Official 380 Thread

Morning All, I installed the Mercury Engine Gateway and Vessel View Mobile and ran for a couple years now on my 2001 380DA with 8.1's(delivered without smartcraft). I get most of the Data On my Axiom's, however, Some datapoints are missing or incorrect such as:

Coolant Pressure
Coolant Temperature
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature

I am guessing that I have to add or change some sensors to get them to register correctly, I remember seeing a post on this a year ago but spent a couple hours searching for it with no luck. If you have any info or a link on getting these to read correctly, it will be greatly appreciated!
 

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Mig22 said:
If I recall there are a total of 14

5/8 - 4
3/4 - 2
1 1/8 - 4
1 1/2 - 4

At the time we did this, we found the chrome plastic ones didn’t have long enough stems and located ones with enough stem length thru searay-parts.com. (I don’t see them listed on their site anymore u may have to call them below are the code #’s) The 3/4 required a little massage for fit.

index.php

View attachment 123345 View attachment 123346
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Hello just an update on this as I just about completed the stainless thru hull upgrade, for my 2001 380DA the GEM 79100 did not fit the hole and do not need to be angled and I had to send them back, however, I found that the 1 1/2 4" long stainless thru hulls found on amazon with a hole size of 1 7/8 fit well. Also the two .75 will not fit the hole and you need to sand about 1/8 of the hole down which was very quick with 100Grit sandpaper. 1" worked fine for the 1 1/8 hose size as the heat gun shrinks it slightly. It was hard to get to some spots but looks awesome and well worth it. I used a heat gun to get the hoses off and that made the job much easier(make sure you run blowers in engine room first) the old thru hulls where very lose and some showed sings of cracking. I'll get pics when the boat is away from the dock and we make it to a bay.

These are the products that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JNQ1N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KGFMLW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
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The aft cabin locker light is not working. I pulled it yesterday and took it to West Marine today, the guy didn't know too much and wasn't able to help me out. I can't see any numbers on it or words, does anyone know what make and model it is?

Found the model, CEC1141 CJINA. Has anyone upgraded these to LED? I see many many makes out there, wondering which one is the best and what lumen for a cabin locker.

My anchor light is out as well. I forgot to pull the bulb before I left the boat yesterday, to check the make and model, does anyone know that one as well?
 
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Hello all,

I am adding Lithium LifeP04 batteries to my boat this year. The boat is a 2000 DA which has to two Merc 7.4 V8 engines. I purchased a Pronautic 60amp charger to handle the shore power charging needs and it does have a LifeP04 program. Each battery bank consists of two Banshee 12V 100ah LifeP04 batteries connected in parallel to double the ah, There is a port and starboard battery bank that power the boat and also providing starting current for the engines. My concerns are the two alternators on the boat. From what I can tell they are original equipment to the boat. Banshee suggests that as long as the alternators produce between 13v and 15v while running (3000 rpm) that should be fine. "should" is what concerns me. I really don't want to blow up my alternators. I believe I need an alternator that is a smart alternator with the correct amps but I don't have the budget to replace them at this time. In doing some research I believe the Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) might be the way to go. I believe the negatives have a common ground so I think the non isolated would do the trick. Most of my boating is at cruising speeds @3000 rpm producing about 13.7V. Would two of the Orion's do the trick?

Any advise would be most appreciated.
 
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JunkYardDog said:
Hello all,

I am adding Lithium LifeP04 batteries to my boat this year. The boat is a 2000 DA which has to two Merc 7.4 V8 engines. I purchased a Pronautic 60amp charger to handle the shore power charging needs and it does have a LifeP04 program. Each battery bank consists of two Banshee 12V 100ah LifeP04 batteries connected in parallel to double the ah, There is a port and starboard battery bank that power the boat and also providing starting current for the engines. My concerns are the two alternators on the boat. From what I can tell they are original equipment to the boat. Banshee suggests that as long as the alternators produce between 13v and 15v while running (3000 rpm) that should be fine. "should" is what concerns me. I really don't want to blow up my alternators. I believe I need an alternator that is a smart alternator with the correct amps but I don't have the budget to replace them at this time. In doing some research I believe the Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) might be the way to go. I believe the negatives have a common ground so I think the non isolated would do the trick. Most of my boating is at cruising speeds @3000 rpm producing about 13.7A. Would two of the Orion's do the trick?

Any advise would be most appreciated.
Click to expand...

Went through this thought process on a Beneteau I refitted over the past 2 years. Installed 3 BattleBorn LiFePO4 drop-ins that have an internal BMS for each 100Ah battery. Not familiar with the Banshee batteries.
You DO NOT want to connect your alternators to the LiFePO4 batteries, so the DC-DC charger (Victron Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30A) is the way to go.
Shoot me a PM with your email and I'll send you the wiring schematic. It's too large to attach to this post.
I would advise getting with Peter Kennedy at PKYS.com in Annapolis, MD (410-280-2267). He's a wealth of knowledge and had a lot of input into my wiring schematic.
As for alternators, you will definitely want to upgrade them at some point. I bought a 170amp Balmar unit with a flat belt pulley kit. Will do the same for the 380DA engines.
 
