Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Wanted to post what I did as an alternative to my berth. I like it much better and provides more room to sleep. Thinned out the cushioning and added a dark leather. I really like it. This pic is of it "not screwed down" so it's just resting there for a quick pic. I'm going to install it tomorrow.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21366486371.384913.jpg

What do you guys think?
 
Looks really nice. The color selection brings a nice touch too. I see in your bottom picture you have some type of rails placed on the platform, is this handy?
 
Vida said:
Looks really nice. The color selection brings a nice touch too. I see in your bottom picture you have some type of rails placed on the platform, is this handy?
Click to expand...

Yes, very handy. People actually use the rails to walk out and 'enjoy the view' or stand with someone and have a drink or look in the water. I was surprised at how often people stood out there. Offers a nice alternative as opposed to sitting down. Also, gives you something to lean on.
 
Do you know what props those are? I'm having a devil of a time finding 4 blade props (my original 3s aren't worth fixing). Seems like the 1.5" shaft is the issue....if we had 1.25" no problem. The smallest 4 blade w/ the 1.5" shaft I can find is 17 - which is bigger then my 3 blade 16 x 15. When going to 4s you typically go DOWN in size not up. I don't think I can swing a 17 w/ my 260 HP 5.7s at 550 hours.

go-hokies said:
Thanks for the pics. Hate to say it... But it looks like sea ray changed the location in 1999. I have an 1998 and I am pretty confident they are located further inboard than your 1999.


I recall reading this some where but now I see the pics I believe is true. Maybe in an effort to prevent water intrusion

Mike
Click to expand...
 
Vida - do you have the make/model of those 14 x 16 4-blade props?

Thanks

Vida said:
:smt024Sprint - I have the 31DA 2000 it brought 15" X 16" three blade props. I was having a problem getting out of the hole if I had additional weight on board. I changed to 14" X 16" four blade props which have provided better out of the hole lift also there is less vibration and better overall performance. I find that a 15" dia seems to small a surface area which would also bring up the Rep's. due to the size. I found that prop size is based on how you boat and the performace that you actually want - speed vs economy.
Click to expand...
 
I just put in an offer on a 2000 310 with 7.4L twins running Bravo 3 drives in it. Does anyone here have that configuration so I can ask a few questions?

Also, just in general, am I being stupid to plan on carrying two 14' kayaks on the bow, strapped to the rails? I suspect they are plenty strong (the yaks will be on the deck, not hanging from the rails), but I wanted a sanity check.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Hi I have that configuration , just put it in the water ran great with just me 3/4 fuel no water and no top on she ran 44.5 mph I cruse at 31 mph and 3100 rpm, check those bravo 3 drives $$$$ only way to lube drive couplers is to remove drives
 
src said:
I just put in an offer on a 2000 310 with 7.4L twins running Bravo 3 drives in it. Does anyone here have that configuration so I can ask a few questions?

Also, just in general, am I being stupid to plan on carrying two 14' kayaks on the bow, strapped to the rails? I suspect they are plenty strong (the yaks will be on the deck, not hanging from the rails), but I wanted a sanity check.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I don't see why not. I guess it depends on the weight, but I can't beleive a Kayak would weight too much. As long as the weight is on the deck and not the rails I don't foresee any issues. I have seen a newer 310, 2006ish, with a pair of kayaks on the bow at a local hot spot a few times.
 
Great, thanks for the replies. I suspected putting the kayaks up there would be OK, but would rather not make too many assumptions.

310Sundancer, would you mind sharing your fuel burn rate at cruise, assuming you know? Since you are reporting 31MPH at 3100RPM, I suspect it's right around 1MPG, but would like to confirm it if possible. The fuel economy numbers I see for 7.4's is 12.5 GPH (each) at 3000 RPM, but that's not real-world in-the-boat data. Also, at what speed do you get on plane?

We were actually expecting to get a boat with 5.7s, and hoping for something above 1.5MPG at cruise, but we are willing to pay the 7.4L tax. Just want to know how much it will be.

I've been working my way through the thread, and there are some great ideas in here. I haven't seen anyone mount a TV over the mid-berth on the wall facing the cabin (the wall forward of the helm). Has anyone done that? So far, everyone seems to have just re-used the existing space. I did like the idea of putting a small screen on the back of the dinette bench facing the mid-berth, too.

