Oil Filter Change

mawyatt

New Member
Dec 13, 2007
1,001
Clearwater, Fl
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 38DA
Engines
8.1L Mercruisers
I'm changing my oil and can't believe how tight Mercury put the oil filters on. First I tried a filter cap removal and it slipped, then the chain clamp type and snapped the catch off , then I used the screwdriver thru the filter and bent my screwdriver. I went to the auto store and got a massive $12 screwdriver and finally got the filters off.....what a PITA. What ever happened to the hand tight then 1/4 turn with the filter wrench??? At least I won't have this problem when I change the oil again!! Anyone experience this kind of fun????
 
Mine were on pretty good the first time. At least it is off. Did you change your transmission fluid as well? It is required according to the warranty on the transmissions. It does not say anything in the S-R documentations. But it is in the ZF Manuals.
 
I had the same problems. Mine were under the engine and very hard to get to. At one point a former MM mechanic thought he was going to have to pull the engine to get the filter off. I now have the remote oil filter adapter! I bet Mercury does not put a bead of oil on the gasket.
 
Yes ive noticed the same thing when i did my first oil change on my old boat. It took TWO oil filter wrenches being used at the same time with 2 people putting every ounce we had into them. One broke and the other was barely to get the filter off. Im not sure where they found the specs that said the oil filter needed to be tightened to 4 million pounds of torque, but you really dont need more than hand tightening with 1/4 turn with the wrench.

Mike
 
Dear Lord, do I recall trying to remove the oil filter from my 4.3L; heat rash on my forearms and blood shot eyes while hanging upside down. Installation was always a treat with slippery hands and feeling my way around blindly. The new ride with a 7.4 and remote filter is so much better!
 
Funny that this came up. Last May, I took the boat out for a ride to warm up the oil before changing it. This was the 1st time that I had changed the oil after buying the boat. I had the marina put me on a work rack within 10 minutes or so of getting back to the dock. I removed the transducer, dropped the drain hose out of the hole, and proceded to drain the oil. After it started draining, I attempted to remove the filter to make the oil drain faster. It would not budge. I have the remote oill filter which is mounted up top, and is real easy to get to. I was using a good quality steel strap type filter wrench on it with both hands. The wrench was slipping and actually cut little grooves around the filter. I ended up driving a large screwdriver straight through the filter, and was finally able to remove it by putting my right foot on the business end of the driver and both hands on the handle. It darn near cut the fliter in half before it broke loose. I was cussing out the last person that changed it for putting it on so tight and/or forgettting to lube the seal. While the last quart or so was dripping out, the admiral called to tell me that some friends that I hadn't seen in a long time had just shown up at the house. It was starting to get dark, so I decided that I would just go home and let the rest of the oil drain out over night. Before I left the marina, I lubed the seal on the new filter and spun it on until it seated. I did not tighten it at all, I just spun the filter until it bottomed and left it for the night. The next afternoon, I came back to finish the job. I put the bolt back in the drain tube, stowed it under the motor, put the transducer back in, and filled the engine with oil. I knew that the filter was just screwed on until it hit bottom, so I grabbed the top of it to hand tighten it. I never use the wrench to install a filter, ever. Not even on my car or truck. On the vehicles, I can usually slide under them and remove the filter after several months without using a wrench. I can always get them off by hand. I grabbed the filter, and attempted to tighten it by hand. It would not turn, not even a little. Just for kicks, I tried to remove it. I couldn't remove it either. I got out the filter wrench, and it took a good bit of pull to get it to loosen. I thought that was strange, so I lubed the seal for the second time. It was still visibly coated with oil, but I did it again anyway. Again, I only turned it until it bottomed, but this time I gave it an extra 1/8 of a turn. A couple of days later I happened to be in the ER. Out of curiosity, I attempted to loosen the filter. I could not budge it using both hands. I was able to loosen it with the strap wrench, but it took an amazing amount of pull to get it loose. I again spun it on until it seated, but did not tighten it at all. I just made sure that it wasn't leaking when I started the engine.

On my next oil change at the end of August, I used the proper size cap type oil filter wrench with a 3/8" ratchet. It wouldn't budge. I had to get out a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and a 1/2" breaker bar to get it off. The entire filter actually twisted before it broke loose.

I think the seals on the Merc filters expand with temperature changes and it "locks" the filters on. I can't think of any other explanation. Don't be so quick to blame the last person that changed the filter. Even if they hand tightened it, it may feel like it was wrenched on when you go to remove it later on. :huh:

Michael
 
Mine were on pretty good the first time. At least it is off. Did you change your transmission fluid as well? It is required according to the warranty on the transmissions. It does not say anything in the S-R documentations. But it is in the ZF Manuals.

Thanks, I know about the transmissions. The dealer wanted $112 for the filter (I need 2), someone pointed me to a place that sold them for $49 each. Still expensive but better than $112!! I haven't changed these yet. Hopefully I'll get to the transmissions this weekend!!
 
