose you can than operate the valve
 
Wow - nice to see older boats being restored / cared for. +2 on the green bonding wires, everything metal that goes through the hull and touches seawater should be bonded to gether and tied to your anodes (usally a big block on the outside of the transom). One other observation, looks like the manifolds / risers on the STB engine have been replaced, but not the Port engine - they look to be a different brand riser. Maybe good idea to find out why one engine was done and not the other.
 
The bonding wires, as a habit, I often call grounding wires. I am aware of the function just have a habit of calling them grounding wires and, it’s also easier to use the word grounding with people that are not familiar with it.

What I was referring to is that while looking for info on the brand of Seacock’s I found a link that specifies that the bonding wires are not suppose to be attached to the drain screws. When I first saw them attached at that location I also thought that’s where they were supposed to be too, but they are supposed to be attached to the base of the seacocks.

Take a look here for more info. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tapered_cone_seacocks

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The Seacocks have to come out to be serviced or replaced. I can loosen the nuts on the side but, because there is no room between the stringers, there is no way to get the guts out of the valve body to service them.

The manifolds were replaced on the port engine in 2009/10 when a new engine was put it by the previous owner. I just replaced the risers on the starboard engine a few weeks ago to solve a heat issue. The engines are fresh water cooled.
 
Lugnutz where are you doing the work...? I'm here in the Tacoma/Federal Way area and we keep our boat @ the Hylebos Marina.
 
Lugnutz where are you doing the work...? I'm here in the Tacoma/Federal Way area and we keep our boat @ the Hylebos Marina.

We are doing the work at my house in Tacoma, and have a slip at the Narrows Marina. Will have to give you a shout when it's back in the water. :smt001
 
You need a steam cleaner, not a hot water, not an electric, but a kerosene\diesel heating type. No need for high pressure low throttle will do most of that crud will melt off. Follow up with some elbow action....
 
My compliments to the Admiral! She's a keeper if she's willing to crawl in there and help while your skills are put to work doing other things! I hope it goes together quickly and I wish I could drive over to help! It's very similar to my boat and I would learn a lot in the process! Hope to see you two on the water in late July!
 
Since you are going to replace the through hulls anyway, what would happen if you got in there with a sawzall and just cut them off as close to the fiberglass as possible.

And I agree....the Admiral looks cute even with dirt on her face.
 
Just a quick update.

While I am waiting on parts for the engine and trans I dug into the bilge issues today.
I got three of the four seacocks out. I made a tool and surprisingly they came out pretty simple with a little convincing.

I picked up a piece of 18”x 2 ½ x 2 ½ inside diameter square tubing from the local metal yard and cut a couple of slots in it to make a spanner socket. It’s crude but it did the job. I put a wrench on the top with a long bar, had a friend pull on the bar and I held the tubing upright and they spun right out.

After inspecting it, I discovered that the nipple only sticks through the floor ¼” and it threads into the seacock 3 to 4 threads. There was no pipe sealant of any kind on the threads and there was old clear silicone somewhat under and around the outside base. It’s been there a long while and I doubt it was sealing anything if it was leaking.

Looking in the bottom of the seacocks there is easily another 1/4” of thread that is available to thread into. I measured the depth of the threaded part on the through hull and it measures a little over 2”. I will have to look and see if I can find a longer through hull fitting.

Does anybody have a favorite place they get through hull fittings from that has a large variety of hardware?

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Nice job on the tool! I would think that there should be more thread to go into the seacock as well, that just looks too short to me. I have no idea on where to get them but an internet search should do the trick. BOE, Jamestown, WM would be great places to start.
 
I did my 87 sedan bridge a few years ago. I will try sending some pics, if it does not post you could Email me at southside@eastlink.ca and I will send them. I did a lot of work on the boat and it turn out quite nice. Sold it and moved up to a 39 sedan sportfish from the lakes. Don
 
Hamilton Marine has a good selection. Sells to a lot of commercial users.
 
Were I you, I would were percussion sound the stringers/bulkheads and hit them with a moisture meter.

Also investigate putting an epoxy barrier coat down in the bilge to make sure water doesn't go where it shouldn't go. Do you have a solid FRP hull below the waterline or is it cored?

My 1984 Seadancer (predecessor to your boat) has those same seacocks, and while they are usually seen as better, they do like to leak. I think mine need to be rebuilt. Sometimes, giving them a good whack with a wrench or a big pair of channel-lock pliers or vice grips or a dead-blow hammer will free them if they are frozen.
 
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Also they need to be lubricated. Shoot some grease into the grease ports.

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk
 

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