mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Has anyone replaced the 6" ceiling speakers in the cabin? If yes, with what make/model?
Official 380 Thread
- Thread starter Pseudomind
- Start date
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- Tags
- zf hsw800
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I got the spotlight turning by doing, well nothing, it just suddenly turned this weekend. Still no no light though. Mine has 2 bulbs, not many bulbs like the one in this manual: https://www.acrartex.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/915/Product_Manual_RCL-100_LED_ACR.pdf
Does anyone know what the make/brand/model are for the 2 bulbs? I assume they are burned out.
Chris-380
Well-Known Member
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
I will be winterizing the 380 for the first time this year. I will be blowing out the fresh water lines from the stern dock water connection. I will
- empty the system by turning on the fresh water pump
- open up all faucets, hot and cold, to drain them
- turn the fresh water pump off
- close all faucets
- connect the air compressor
- starting from the bow, work my way stern opening up faucets
- finish, wait 1 hour, do it again
- Pour 1 gallon of antifreeze down the head, flush
- shop vac the shower sump pump box
- pour some antifreeze down the shower drain
- pour some antifreeze down all drains
Chris-380
Well-Known Member
Just make sure you spend some time on the shower, transom shower, those are 2 easy to forget…
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
An the anchor wash down
Don't ask me know I know...I want to make sure I do not have to bypass the water heater or do anything special with the water heater, since I will be blowing out the lines versus filling with antifreeze.
- Nov 4, 2019
- 2,480
- Boat Info
- 2010 Sundancer 500
2015 Brig Falcon 330T
- Engines
- Twin Cummins QSC550 w Zeus Pods
An the anchor wash down
I want to make sure I do not have to bypass the water heater or do anything special with the water heater, since I will be blowing out the lines versus filling with antifreeze.
I bypass it, take my shopvac to the drain tap and pull out as much as i can and then leave the drain open. I'm sure you dont have to bypass, but my OCD kicks in. Don't forget to exercise the pressure relief valve as well.
Chris-380
Well-Known Member
i have a bypass for mine, not necessary, but i like having it...An the anchor wash down
I want to make sure I do not have to bypass the water heater or do anything special with the water heater, since I will be blowing out the lines versus filling with antifreeze.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
Being lazy here, it's in the aft cabin, port side, correct?
Chris-380
Well-Known Member
The water heater? It’s under the aft cabin couch, the water inlet/outlet is on the port side. Basically I put 3 valves in and 2 T fittings, similar to a camper by pass
1 T on the inlet follows by a shut off valve that closes the water in to the water heater
as the hot water leaves the heater another valve to keep water from backfilling the heater, then a T to connect the hot and cold together with a valve between them…
normal operation the bypass T is closed, and the inlet and outlet would be open.
when winterizing, close the inlet/outlet T’s and open the bypass T.
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,590
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
Greg. Check out this thread, you can rebuild the insides fairly cheap with new gearmotors from Amazon and lights listed from the company above. Check out the rebuild here… http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/arc-rcl-100-spotlight-repairs.89141/#post-1006434
The one think I need to do is pull it apart this winter and have the body/pedestal powder coated…
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
No known issues in my opinion, spend some time over the next couple nights reading through this thread though, it will help you out.
Sorry, I missed that you said Aft Cabin. Mine is the sundancer. Ex-wife's father had a 420 aft cabin, 2001 with the 3126 cats, fantastic boat.
Sorry, I missed that you said Aft Cabin. Mine is the sundancer. Ex-wife's father had a 420 aft cabin, 2001 with the 3126 cats, fantastic boat.
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
We cannot find either leg for the cockpit table. From page 18 of the manual looks like I need part 18 the 2nd leg:
https://manualzz.com/doc/23601617/sea-ray-2001-380-sundancer-parts-manual
682831 POST ABLE LEG 27.5" ALUM RIBBED (ZWAARDVIS)
Are these hidden in a special place on the 380DA?
https://manualzz.com/doc/23601617/sea-ray-2001-380-sundancer-parts-manual
682831 POST ABLE LEG 27.5" ALUM RIBBED (ZWAARDVIS)
Are these hidden in a special place on the 380DA?
