Dave Marshall
Member
Good to know thanks guys. I will do some more research before I commit. I like the stainless option aesthetically but have seen some scratched and rusted so am leaning towards galvanized.
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=======Congratulations
These are the leds I used.
CBconcept 10 Pack, BackPin LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDQE004?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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These are for the ceiling lights in the cabin?=======
thanks, just ordered 'em
Did I miss it, or am I just a dumbass?
These are for the ceiling lights in the cabin?
YesThese are for the ceiling lights in the cabin?
If you pull off the starboard side panel it opens space for you too run wires from the helm to the ER. if you look back a few post at Kvduff he has a picture of the panel removed.I'm likely getting a wee bit ahead of myself, as the boat is still on the transport, however having done multiple upgrades/improvements and diesel conversion over my 20 years with my current 10 Meter Trojan, I am working through the thought process as to how to make this 450DA, which will now be my LAST BOAT as reliable and trouble free as possible.
A couple of years ago I blew a raw water hose on the Trojan. This was the single on the water failure I ever had EVER since installing the factory new Yanmars in 2006. After reading a horror story about a boat whose engine room filled with water when a raw water hose burst I always intended on installing a BOREL EXHAUST ALARM, which will immediately warn you of such a failure, even if you were to pick up a plastic bag in your strainer. So after my own hose failure, I did install this alarm for both Yanmars & the Northern Lights genny.
I plan to do the same on the Sundancer, along with many other upgrades to things at the dash such as generator oil pressure & water temp gauges, transmission temp gauges, an alternative to the Systems Monitor, boost & pyrometer gauges for the CATS, (my background is old school, 1980's MACK TRUCK engines and boost /pyrometer gauges saved many an engine by detecting a problem early on) and additonal independent higher water bilge pumps wired independently.
Anyway, I'm getting off the subject here which is over the 20 years as I did these improvements to the Trojan I quickly overpowered the factory PANDUIT conduit boxes for getting wiring to the helm/dash area. Had I planned ahead I could have easily added a couple of runs of PVC or even large sanitation hose (smooth inside surface) to serve the purpose of easily running single, duplex or more wiring to the helm area.
This would have eliminated fishing wires through with coat hangers under the helm, and kept everything in one or two places. Had I realized where I was going I could have easily taken a hole saw and added another opening alongside the factory openings and the sanitation hose/PVC/conduit would have made any future wiring additions very simple indeed.
TROJAN attached numbers to the factory wiring which matched the factory schematic. I do keep a labelmaker on board and yes I do (Yeah, I'm anal about the boat) label wiring for future reference.
So, after all the discussion above, the question is:
Has anyone made conduit runs and can you offer any tips on doing this?
Where did you run the conduit? What material did you use? Were you able to avoid the issue of using a hole saw and then having to seal the core?
I should add that I have a VIRGIN boat.
She has 450 hours and spent her life as a dock queen.
Her owners didn't turn wrenches and I have seen zero evidence of the dreaded PO wiring mess that can be inherited with a 25 year old boat.
Your comments are appreciated
RWS
1998 450DA out of the water, on the hard.
Might be a good time to handle some gelcoat issues on the swim platform where the PO's 1500 lb capacity crane did some damage.
Anyone know what would be the best color match ?
crane photos below:
BEST !
RWS
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