JunkYardDog said:
Hello all,

I am adding Lithium LifeP04 batteries to my boat this year. The boat is a 2000 DA which has to two Merc 7.4 V8 engines. I purchased a Pronautic 60amp charger to handle the shore power charging needs and it does have a LifeP04 program. Each battery bank consists of two Banshee 12V 100ah LifeP04 batteries connected in parallel to double the ah, There is a port and starboard battery bank that power the boat and also providing starting current for the engines. My concerns are the two alternators on the boat. From what I can tell they are original equipment to the boat. Banshee suggests that as long as the alternators produce between 13v and 15v while running (3000 rpm) that should be fine. "should" is what concerns me. I really don't want to blow up my alternators. I believe I need an alternator that is a smart alternator with the correct amps but I don't have the budget to replace them at this time. In doing some research I believe the Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) might be the way to go. I believe the negatives have a common ground so I think the non isolated would do the trick. Most of my boating is at cruising speeds @3000 rpm producing about 13.7V. Would two of the Orion's do the trick?

Any advise would be most appreciated.
Click to expand...
Definitely do not try to direct charge LiFePO4 you WILL smoke your stock alternators. YouTube has lots of videos showing the results!

In order to size your DC-DC charger, you need to add up what you plan to power with it and how long you intend to run those items. Simple excel spread sheet works. A high powered stereo system coupled with other loads may draw more power quicker than that unit can replace the power. You’ll have a big LiFePO4 Bank but can’t get the power into the other systems fast enough.

I’ve got a 2001 410 that’s very similar electrically, seems the Starboard is the “House” bank and runs a lot more of the day to day stuff. I’ve not done the calculation, but I need to. I added some underwater lights and they suck a huge amount of power! I may be limited to only using them when the generator is running as now configured.

I am adding 2 DIY 304 Ah batteries mostly for powering an inverter, but, having access to some of that battery is on my list. Current plan is only able to charge from shore or generator power…just easier that way.
 
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dtfeld said:
Definitely do not try to direct charge LiFePO4 you WILL smoke your stock alternators. YouTube has lots of videos showing the results!
Click to expand...

The OP is wading into a complex subject, which took me about six months and a lot of consulting with Peter Kennedy at PKYS.com and Jeff Cote at Pacific Yacht Systems, to sort out a viable approach.
PKYS.com has solid pricing for everything coming with someone who answers the phone and knows what they're talking about.
The issue with LiFePO4 (LI) batteries, is they have two really "bad" habits. The first is they charge really fast. This sounds good except alternators and voltage regulators have to be able to handle the draw from the batteries. Then, when the batteries are 'full' they have a second "bad habit", which is to shut off suddenly. Actually its the BMS (Battery Management System) for the battery that shuts off the charging and it's not unlike turning off the master breaker. Bad things happen.
Here is a great page on the BattleBorn Battery website, covering the topic.

The OP mentioned a Pronautic 60amp charger for charging the batteries. Unfortunately, it's not that simple. Really what is needed is an Inverter/Charger that does a whole lot more than just charge the batteries and supply 110V AC power. It also supplies DC power to systems without running through the batteries while on shore power.

If it isn't already, this probably should be its own thread somewhere.
 
I think the electric hatch actuator/motor is on it's last legs.
In the parts manual it's listed as "1100213 ACTUATOR, ELEC HATCH LIFT 12"12V CE".
Has anyone replaced this unit? If so, where did you find a replacement?
Attached is a picture of the motor.


IMG_0324.jpeg
 
PXL_20220604_155932057.jpg
How the heck do I power off my depth/speed unit, and what is this elect switch at the helm for, it's always lit blue?
PXL_20220604_180242880.jpg
 
SCFoster said:
I think the electric hatch actuator/motor is on it's last legs.
In the parts manual it's listed as "1100213 ACTUATOR, ELEC HATCH LIFT 12"12V CE".
Has anyone replaced this unit? If so, where did you find a replacement?
Attached is a picture of the motor.


View attachment 127985
Click to expand...
Got mine off eBay. Last year new was 400$. Now 7-800$. Look for a deal on eBay.
 
Nauti 97 said:
I believe if you turn off your Electronics switch it will go off. It
Looks like the switch is lit up meaning it is on.
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Depends on how it is wired. There are two potential connections on the back of that unit. The first is the Raymarine Network connector, which will power it. Turn off the power to the network and it will also turn off.
The second optional connector is a power connector. If that is being used, it will depend on how it is wired and to what breaker. Have one sitting in a box that I'm going to install with the Axiom 12+ chartplotter on the 380DA.
 
I'm assuming that ebay picture you are posting from your phone is old.
When I search on the item number shown in the picture (394045910340) the page is not found.

Is that a current picture or something archived?
 
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