Is removing a Bravo 3 for inspection a DIY job?

[tcontic]

My mechanic wants to charge me $150.00 to remove inspect and reinstall my Bravo 3 drive. No problems it's just that the boat is new to me and I'm unsure of the last time the drive was removed and serviced.

I'm pretty handy and have should have all necessary tools except for a B3 prop wrench which I've already ordered. What am I missing? Any other specials tools needed?

Is this a DIY project or should I pay the $150 and watch the mechanic do the job?

Tom

 

[MLauman]

Are you sure you want to remove the entire drive? Most likely, you just need to pull the lower unit - and not the entire drive. Pulling the lower unit is most definitely a DIY job and not a difficult one. Pulling the whole drive is a little more complicated, but not beyond a capable DIY.

Here are some basic written instructions: http://sterndriverepair.com/remove_install.html

A good shop manual (with pics) might give you a little more confidence.

 

[tcontic]

Sorry I meant pulling only the lower unit, not the entire drive.
Besides the prop wrench are there any must have tools?

 

[MLauman]

No special tools - just sockets and screwdrivers. Note that you will have to drain and refill the gear lube. You'll need a pump to load the new lube. Also, you should grease the splines on the main shaft before reassembly.

 

[tcontic]

My mechanic told me the gear lube would not have to be drained, we changed it last fall. Said the lower unit can be removed with drive lube filled. Agree?

 

[Nehalennia]

Do you know what you're going to do once you get it off, how to align/re-align it?
Are you doing this for inspection only?
To me, that $150 sounds like piece of mind that it's been inspected and re-aligned properly.

Either way best of luck and hope all goes well, keep us posted.

 

[Presentation]

Just my opinion, you do not need to change the drive fluid but why wouldn’t you?

I had this done in January, about a month and a half ago.

My bill detail for TWO BIII’s including changing the drive fluid from a marina, new boat dealer, Merc certified mechanic with a labor rate of $100/hour:

- Drive pull, Check alignment, inspect and lube = $210 (labor)
- 16755T1 Bravo install kit = $13.20 (parts)
- Re-Torque Gimble Ring Hardware = $52.50 (labor)
- Change Gear Lube $45.00 (labor)
- 92-816026A55 high performance gear lube $44.80 (parts)

Total for TWO BIII’s $365.50

The rest of my bill would not apply to the drive.

I saw them do another drive, not mine. They use a forklift + sling / strap. The BIII is heavy 148 lbs. (67 kg) plus you are bent over underneath the swim platform.

Paying someone $365.50 is better then me doing it and hurting my back again. But that is just me. In my opinion the time they allocate for re-torking the gimble ring, about 15 minutes per drive, seems high however since there is no fee for using their facility to do the work nor other BS environmental fees I’m happy.

Now a Alpha I gen II at 85lbs I would do on my own.

 

[MLauman]

My mechanic told me the gear lube would not have to be drained, we changed it last fall. Said the lower unit can be removed with drive lube filled. Agree?

I suppose it would be ok as long as you pinch off the external reservoir line.

 

[MLauman]

Do you know what you're going to do once you get it off, how to align/re-align it?

Alignment is only an issue if you pull the whole drive - not the lower unit.

 

[Fishnut]

$150 sounds cheap for a good mechanic that will line up the drive and check for wear.

 

[Dave S]

My dealer pulls mine every fall for less than 90 bucks and that includes checking engine alignment, greasing the drive shaft splines (and the u-joints if they are not sealed) checking the condition of the gimball bearing and then greasing that too.

The other thing about pulling a B3 on your own is the weight. That thing is pretty darn heavy so if you don't have a jig to hold it then you may need the help of one of your buddies.

 

[280 SeaRay]

I removed the BIII from my previous SeaRay (the entire drive) every year I owned the boat. You will have to guage how comfortable you are with the proceedure but it is not rocket science. Removing the entire drive allows you to check for engine alignment, inspect and grease spline, grease u-joints (better than via engine coupler), allows you to check the bellows thouroughly, the little o-rings on the drive shaft and drive itself amongst other items mentioned already. It also makes it easier to repaint the drive when away from the boat.

I would purchase the Mercury service manual for the BIII and review the process in detail.

I do not perform my own maint to save money... in fact in many cases I spend more DIY but it provides for 2 things

1. You become very familiar with the components of your boat which may be useful to you or someone else who has a problem on the water.
2. You can ensure you have done the job correctly. If it is not done correctly you will know where the blame resides

A couple of tools I would recommend and I own/used-to-own

1. Outdrive Stands - http://www.bimsracingproducts.com/Outdrive Stands.htm
2. Bravo Drive Alignment Tool
3. Bravo III Mercury service manual

Are you sure you want to remove the entire drive? Most likely, you just need to pull the lower unit - and not the entire drive.

If engine alignment, drive shaft spline, u-joints, and bellows, etc are to be fully checked entire drive (driveshaft back) will need to be removed.

