Kohler 6.5 Cranks but will not start - Fuel Issue?

rumrunner said:
is the the anti-siphon valve the same as the electric fuel valve (with UL sticker on it) shown above?
Click to expand...
No. The anti-siphon valve is right at the fuel tank, where the generator draws the fuel. In some installations you can use an electric fuel valve in place of it, but it would need to be at the tank or before the fuel line dropped below the top of the tank.

Did you fill the filter with fuel?
 
Hello All, so... Filled the fuel filter full of gas... open and closed the fuel valve and gas dripped out of the fitting (I had the fuel line disconnected). even went as far to run some gas down the fuel line with a syringe. put it all back together and gave it a shot. No go, there was a moment when I thought she was going to fire... but no. I was playing around with the governor, held open for a few seconds and it sounded like she was going to fire, but no.
Next Step "Starting Fluid"... Sprayed Starting fluid in the carb and she fired right up instantly! when she blew through the starting fluid, no go again. Fuel Pump? or maybe a sensor, High Engine temp, High exhaust temp, Low oil pressure? going to see if the fuel pump is getting power, if possible without removing.
 
Loosen the fuel line at the carb and put a hose on the end of it then put the other end of the hose in a gasoline safe container and see if fuel flows when the genny is cranked.
Do this with the upmost caution.
 
Wanderer 290 said:
Loosen the fuel line at the carb and put a hose on the end of it then put the other end of the hose in a gasoline safe container and see if fuel flows when the genny is cranked.
Do this with the upmost caution.
Click to expand...
You could even use a 3 gallon tank intended for a dinghy. It will have a primer bulb and everything will be sealed and safe(r)
 
Ok, brief update I purchased the Fuel Pump... $300 and was in the process of taking out the old fuel pump. there is a fuel Line that runs almost under the genny that I was struggling to break loose... I followed the line to the carb and unscrewed the connection... then I had a thought (Thanks Wanderer 290!). If the fuel pump is bad I shouldn't get any gas to the carb, I stuffed a rag under the fuel line and cranked the genny over... a lot of fuel came out the line! so not the fuel pump, right? Maybe the Anti-dieseling solenoid? Stuck float in the Carb? Also struggling to find service part numbers for this model, carb gaskets, solenoid, etc. Any ideas?
 
Picture of the PIA connection...
pic 1.jpg
 
E9843472-DB70-4FE4-B6EF-09E44C9420D5.jpeg
rumrunner said:
Ok, brief update I purchased the Fuel Pump... $300 and was in the process of taking out the old fuel pump. there is a fuel Line that runs almost under the genny that I was struggling to break loose... I followed the line to the carb and unscrewed the connection... then I had a thought (Thanks Wanderer 290!). If the fuel pump is bad I shouldn't get any gas to the carb, I stuffed a rag under the fuel line and cranked the genny over... a lot of fuel came out the line! so not the fuel pump, right? Maybe the Anti-dieseling solenoid? Stuck float in the Carb? Also struggling to find service part numbers for this model, carb gaskets, solenoid, etc. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
More than likely the genny has a Kawasaki engine and the engine ID plate is on the block below and / or beside the oil filter. (See picture)
Once that info is acquired go to Jack’s Small Engine website, locate the engine and all diagrams and parts should pop up.

BTW, parts are significantly less expensive through Kawasaki vs Kohler!
 
An obvious finding - runs on starting fluid which means it's not getting fuel. Pump is working as verified by you finding gas while cranking. You have replaced and primed the filter. Only two items left, the solenoid and the carb. Bypass the solenoid. If that's not it the carb is the issue. That could be anything from clogged up corroded ports to the needle valve not opening or float stuck. Get a rebuild kit or a new carb.
 
Try rapping on the float bowl with the plastic handle of a screwdriver, near the fuel inlet. Sometimes a float can be stuck and will free up after this. Don't hit it too hard !!!!!

If it does free up, a carb rebuild / cleaning is now on your "to do" list.

I was a gen guy in a prior life and that fuel shut off solenoid valve was problem in 50% of the cases.
 
Thanks Bill, you are the second guy that has recommended this approach. I will be out there in the next few days a give it a try... I'll Keep You posted.
 
Bill Curtis said:
Try rapping on the float bowl with the plastic handle of a screwdriver, near the fuel inlet. Sometimes a float can be stuck and will free up after this. Don't hit it too hard !!!!!

If it does free up, a carb rebuild / cleaning is now on your "to do" list.

I was a gen guy in a prior life and that fuel shut off solenoid valve was problem in 50% of the cases.
Click to expand...
How much do you want to come get my Kohler to a reliable running condition? :)
 
If you have a Kohler 6.5 CZ, good luck in your troubleshooting. I had a similar problem with my previous boat. In general you can troubleshoot it by unplugging the bullet connector that is in front of the engine near the coolant reservoir. You will need to plug it back into shut it down. If the gen starts and runs, you either have a bad sensor, run capacitor, or circuit board. Google Kohler 6.5 CZ and settle in for some reading.

Early on I had a circuit board replaced under warranty for a similar issue, then the problem arose again in later years, I bought a circuit board and it still didn't run. It was a different issue altogether. I had a number of mechanics scratching their heads for months, finally I started reading and replaced the capacitor and it ran perfect!

There was actually a group of people in the 90's that tried to put together a class action lawsuit.
 
I have this same genset and I'm pretty familiar with it.

I would have suggested a carb cleaning before the fuel pump. They are notorious for dirty carbs and there's semi-hidden jets in it. If that's not it, inside the electric box is a board with a few lights on it. You have to read the manual but it basically tells you based on the lights where the issue lies - sensor, capacitor, etc. I always keep a spare cap and board in my parts stash. A bad cap will also cause a no start, however, if starting fluid works, it's not getting fuel! See your carb.

In addition, the engine is actually a Honda 2 cylinder, not a Kawasaki. I've basically rebuilt my entire unit.
 
Thanks for the feedback!
I will be back out at the boat Friday to take one last look. (The Boat is already under shrink). I will be looking to force Antifreeze through the system and tackle this project come spring.

Hey Douglee25, do you have a website that would point me in the right direction for purchasing a carb kit (rebuild Kit)? I am going to assume when I remove the carb I will need to replace the gaskets, maybe float, injectors, etc..
 
Unfortunately it's all a la carte parts for a rebuild. No kit exists. Do you have all the manuals and service books? PM your email if not and I'll send them to you.
 
First, are there any codes on the generator? It should tell you why it shut down or didn't start. There is a fuel bleed valve at the top. You are supposed to have a bleed tool, but if you don't you can just undo the valve. On mine, if you hold the "select" button in while moving the manual switch to "run", and continue to hold the "select" button, it will first tell you the hours, then tell you the software version, then display "Fuel" and run the fuel pump. You can see immediately if there is fuel flowing to the unit or not. I did this to rule out any fuel issues with my unit. Not sure that yours is the same. You can find all of this information in the service manual. You can probably find that manual at www.manualslib.com Good luck working this out!
 
Brief update on the generator issue... I do have a manual, the only one I can find is the "Operation and
Installation Manual - Marine Generator Sets" there is a lot of information but not so much detail on trouble shooting, very basic. I have had some recommendations on tapping the carburetor with a small hammer, possible float stuck. I have looked at doing this and I cannot find a good spot to hit the carb without the possibility doing some other damage. See the picture... Any suggestions?
I guess I should add that I did winterize, I will hold out until spring to most likely remove the carb and investigate.
IMG_6125.JPG
 
I did look for a engine ID Plate with no luck. I had a mirror and spent some time looking all around but could not find any tag.
IMG_6276.JPG
 
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