Input on Replacing original Radar with Garmin on 340 SDA

[boatrboy]

Specifically a 2006

Looking at what it will take to replace my original Raymarine with a Garmin radar.

For those who have done it;

1. Am I able to re-use the Raymarine dome mount with with existing holes or just drilling new ones?
2. Where specifically do I need to run the new cable? What has to come apart to do this?
3. Did you add the nema 2000 network at this time?

Thanks

Mark

 

[dtfeld]

Generally speaking, you can not just replace the radar from one manufacturer, with another without replacing the MFD or display. They are usually proprietary. Additionally there are several generations of hardware with various levels of compatibility.

Beyond that you have to sort out everything associated like depth guages, tridatas, autopilots VHF etc. They could have several different networks connecting them. If you replace all this stuff too, you likely will add a NEMA2000 network.

Depending on your mount, you may be able to re use it, but hole patterns are different, even within Garmin or Raymarine lines. A new mount might make it all look and perform better.

Running wires is actually pretty easy once you get all the details worked out.

 

[boatrboy]

Generally speaking, you can not just replace the radar from one manufacturer, with another without replacing the MFD or display. They are usually proprietary. Additionally there are several generations of hardware with various levels of compatibility.

Beyond that you have to sort out everything associated like depth guages, tridatas, autopilots VHF etc. They could have several different networks connecting them. If you replace all this stuff too, you likely will add a NEMA2000 network.

Depending on your mount, you may be able to re use it, but hole patterns are different, even within Garmin or Raymarine lines. A new mount might make it all look and perform better.

Running wires is actually pretty easy once you get all the details worked out.

Thanks David - I did not realize it came across that way. I am aware that everything needs to be changed. I am specifically wondering if someone who already has done this in this "exact boat", has any tips on which panels to remove, how to snake the wire up the arch, etc. I have done several installs with Garmin's, just not with radar or on this new boat.

 

[Korkie]

We did this upgrade 4 years ago on our 06 340. Replaced the RM C-120 with Garmin 7610 (tight fit, but does fit), changed the RM Radar to the Garmin GMR 18 xHD. Mounted the Radar directly to the arch with homemade spacer out of starboard to get the correct angle. Then 2 years ago had steering cable issues and upgraded to a SeaStar Hydraulic System and added a Garmin Autopilot with Shadow Drive and a Multi function Display in place of the Stock Speedometer. Also upgraded the SC5000 to a VV703. Tied all of this together with a NMEA 2000 network.
Doing it over 3 years spread the cost out, it is sweet setup and we love it.

 

[KevinC]

Specifically a 2006

Looking at what it will take to replace my original Raymarine with a Garmin radar.

For those who have done it;

1. Am I able to re-use the Raymarine dome mount with with existing holes or just drilling new ones?
2. Where specifically do I need to run the new cable? What has to come apart to do this?
3. Did you add the nema 2000 network at this time?

Thanks

Mark

Mark,

We put in a dual Raymarine Axiom system along with a new Quantum Radar on our 2004. All the cable routing will be the same. I would probably recommend a new mount for the radar if you are not going to be 100% sure that it is going to fit.

The routing is pretty simple you basically will go from the helm to the starboard side. You will remove the cubby next to the helm and there is lots of access there. from there you will route the cables back to arch. There is an access panel that is behind some of the seat backs to give access below the arch. You will need to remove the vinyl covered panel on the arch and most likely the speakers.

I wanted to remove all the old cabling but needed to abandon some. The factory path was out to starboard and the down to the area behind the mid-cabin cabinets on the starboard side. These were all zip tied in and access was horrible so it could not be used as a pull. The upper method actually worked much better and I mounted my network hub behind the the cubby too.

I will try to locate some pictures.

-Kevin

 

[boatrboy]

Wow guys - thanks so much
Kevin - that is exactly what I was looking for. Hoping you still have some photos. I will be back at the boat this weekend and look at all of this.

Korkie - what a nice set up. Trying to limit expenses this year and may just do the Garmin stuff and network. I just swapped the sc5000 with a vv1.5 so that upgrade will have to wait .

 

[Korkie]

Wow guys - thanks so much
Kevin - that is exactly what I was looking for. Hoping you still have some photos. I will be back at the boat this weekend and look at all of this.

Korkie - what a nice set up. Trying to limit expenses this year and may just do the Garmin stuff and network. I just swapped the sc5000 with a vv1.5 so that upgrade will have to wait .

We did the same routing as Kevin noted. My nm2000 is behind my gauges at the helm. I put quick releases on the access cover to the right on helm. Use it for storage of slightly used or spare parts. Lots of room in there.

 

[dtfeld]

Thanks David - I did not realize it came across that way. I am aware that everything needs to be changed. I am specifically wondering if someone who already has done this in this "exact boat", has any tips on which panels to remove, how to snake the wire up the arch, etc. I have done several installs with Garmin's, just not with radar or on this new boat.

Sorry about that. Assumed you were wanting to just swap the radar unit…

good news is there is pretty good access for wiring on all the Dancers once you figure out how to pull the covers.

A couple recommendations.

1. Install a SeaView or similar radar mount. Not too expensive, and gives you a very professional look and you can replace the stock 360 light with something much more robust.

2. Plan out you dream electronics package up front ( even if you don’t think you’ll install it) and think through the mounting and panels. Changing panels gets expensive if you upgrade something every year.

 

[boatrboy]

I put quick releases on the access cover to the right on helm. Use it for storage of slightly used or spare parts. Lots of room in there.

Can you elaborate on this? Any pictures? Is this access cover you are referring to?