I had the same deal. Crushed the filters with the wrench, then went to my monster screwdriver, which tore them up even more. I thought I was going to run out of places to drive that screwdriver thru the filter. I finally got them off, but I had to put all 240 lbs into it and have both feet firmly planted.
 
I can really identify with your frustration! A couple of years ago I purchased a used Sea Ray and when I tried to remove the oil filter the only way to get it off was to strip the can from the filter base and make a tool with pins to fit in the holes of the filter base plate. Even then it was nearly impossible to get off. There used to be a filter tool called the "fang" that had teeth that would fit in the base plate holes. I believe it is out of production however.
 
I've had very good luck with chain strap wrenches vs. the band style strap wrenches. They really dig in well.

Doug

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Chain-Wrench/index.htm

thumbnail.asp
 
I have had great luck with the chain type wrenches as well. The version I use is made by Vice Grip. It takes a minute to set it up properly on the filter but the adjustable locking pliers action provides excellent leverage and grip. The only drawback is the clearance needed around the filter for the chain.
 
I dont know of any manufactruer that suggest tightening the last 1/4 turn with a wrench. You should always install a filter with NEW oil on the gasket and hand tighten ONLY. But here is a good safe way to get off a filter that is stubborn without breaking a tool or your knuckles.
Purchase a large channel lock tool. (not just for this but it will have many other uses over the course of your boating years). I suggest this cause you can get a good grip, a forceful hold at the base of the filter without ripping it apart and the tool will most likely have long handles for leverage. You should be able to firmly and smoothly twist it off. Motto: the proper tool for the proper job (or situation) - or- let the tool do the work for you and not strain yourself. If you prefer an alternative method, you can get a crowbar and BANG the daylights out of it - that's the HARD way.
 
I documented a similar post earlier this year as well. I installed the filters last year myself and questioned if I had overtightened them. I might have, but I doubt I would have tightened them to the point of being "locked". I've concluded one thing, the filters are made with very thin aluminum and can not take the pressure needed to remove them.

This year I greased my o-rings with silicone instead of oil. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
I have had great luck with the chain type wrenches as well. The version I use is made by Vice Grip. It takes a minute to set it up properly on the filter but the adjustable locking pliers action provides excellent leverage and grip. The only drawback is the clearance needed around the filter for the chain.

I had one of these and snapped off the tooth that grabs the chain!! These filters were really tight. I took the took back and got it replaced. As mentioned I finally was able to get the filter to budge with an almost 2' screwdriver rammed thru the filter side, it cut the filter metal as I tugged to break it loose.
 
Mike,

The trick with the chain type wrenches is positioning the chain (bands don't give the same type of grip). I have always managed to sneak the chain around the filter, BUT it must be positioned near the threaded end, about an inch or two away.

I like the Vise Grip tool because you are not relying totally on the lever arm to do the work. It is infinitely adjustable and when tight (and near the base of the filter), it won't dig in much at all. The odd time I will puncture the filter with the chain but then I simply move the chain a bit and try another spot. The force is more controlled this way. A mechanic friend told me about this ten years ago and I've used it ever since except in the tightest clearance situations.

The only drawback usually is the extra time to set it up around the filter.

I'm sure other people use this trick but when I have the filter a bit loose, I pull a big zip-lock bag up around the filter and spin it into the bag. Zip the lock and you hardly drip any oil at all. Four out of five oil changes are neat. The odd time it gets real messy for whatever reason.

James
 
Our fuel filters are usually this tight. The bad part there is they are mounted on a nylon/plastic? bracket which flexes while trying to break them loose. Then the fact the filter can is about an inch above the stringer and allows only the use of a strap type wrench makes it interesting!
If anything I would say to mount any type of strap wrench close to the base of the filter where it is less likely to crush while applying torque.
 
I see that Outside The lines has also experienced that enigmatic oil filter behavior. I have had it too. With spin on filters fuel/oil for some reason ,they can get tighter despite your installation technique! I once tried to remove the spin on water separating fuel filter for my generator. It is mounted on a plywood panel on the fuel tank. I had to turn so hard I split the wood. It has been explained to me that the cause is different metals and coefficients of thermal expansion. The person suggested to try taking the strain off prior to the warm up and it will come off easily. I found that that works half the time. I have resorted to a mongo sized oil filter wrench that will grab anything and it usually bends the hell out of the filters before it starts to loosen!It is the kind that resembles a very large pliers with curved jaws.
 
Mike -
I got the Cummin's - and same bitch.
My oil ones weren't bad - but it was the fuel filter ones.
One morning - I broke 2 wrenches trying to take them off (one was my big chain wrench from our shop!) - called Cummin's said to the guy, this is BS, they shouldn't be on that tight.. he was swinging down that day to the Marina any way - he stopped by - he ended up getting out his big arse vice grips with long handle - and still took some work. Ridiculuous. Problem is - I am sure it's same with yours. Is they put on the cans, then they paint it all - so they are more "painted on" than anything else...
 

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