Chris-380
Well-Known Member
I would guess they were under the double helm seat or the most forward storage locker on the port side near the companionway door. But could be in many nooks if the boat
mrsrobinson
Well-Known Member
That was my thought as well when we looked, not there unfortunately. PO claims they are on the boat. I was just checking to see if there was some weird strange place Sea Ray stored them that I'm not aware of.
370Dancer
Well-Known Member
- Oct 2, 2006
- 2,489
- Boat Info
- 1998 370 Sundancer
- Engines
- 380hp MAG MPI Gen VI with V drives
Mine were under the mid cabin seating. But, that is a 370
Sam Worsham
Member
- Nov 22, 2019
- 53
- Boat Info
- 2006 38 DA
2008 250 SLX (Sold)
87' Donzi 21 Z (Sold)
- Engines
- Mercury 8.1S horizons inboards
They are in the rear storage compartment (swim Platform) on the port side in my '06
Not the usual location for the VacuFlush system (under the boat). Have a complete new system on order from NorthEast Marine Distributors in Farmingdale, NY.
Question I have is how to replace the hose going from the toilet in the head back to the port engine compartment shelf? The hose is the original and is cracked and brittle.
Question I have is how to replace the hose going from the toilet in the head back to the port engine compartment shelf? The hose is the original and is cracked and brittle.
Got a quote to replace both fuel tanks. Called Florida Marine Tanks (original mfg.), they recommended Atlantic Coastal Welding, to make new ones. Had the blueprints sent to them.
Given that the engines and generator are out, I'm replacing the Vacuflush system and the batteries, it was the perfect time to replace them. Now I can clean, sand and paint the entire engine compartment (Sherwin Williams Tile Clad HS).
Removing the port tank was straightforward (access hatch in the floor of the port locker next to the cabin entrance), given the Vacuflush system and batteries were out. There are plastic spacers/shims on the sides that need to be fished out, to allow for movement. Used a cordless angle drill to reach in and undo the pvc bracket screws.
The starboard tank was a whole different matter. There is an access panel in the bottom of the rear cabin side cupboard. That's the only way one can undo the vent line, pvc brackets and then fish out the spacers/shims. The generator has to come out (already the case for me). The fuel fill elbow is welded on and interferes with the rear cross brace which supports the hatch hinge. Going to have a threaded fitting installed to alleviate this issue for installation.
Was pulling the tank back when it contacted the starboard fiberglass exhaust stack. Damn. After 2 days of ruminating had to bite the bullet and cut the fiberglass exhaust stack below the level of the shelf. Not as bad as it sounds, once the commitment was made. Install will be adding a three internal fiberglass tabs, then a fiberglass/epoxy wrap.
Given the amount of work I'm doing in the engine bay, wasn't going to get that finished then have the potential for a tank leak issue a few years down the road.
Given that the engines and generator are out, I'm replacing the Vacuflush system and the batteries, it was the perfect time to replace them. Now I can clean, sand and paint the entire engine compartment (Sherwin Williams Tile Clad HS).
Removing the port tank was straightforward (access hatch in the floor of the port locker next to the cabin entrance), given the Vacuflush system and batteries were out. There are plastic spacers/shims on the sides that need to be fished out, to allow for movement. Used a cordless angle drill to reach in and undo the pvc bracket screws.
The starboard tank was a whole different matter. There is an access panel in the bottom of the rear cabin side cupboard. That's the only way one can undo the vent line, pvc brackets and then fish out the spacers/shims. The generator has to come out (already the case for me). The fuel fill elbow is welded on and interferes with the rear cross brace which supports the hatch hinge. Going to have a threaded fitting installed to alleviate this issue for installation.
Was pulling the tank back when it contacted the starboard fiberglass exhaust stack. Damn. After 2 days of ruminating had to bite the bullet and cut the fiberglass exhaust stack below the level of the shelf. Not as bad as it sounds, once the commitment was made. Install will be adding a three internal fiberglass tabs, then a fiberglass/epoxy wrap.
Given the amount of work I'm doing in the engine bay, wasn't going to get that finished then have the potential for a tank leak issue a few years down the road.
