Official 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 290 Thread

Had the pleasure of removing the genset heat exchanger yesterday. Went to change the zinc and the cap came off and left the pencil zinc behind in the heat exchanger. Clearly hadn't been changed in a while. So, 4 hoses and two buried clamps later I got the HE out, drilled out the zinc (it turned to dust) and flushed the HE out. Went back together easy enough and I had a chance to clean in places I could never get to before. It needed new coolant anyways

Maintenance is now up to date aside from the fuel filter that screws into the genny. I'll do that at some point.
 
My 2001 Norcold refrigerator power supply failed. Almost 16 trouble free seasons from my DE451, I can't complain. Was looking at Dometic CRX1065, any experiences or thoughts? Thanks, Mike
 
Looking for some info on the light in the stern under the storage locker that looks like a headlight from a car....
I cannot seem to get it to work... The issue is I don't know what it is called, and not sure if there is a switch on the helm for it, or
does it come on in conjunction with another lighting system....
Thanks in advance..
 
Probably part of your all round white lighting system. Should come on with your red, green and white overhead running lights.

Probably a perko light.
 
Could just simply be disconnected. Mine is, we run the top last light as a 360* light since the dinghy will cover the lower one if it's attached
 
Learned a lot about the interior of our boat today. Found a wet aft mattress after torrential downpour and started investigating. Found that all of ourbow rail stanchions are loose and leaking. Time for a re-bed. For all the crap Searay and boat builders in general take for not considering maintenance, I have to hand it to them on the 290. Every single one of them is accessible from the inside after taking access panels out. I plan to loosen them, bed with 4200, and tighten down. Unfortunately there's plenty of black mold I have to spray as well, it formed under the gunwale and on the foam backed vinyl covering. I'll take pictures as I go, the interior is completely apart right now.

I also have to Rebed the forward arch valance, it's leaking inside the arch and down to where the arch meets the deck, and then dripping into the cabin. I rebedded the blower vent cover and tightened the arch bolts today.
 
Well, not only are the stanctions leaking but so are the port lights. Pulled the aft cabin window today for rebedding and will do that tomorrow. The others are going to also need to be done.
 
Thanks, got the opening cleaned up and checked the core around the window - no issues.

Problem is now it is a high of 48-50 for the next 3 days. I have a note into 3m to see if it will cure at that temperature.
 
Fun stuff. Port side stanchions are completed using 3M 4000UV. I talked to 3M and they recommended this product for deck hardware that can potentially flex like a bow rail so it doesn't pull away from the bedding. It's polyurethane based so it's nasty to work with but a bunch of gloves and acetone make life easier.

What was interesting is searay (or someone) drilled a bunch of extra holes and then had to fill them with silicone. I tried my best to clean them out and refill so hopefully they won't leak.

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Upgrades continue. Out with the awful dried and dirty window seal. Replaced with the rubber Taylor made. Didn't get many before pics but the first one is the old weather stripping, second is the new stuff

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do you have a part number or any info on the weatherstrip.... Looks great.... I hate mine as well....
 
Taylor made PN 8349030. I called searay with our HIN first, they gave me the windshield PN, then called taylor made with that number. I'm sure yours is the same, but you might want to do those steps to be sure. Cost $147 total shipped for 28'. Searay said they used 27' originally but get extra so you can push it into the frame ends. I also heard it shrinks, so I cut ours long.
 
Anyone have a clue how to get the headliner down? I have a very slight give on the port side in front of the windshield and would like to take a look. I'd also like to tighten up the center bow rail that the sunpad snaps to
 
front hatch shouldn't be too bad. It looks like the screws are on the inside and run parallel with the deck. Probably the same process as the windows I've been doing. Remove old and scrape, clean up surfaces and tape off, fill with silicone or other bedding material, press it all into place. I just did the galley window yesterday, it was leaking so bad that the whole wall was soaking wet after our last rain.

Door track is another story. The helm has to come out to do it the "right" way. You may be able to screw a new truck in from above if you don't mind screw heads on the cabin door, it's a terrible design.
 
it looks like the track might be broken. why would they use a plastic track. I hope there is a metal version any instruction to remove the helm?
 
Our track is cracked from people stepping on it (since it's right in the middle of the walk way) and two trucks are broken on the door. i just lube it with 2-4-c once a month and it slides easy enough, haven't been ambitious enough to remove it.

I haven't seen any documentation for removing our helm but if you search google I think there's a walkthrough for a similar vintage 270 which is close to the same setup as us
 
After applauding searay on the engineering of this boat I finally found something to really knock them on. The transom locker is awful, it's always soaking wet and I thought was draining overboard. Wrong. The water is running to starboard and draining into the engine room behind the bulkhead with the shore power on it. The hole had ZERO sealant. The water is also making it to the far corner of the locker and seems to be rotting the far panel. Not sure how I'm going to seal the hole yet, probably try pumping full of silicone.

Is everyone else's locker wet in the rain? It doesn't seal for me at all and there's no drainage channel.

Sorry pics are sideways
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