First time buffer here...stupid question

[GrimmSpeed]

First time I've done any buffing with a machine(makita rotary) today and I had two different guys in the marina tell me two different ways of polishing. My hull is pretty clean with no oxidation so i'm just using the starbrite polish w/ PTEF and that is all. My question is application related, do i #1) squeeze the polish onto a rag and spread it around and then go to town with the makita(while the polish is still wet...meaning right after i put the polish on the hull with the rag) and then use a clean rag to clean up the haze or do I #2) squeeze the polish onto a rag and then cover the section of hull with the rag, let it dry completely, and then use the makita to buff off the haze?


So simply stated, do i use the makita when the polish is wet or wait till the polish is dry and then use the makita?


Done question I know, but I'm new to using a machine.


Thank you

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

The idea is to apply the product to the surface either by hand or machine, working it onto the surface to fully coat the area and leaving to dry to a haze. The second step is to remove the dried product and buff to a shine, again either by hand or machine. Some prefer to do both the application and buff by hand, but I am comfortable using the benefits of a machine for both. Use different cloths or machine pads for each step.

 

[tbirdvet]

I use the same polish and apply by hand using a small pad, let dry then buff with machine. I only apply by hand because it is more controllable and not as messy but the choice is yours.

 

[GrimmSpeed]

Great, thank you guys.

 

[Alegria]

I used that same polish this year. I applied and removed by hand.

But first I used a 3M restorer and the rotary. For that I applied by hand and while wet worked it in with the wool pad till their was a shine them removed any excess with a cloth.

 

[Nehalennia]

You can do both. Use the rotary to apply and then with a new bonnet or pad remove the product. Once it's removed go over with another clean microfiber bonnet on a random orbital.

 

[2texoma]

I used that same polish this year. I applied and removed by hand.

But first I used a 3M restorer and the rotary. For that I applied by hand and while wet worked it in with the wool pad till their was a shine them removed any excess with a cloth.

Which is the only method reccomended by Star brite,therfore correct for products #857**
Products #896** are wiped on and buffed off.
Long term damage can result from improper use of products and power tools as shurely as by neglect.

 

[Chris R]

Your option 2 is the closest - based on my own experience. What I do is spread the product on the pad (use a butter knife or something similar) -then, with power off, spread it (the loaded pad) around on the surface area you are working on. Now, on the lowest setting, go over the area throughly. This spreads the product without spinning it all over the place. Next, bump it up to a mid-range setting and go over it again until there is nothing but a haze left over. Lastly, buff the haze off with a microfiber cloth and you are done.

Since you have no oxidation, I would recommend using a foam pad. Use one that is for polishing (aka softer) and not for removing oxidation. For a wide assortment of pads - especially those made for gel coat check Autogeek.com. Also- this method works great on car surfaces - with the right pad.

 

[The Bill Collector]

Your option 2 is the closest - based on my own experience. What I do is spread the product on the pad (use a butter knife or something similar) -then, with power off, spread it (the loaded pad) around on the surface area you are working on. Now, on the lowest setting, go over the area throughly. This spreads the product without spinning it all over the place. Next, bump it up to a mid-range setting and go over it again until there Since you have no oxidation, I would recommend using a foam pad. Use one that is for polishing (aka softer) and not for removing oxidation. For a wide assortment of pads - especially those made for gel coat checis nothing but a haze left over. Lastly, buff the haze off with a microfiber cloth and you are done.

k Autogeek.com. Also- this method works great on car surfaces - with the right pad.

Hey, aren't you in the midwest and your boat is in Gig Harbor ? That is one hell of a feat !!! Bravo.... Ok, sorry I've had my evening cocktail and I'm feeling a little bit frisky....:smt024

 

[Chris R]

Hey Mark! Hoping you're not drinking alone (being frisky) :grin:

Yup, not easy keeping the boat clean when one is a 4 hour flight away. It helps for the boat to be under a roof cover though. I do have everything (cleaning, polishing) I need in the dock box and also tucked away in the boat. Bought a really nice collapsable painter pole to connect to my boat brush. It fits nicely in the dock box this way. Need to head back that way next month and run the engines for a couple of hours out on the sound. Schedule has really been busy since December.