 

[Korkie]

Yes - that is the cover. I noticed all the room in there when we were surveying the boat. The wiring was a mess and I had to straighten it up. It now is secured along the closest side. This left lots of room. I installed permanent locknuts on the backside where the sheet metal screws went in and used Stainless machine screws instead. I keep rarely used / needed spare parts in there.

 

[dvx216]

So my 2000 310 da I had a Garmin 943xsv on a ram set mount that was mounted directly below the throttles by my right knee . The main reason I did this was the location of the original monitor in the dash was directly behind the shift levers. On our 2001 340 Da. will be installing a garmin 1042xsv with radar where the old monitor is originally located in the dash. I went with a 1042 because on the rough days on the lake it has hard buttons as well as touch screen. The hard button are easy to use in those conditions.

 

[Smashpjp]

I know my 340 is a bit older (2001) but last summer I put a Garmin 18x Fantom on a seaview fwd tilt mount wired to a Garmin GPSMAP 8610. Biggest headache of the whole thing was wiring the LED lightbar for the seaview and needing to get an additional relay module for the anchor light to work with existing wiring. Fishing the cabling through the arch was rather simple with a snake and removing arch speakers. Seaview mount had different bolt pattern theen the previosly removed Raymarine radar that previous owner discarded. The old bolt holes were sealed and I just drilled new.

 

[boatrboy]

I know my 340 is a bit older (2001) but last summer I put a Garmin 18x Fantom on a seaview fwd tilt mount wired to a Garmin GPSMAP 8610. Biggest headache of the whole thing was wiring the LED lightbar for the seaview and needing to get an additional relay module for the anchor light to work with existing wiring. Fishing the cabling through the arch was rather simple with a snake and removing arch speakers. Seaview mount had different bolt pattern theen the previosly removed Raymarine radar that previous owner discarded. The old bolt holes were sealed and I just drilled new.

Can you elaborate on the relay? Was it because the new one is led?

 

[Smashpjp]

Can you elaborate on the relay? Was it because the new one is led?

Yup, didnt realize until I failed boat USA inspection. because the old wiring was incandescent, you need this relay module for a Perko LED. Didnt catch it in the details of the manual. other option was a rewiring of the switch. This was the plug n play option.

Perko 12v Converter Module F/Perko Led Combination Masthead/Anchor Lights

SKU: PER1680DP012V

 

[boatrboy]

Yup, didnt realize until I failed boat USA inspection. because the old wiring was incandescent, you need this relay module for a Perko LED. Didnt catch it in the details of the manual. other option was a rewiring of the switch. This was the plug n play option.

Perko 12v Converter Module F/Perko Led Combination Masthead/Anchor Lights

SKU: PER1680DP012V

Looking at this quickly - it looks like is goes in-line and has no alternate power requirements - did you mount it in the arch near the connections of the new light?

 

[Smashpjp]

Looking at this quickly - it looks like is goes in-line and has no alternate power requirements - did you mount it in the arch near the connections of the new light?

exactly

 

[Groucho]

Korkie Can you tell me what the upgrade to a SeaStar Hydraulic System cost? I think they did a great job on these boats..but the cable/hydro system is horrible and drives like a dump truck.

 

[Korkie]

Here ya go. I added Auto Pilot as well. The pump listed below has it built in so you do not need a separate pump. As you can see there are other parts needed to make it all fit and work.

Teleflex Marine SeaStar PA6010 Power Assist Steering with Autopilot Pump, Type 1, 12V TELPA6010 $2,141.36
Helm - (Steering unit) SKU 1516844498 @ $740.00
Reactor Auto Pilot $2049.00
Shadow Drive $399.00
Steering Ram $776.49
Steering Adapter $177.33
PLUS - several misc parts, hydraulic hoses, etc.

I did this because I was tired of fighting the hard steering. We had a SITEK AP installed when we purchased the boat by a vendor in Kent Island. This required replacing the helm and steering cable. The steering was already hard and after the install was worse. Dealt with it for a few years. The AP never really worked well and the vendor came and tried to get it right but really never did.
So we saved up for the SeaStar system. It is SWEET. Can turn the steering wheel with little finger, and if port engine has a failure, can still turn the boat as the port engine does not have to be running as on original SR system. The AP is spot on and is integrated into the upgraded N2000 network. I have several waypoints programed and she takes us right to them and back home staying dead on course. The AP shadow drive allows you to turn the boat to navigate around an obstacle (crab pot, etc) and the AP will resume the original course once clear. The AP also has a remote available to control it.
It was a pricey system, but we love it. Frees me up to relax on a long cruise while the wife and/or daughter keeps a lookout and steers around any obstacles.
NOTE: When removing the old steering cable we found it made a very hard turn behind the seat in the area under the arch. This may have been what was making the steering so stiff.
I had Washburns Boat yard in SOlomons.MD do the install along with a bunch of other upgrades. N2000 system, replaced both CAN bus cables from the helm to both engines (one had been cut and spliced by PO or someone b4 us), VV703, Garmin MFD in place of Speedometer, engine freshwater flush system, upgrade all software to all systems.
Just want to say they are an exceptional company to work with and very responsive to the tweaks needing to be made even 2 years after the install. (at no charge) They also applied for and installed the CoolFuel 3 upgrade to include all new Fuel modules to include fuel pumps, professionally cleaning the injectors (Merc had mine on BO for months) and all lines from the pumps to the injectors.
Wonderful to work with and everything was done, ABYC inspected and ON TIME.
Just like to give credit where credit is deserved.