Mounting Weaver Pads

osd9

New Member
Oct 3, 2006
4,874
MidAtlantic
Boat Info
2003 410DA
Engines
Caterpillar 3126-TA w/ ZF 80-IV
I have never had a dinghy mounting system. Last year, my first with a dinghy, I tried towing the dink and that didn't work out for us. Then, for the rest of the season, I would just pull the dink up on the swimplatform and then tie it down. This was convienient for short trips, but on longer tirps, when pulling into to transient slips, it was in the way.

This year, my new boat already has the weaver davits mounted on the platform. That puts me at a small disadvantage, in that, I don't get to mount the davits where the Dinghy wants them. In other words, I have to hope that the davits are mounted where the distance between them, mates up to an area on the dinghy where nothing is in the way...like oars, lines, etc...

Anyway, my real question is, does anyone have any tips for how to decide on the best placement for the Yokes on the dinks, knowing that the davits are already mounted on the mother ship?

Once I figure this part out, I am then considering standoffs. I like the way that Ajones used the extra large standoffs. In that configuration, it seems to still allow for swimplatform access. But I'm going at this one step at a time. First I want to get the dinghy on the weaver davits.

thanks in advance for any advise....
 
I've helped a 2 friends do this on 5-6 used boats, including one brain dead guy 2X on the same boat when he sold it and then bought it back. I learned that it is critical for you do the alignment and positioning for the dinghy pads while both the big boat and the inflatable are in the water......and you don't need your wife and 10 "dock experts" standing on the platform supervising as you align the boats. If you will be loading the inflatable by yourself, then you are by yourself on the platform while you position the pads. Once you get the alignment right, them get the inflatable out of the water and do the actual gluing of the pad to the tube on a rack or on the dock.

Not all inflatable tubes and swim platforms are at matching heights and Weaver makes a ton of different attachments to aid in alignment. Spend the money on new pads if you need to since loading a dinghy that is mismatched to the platform can be a back breaker.

This is one of those measure twice, cut once things..............be careful.
 
I ordered a new set of the Yokes and pads...they are not on the dinghy. The davits are already on the platform.

So, if understand you, and it makes sense, with the boat and the dinghy floating, I get in the dinghy and load the dinghy like I normaly would. I assume that means with motor on the transom. Then I bring the dinghy up along the platform, in the direction I intend to bring it up. I'm guessing that I would put the yokes (inserted in the Pads) into the davits. Then kind of move the dinghy over the pads and mark the spot.

All gluing on shore.....sound about right???

Oh, and one more question....is there any preferred orientation of the dinghy....bow of dink to port of ship, or stern of dink to port of ship????? :smt017
 
Dominic,

I think the dinghy should be just as you are going to snap the davits on, which probably means the dinghy is empty. The theory is to have the inflatable and the big boat floating just as they will be when you approach to hook the davit on. Trying to lift up or mash the dinghy down to match the yoke on the boat to the snap davit is a raoyal pain in the toucus. If you set the elevation on the tube to match the davit when empty, it should just float into place an you press down to latch it.

Correspondingly, when launching the dinghy, you do it empty, the tie the inflatable off to a cleat, then load the boat with motor, tanks etc.

I can't see much reason to orient the inflatable in any particular way.
 
I've done this on two boats and can probably add some worthwhile advice.

I found that the time to attach the dinghy to the swim platform was after all crew was out of the dinghy but all normal gear was in it. It is easier to attach the dinghy when you are kneeling on the swim platform rather than in the dinghy itself. The nice thing about leaving all the gear in is that once the dinghy is firmly attached to the swim platform it will be much easier to move the engine and heavy gear without fear that the two boats will drift apart.

I was lucky that my dinghy pads fit nicely in just the right spot. On another boat we had to remove the "Avon" or whatever brand label using a hot air gun.

As to orientation, I like having the smallest part of the dinghy near the side which you normally board. The 410DA has the transom door to port, so I would put the dinghy bow to port, meaning the yokes are on the starboard side. The down side to this is that when you drive the dinghy you are normally seated to starboard, steering with your left hand. This means that you come alongside on the dinghy's starboard side - the same side with those fiberglass eating yokes. You have to be really careful - or come alongside to port only - or mount the yokes to port.

I got away with not using standoffs. My practice was to put two small fenders on the transom (hung from the horizontal railing on the trunk lid) and lay the dinghy against the fenders. I also tied a short line from the port sern of the dinghy to the starboard stern cleat of the main boat. The line was of a length that allowed me to tip the dinghy up to a vertical position. At this balance point the dinghy would be supported by the two davits and the line to the boat's cleat. This allowed people to come on and off the swim platform and through the port-side transom door with ease. The only hassle was docking starboard side-to and having to duck under the line. But you'd have the same issue with a standoff.
 
Thanks guys...really appreciate the input and insight. I will mull this over a bit and get back with a few more Q's I'm sure....

I tie Starboard to at my dock, so I'll have to give that some consideration when I try and decide which way to orient the dink.

thanks again,
 
Good Morning Dominic
After reading all the info on mounting the yokes, I agree. The most important thing I found was to place the yokes as far apart as possible for stability. In order to acomplish this on the Mercury 270 I had to remove one of the handles. (I belive someone refrenced removing a Avon lable with a heat gun. This is correct) Once I had my alignment with the davitts I followed the directions to the letter. It is important to follow the glue and sanding instructions in order to have a clean finish.
Good Luck.
Alan
 
OK....I know my luck, so I am going to assume I will have to remove at least on existing pad on the dink in order for the Yokes to work correctly.

What type of heat did you guys use to remove the pads? Would my wifes 1400W hair dryer do? And, any special techniques for removal?

Thanks in advance......
 
Dominic,
I purchased a heat gun from Ace Hardware for 15 bucks. Would recomend using something stronger than a hair dryer. I have found several other uses for the heat gun over the past year, so I view it as an investment. Using a vice grip apply a steady heat to the edge of the pad and pull with constant preasure, the pad will come off with some effort. You wont be able to remove the glue, so plan to fit the new pad right over the old and you will be set.
Alan
 
Alan:

Thanks for the tips........If I go buy the heat gun, I probably won't need it and the yokes will fit just fine.....If I don't buy the heat gun, I'll probably have to move two other existing mounts..... :smt017 ...I think I'll buy the heat gun as an offering to the gods..... :grin:
 
I also had used a heat gun to move one (of the two) mounting pads when I had moved up in boats. Becareful not to "burn" the PVC, at the time I had a West Marine rollup and I did burn the material slightly to get the glue to free up under the pad that I was pulling off. The burn was then covered up by a new Zodiac patch that I got from my dealer. They had advertized that my W.M. was made by Zodiac so I just made sure everyone new it. The patch looked OK and held up long after that cheap digny's floor ripped out. My next digny was a "real" zodiac - and no I did not put a WestMarine patch on that one!
 
If I remember accuraatly, Weaver recommends placing the pads as far apart as possible with one mounted at the transom location to reduce effect of weight there.
 

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