My mechanic told me the gear lube would not have to be drained, we changed it last fall. Said the lower unit can be removed with drive lube filled. Agree?

I think in theory the drive fluid would not drain out when the drive is separated from the drive/bellows mounting plate (not sure of correct terminology). I have never rolled the dice with a mess and drained the fluid so I cannot give you a first hand experience on this one. Drive fluid is cheap a mess is frustrating.

Alignment is only an issue if you pull the whole drive - not the lower unit.

Alignment should be checked on a regular basis per your merc manual. Removing the drive does not affect alignment (unless something is horribly wrong) but does allow you to check it.

They use a forklift + sling / strap. The BIII is heavy 148 lbs. (67 kg) plus you are bent over underneath the swim platform.

The BIII is a little on the heavy side for sure. The drive can be wrestled around but I prefer to use the drive stands. The outdrive stands are a back saver.

I hope this helps.

 

[Air O'Nautical]

The oil has a check valve so no mess.
Change every year to check for water in it.
Very doable but, 150 is a great price.
Good luck,
Mark.

 

[Presentation]

...... Outdrive Stands - http://www.bimsracingproducts.com/Outdrive Stands.htm
....

Jeremy,

Thank you, thank you, and thank you.

I never new about this product.

I hurt my back years ago. Although I’m fine today I never want to go thru that again.

I came to the conclusion that my BIII drive is the one item I’m not going to ‘do it yourself’ out of a fear of hurting my back again.

Please share your experience with this stand. Do you need to do some final heavy lifting or is it as simple as ‘line it up, roll it forward’ like it seems?

Again, thank you.

 

[tcontic]

Please post some information about the drive stands you're using. Did you but them or make them?

Thank you,
Tom

 

[HavingFun]

I agree with Jeremy. I like doing those things because I like the satisfaction of knowing how it works. Plus hauling the boat to the dealer kills as much time as me doing it myself. I got an alignment tool off ebay for $35 and I plan on building a stand this year. I have an alpha drive - is there a standard gasket / o ring kit that is used when the drive is removed?

 

[280 SeaRay]

Jeremy,

Thank you, thank you, and thank you.

I never new about this product.

I hurt my back years ago. Although I’m fine today I never want to go thru that again.

I came to the conclusion that my BIII drive is the one item I’m not going to ‘do it yourself’ out of a fear of hurting my back again.

Please share your experience with this stand. Do you need to do some final heavy lifting or is it as simple as ‘line it up, roll it forward’ like it seems?

Again, thank you.

Glad this info could help. With the boat on the trailer and using the trailer jack I was able to get the drive in a very good position so I could just slide the drive off the bolts and set onto the stand. The stand is also handy to get the drive into position to line up the drive shaft upon re-assembly. Here are a few pictures right after I pulled the drive off.

As you can see in the picture below the drive lube connection on the transom side will leak (under top right stud). I drained the fluid prior to beginning this proceedure. Between the 2nd and 3rd stud on the right side is the shift cable.
The large passageway in the upper center is where the driveshaft will be, lower Center is the exhaust, between these off to the left slightly is the raw water intake.

......as visions of alignment dance in my head

Sitting on the stand getting ready to be cleaned up prior to lubing everything and re-installing.

Closer pictures. Gotta love that chalking on the side (arrgggh)... please don't tell me this drive does not get hot. Nothing a little polish won't fix.

Really dirty picture of the drive... yikes this thing looks horrible. Chalkiness, and needs a paint job.... but TLC was promptly administered after this pic.

Please post some information about the drive stands you're using. Did you but them or make them?

The drive stands were purchased at the link I indicated in previous post http://www.bimsracingproducts.com/Outdrive Stands.htm

I hope the pics above help explain how it can be used.

I agree with Jeremy. I like doing those things because I like the satisfaction of knowing how it works. Plus hauling the boat to the dealer kills as much time as me doing it myself.

Amen.

I got an alignment tool off ebay for $35 and I plan on building a stand this year. I have an alpha drive - is there a standard gasket / o ring kit that is used when the drive is removed?

Yes. Merc Part 27-94996A 2.

 

[SeaHarley]

$150 sounds cheap for a good mechanic that will line up the drive and check for wear.

I agree.
Plus, they know what they are looking for if there is a problem.
Pay the $150.
Ask him if you can watch and learn?

 

[tcontic]

Is that a B3 drive?

Great pictures!

Before removal is the drive in neutral or forward? I've seen conflicting opinions on this topic.

 

[280 SeaRay]

Is that a B3 drive?

Great pictures!

Before removal is the drive in neutral or forward? I've seen conflicting opinions on this topic.

yes this is the BIII drive on my last SeaRay. Thanks for the nice comments. I believe the Merc service manual recommended putting the shifter in forward prior to removing the drive but cannot remember and I no longer have the BIII service manual. I would strongly recommend ordering the merc service manual before performing this task.