 

[BurleyCove]

I'm a first time buffer too and I just finished trying to buff the oxidation off my gel coat. Using the 3 M restorer/wax product and a craftsman 10 inch buffer. I was using the applicator pads that came with the buffer and finisishnig with the wool pads. Still had to use a cloth to wipe the final haze off. changing the cover on the buffer each time i swithched from "wax on" to "wax off" was time consuming. I'm swithing to the apply by hand and buff off with teh machine method to see if it goes fateter. working on a small section after dinner each eveing until its done.

 

[ppkaprince98]

I have always thought that compounds and waxes work only when applied wet? Because once they dry they break down and flake off. I would also think you would get the best results applying the compounds and waxes with the rotary because of the consistant speed and pressure that you cannot maintain my hand. Removing it once dry, is just that, so using a rotary or doing it by hand is no different.

Am I way off?

 

[Pkunze]

Buff Magic using a wool pad on Shurhold orbital then Pro Polish using the same machine with black pad. Remarkable results on both Blue hull and topside hull.

 

[Chris R]

Ideally, you buy some pad spray conditioner to spritz the pad (to dampen it) before putting the product on. This way you are not using a dry pad on the gel coat. If you are having to change pads to remove the product from the gel coat, you are using too much at one time. Do a 2x2 or 3x3 area and buff the stuff in, without putting too much pressure on the tool- letting the pad do the work. If it is really oxidized, use a more aggressive pad/product when applying the wax/restorer. Like I said in my earlier post, go over it on a low setting to spread the product, then over it again at a higher setting until all you see is a haze. Don't let it dry on the gel coat.

 

[XSIVHP]

I got tired of trying to buff/compound with a random orbital, so I bought a HF buffer today as it was on sale- my question is, what speed do you guys normally use? It goes from min-I-II-III, etc. I tried a spot in the rear of the boat with some 3m compound I had and got great results on min-I any faster and it seemed to jump the buffer around. Here's a shot of what I did, if you spot where the searay logo was, that's where I stopped.

 

[BurleyCove]

Chris R thanks for the advice. I was using too much at one time. Cut way down on teh 3M on the appication step and reulst get much better and workk load was much easier.

Thanks!

The post that said it takes 18 coronas and a bottle of advil to finish the spring waxing project hit it about right too.

 

[Radiolizner]

Maguiar's M4416 Color restoration is a product we have been using for more than 30 years on our 1979 persimmons gelcoat. We apply it by hand. The company recommends polishing product before the wax, but 44 and wax has always been enough for us. To cut down on the workload I find kids in the hood who like to go boating: they help & then get an equal amount of time boating. Win-Win. They get muscles and an op the invite a pretty girl on a ride, we get the job done in record time.

 

[ppkaprince98]

I have been using some Meguires heavy oxidation remover #49 then the polish and it just seems like my boat still has a yellow tint to it. It is coming out very smooth to the touch and the reflection is pretty good, it just doesnt seem like its bright white like I feel a new boat should look.

I do have any issue with the wool pad gumming up as the compund dries on it, am I using too much? I see the Chris R. dampens the pad first which I do not do. When I apply the compound to the pad I make one complete circle around the wool pad is that too much?

*Sorry to the OP if I hi-jacked.

 

[Chris R]

To be honest, I never use a wool pad since my finish has never been that oxidized. Wool is great if it's got mod to heavy oxidation. Dampening the pad, wool or foam, helps keep the product "moist" and spread more easily- especially in the first few applications with a clean pad.

Maybe try a different polish if the one you are using is not shining it up as much as you like? You could do a test area next to an area you have already polished and see if it makes a diff.

I have been using some Meguires heavy oxidation remover #49 then the polish and it just seems like my boat still has a yellow tint to it. It is coming out very smooth to the touch and the reflection is pretty good, it just doesnt seem like its bright white like I feel a new boat should look.

I do have any issue with the wool pad gumming up as the compund dries on it, am I using too much? I see the Chris R. dampens the pad first which I do not do. When I apply the compound to the pad I make one complete circle around the wool pad is that too much?

*Sorry to the OP if I hi-jacked.