Anything else I should be looking for at the survey/sea trial? Obviously, I expect the Surveyor and Mechanic to catch the structural stuff, but I'm talking about the annoyances or problems you only learn about after living with a boat.

Thanks, everyone!
 
I think 28 Gph is about right give or take, watch out for the gimble ring slop $$$ and Bering carrier under fwd prop $$, I made two up grades, tie bar , and drive showers, bravo 3s run hot if u cruse for more than 20 min.
 
As someone who got burned with Bravo 3s... here's the advice I'd give: pull the props, check for that bearing carrier corrosion. Make sure the drives don't swag at all back and forth. The steering is also probably very sloppy. Very expensive repairs. Also - check the gear lube monitors. Look for grey color or milky color. Make sure they have maintenance records for the gear lube servicing annually.
 
Water Pump replacement.
My mechanic at the marina says my water pump needs to be replaced, it makes noise and even the serpentine needs replacement!
I have not noticed anything and my water temperature is ok.

But my question he is quoting me 4 hours labor ... does it take this long? just curious ... it does not seem right.

What do you think?
 
George, I assume you mean the water circ pump? if you can turn a wrench, its a very simple repair. Took me about 1 hour per side. Purchased the pump from amazon, was like $80 each. Did both sides at same time as I had the weep hole leaking. Take the belt to NAPA and have them check it. If bad, they'll get u an exact same sized one.

4 hours is nuts for a single engine. Even 2!!!
 
tboohie said:
any one know how to access the air conditioning unit in 310 sundancer
Click to expand...

I see you have the '98. The AC unit is under the stairs and accessed from the rear berth. Take the screws out of that panel, and you'll have access.
 
Howdy Boaters!

This is our second year with a 1998 310DA 5.7 I/O. We only had the boat in the water for a short period last year, so I'm not super familiar with her. Mechanic at the marina winterized everything and then commissioned her for the spring. We had her out yesterday, and I noticed a few things that seem off. Think I need a new mechanic.

At WOT, I'm only getting about 3200 RPM out of the port motor, and maybe 3500 from starboard. I just feel like that's really low. Called the mechanic about it, and he said as long as it's running well, I shouldn't worry too much.

Next, when leaving the dock, my port engine stalled. Limped out on the starboard, and then started the port motor back up. Seemed fine until we went to get gas later in the day. Pulling up to the fuel dock, port motor died again. Then leaving the fuel dock, again. And then again when we tried to dock. Only happened at low RPM. Kick it in neutral, and it fires right back up. Just makes it very hard to get in and out of the dock.

Last, I can't control the windlass from the helm. It works fine with the foot pedals. Like I said, we only used the boat a few times last season, but I remember clicking up on the rocker to turn the green light on next to the control then pulling up on the knob and pushing forward or back to control the windlass. This year, I click up on the rocker, green light comes on, but I can't life that lever to save my life. Unscrewed it to see if there was some kind of corrosion, and used a bit of wd40 to try and loosen it, but no amount of pulling will free it.

I guess I'm just looking for some advice on this stuff. I'd like to see if anyone else has had similar issues. I'm hoping that the fresh gas will help the RPMs a bit, but it just seems really low.

Thanks!

Jay
 
Hi Jay-

Can't help on the RPMs since mine are inboards.

We had the same issue once with one of the engines. In addition, every two minutes or so while it was running an alarm would go off for one second but at low RPM it would stall. Turns out it was some type of air sensor that needed to be replaced. It was relatively inexpensive for a boating issue ... only about $200.

As for the windlass, sounds like you are doing everything correctly. I used ours yesterday the same way that you just described.

Hope this helps a little.

Craig
 
Regarding the windlass, could you look at the picture on this thread and let me know if you have the same switch: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/59747-Lofran-windlass-won-t-lower-always-raises

If so, are you saying you have to pull the toggle switch out (away from the panel) before you can lower the winch? I really hope so - that might be my problem. I never thought to try pulling it before trying to flip it down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,225
Messages
1,428,913
Members
61,117
Latest member
cowiekc
Back
Top