SC 5000 to VV703 Question

leeron

New Member
Oct 4, 2023
25
Boat Info
2004 320 Sundancer
2007 Sea Ark 2472MV
Engines
Twin 5.7L MPIs
115 ETEC
Hello all. I know there are tons of threads here on this subject but I haven't been able to find any post about my question.

A little background. I have a 2004 320 Sundancer with 5.7L's and V Drives. Just bought the boat in November. It has the SC 5000 which needs to be replaced. I have the analog gauges. I do have a NMEA 2000 network in place for the Garmin electronics.

My goal is to install the VV703 where the SC 5000 is now, and keep my analog gauges functional.

Here is a block diagram of my existing set up:

320 Electronics BWD.jpg



My questions are:
1. Can I simply replace the 4 port J box with a 5 port J box, then feed the VV link controller / VV 703 off of a port and leave the SC 5000 on another port in order to feed the analog gauges? The reason I ask this question is most of the diagrams I've found for the SC CAN show separate J boxes for each engine.

2. Is there a better solution? I thought I read somewhere that there is an Analog Gauge Interface Kit.

3. For the NMEA 2000 connection, can I just add one more T to my existing network?

Appreciate any advice or tips you folks might have.
 
Aren't your gauges Mercury SysLink digital units?
If so the master gauge is your SC5000. That is required to drive the SysLink gauges.
The VV7xx can also be the master gauge and replace the SC.
The VV7xx also has a NMEA2000 port so everything can be integrated.
There should be two harness's under the helm - one from Starboard and one from Port engines/systems - typical but I've been wrong a lot lately..... Each plugs into it's own J-box then there is a data link and awake harness between the two J-boxes.
You'll need different interface harnesses that the SC uses but the VV7xx can plug right into where the SC5000 was/is. You can expand or replace the Smartcraft J-boxes. If you expand then the termination resistor (yellow capped connector) needs to be moved to the last one in line.
 
I looked for another harness, but could not locate it. My assumption was blue cable with red tape is port engine, the one with green tape starboard engine.

58D4A8B7-B501-49BB-9F20-7B58DAEC2B17.jpeg
 
on my 340
I plugged the vv into a open port and left the sc5000 plugged in and put it behind the dash
Without the sc5000 the gauges don’t work
 
on my 340
I plugged the vv into a open port and left the sc5000 plugged in and put it behind the dash
Without the sc5000 the gauges don’t work
That's what I was thinking because there's no place on the VV to plug that gauge harness into.

View attachment 160511
 
Aren't your gauges Mercury SysLink digital units?
If so the master gauge is your SC5000. That is required to drive the SysLink gauges.
The VV7xx can also be the master gauge and replace the SC.
The VV7xx also has a NMEA2000 port so everything can be integrated.
There should be two harness's under the helm - one from Starboard and one from Port engines/systems - typical but I've been wrong a lot lately..... Each plugs into it's own J-box then there is a data link and awake harness between the two J-boxes.
You'll need different interface harnesses that the SC uses but the VV7xx can plug right into where the SC5000 was/is. You can expand or replace the Smartcraft J-boxes. If you expand then the termination resistor (yellow capped connector) needs to be moved to the last one in line.
Ttmott replied in this thread post number 3 and seemed to be right on. I am no expert here but am looking to do the same thing and have been on the phone with Mercruiser several times this week.

Below is a picture they (Merc) sent me. I still have questions because the harness (lower one) doesn't show the connection to a 502 - but it appears the harness is the key to driving the gages and eliminating the old Vessel view.

Maybe this will help - I am still investigating this. I am thinking "a" in the lower picture is the 502 not the "mfd"



1710520216736.jpeg
 
Boatrboy - YES! This makes perfect sense. I'll do some research and decide what to order. This rigging should allow gauge connection via (k) in your bottom diagram. I found a similar harness (8M0075065) description in the link from ttmott in post #4. I would rather do this than rely on my crappy old SC 5000 behind the dash. Just another point of failure.
 
I have some extra harnesses I’ll take a look at the part numbers when I get home tomorrow
Boatrboy - YES! This makes perfect sense. I'll do some research and decide what to order. This rigging should allow gauge connection via (k) in your bottom diagram. I found a similar harness (8M0075065) description in the link from ttmott in post #4. I would rather do this than rely on my crappy old SC 5000 behind the dash. Just another point of failure.
 
Boatrboy - YES! This makes perfect sense. I'll do some research and decide what to order. This rigging should allow gauge connection via (k) in your bottom diagram. I found a similar harness (8M0075065) description in the link from ttmott in post #4. I would rather do this than rely on my crappy old SC 5000 behind the dash. Just another point of failure.
Any update?
 
Updating. Here is my plan. The stuff in blue is new, gray/black is existing. I included the part numbers for the cables I will need to buy that are not included in the kit. I have not bought anything yet. I am replacing some dash panels as well so getting that sorted out with FP Marine.
320 New Electronics BWD.jpg
 
Updating. Here is my plan. The stuff in blue is new, gray/black is existing. I included the part numbers for the cables I will need to buy that are not included in the kit. I have not bought anything yet. I am replacing some dash panels as well so getting that sorted out with FP Marine.
View attachment 161010
What software did you use to create this diagram?
 
MS PowerPoint.
 
As a follow up here:
I installed the VV703 per the discussion in this thread and exactly like the diagram in post #12. I did not retain the SC5000. Everything is working, including my old gauges. There was a little bit of configuration to get the fuel sensor and rudder angle working but the 703 mostly detected all the inputs, overall pretty easy to set up.
 
As a follow up here:
I installed the VV703 per the discussion in this thread and exactly like the diagram in post #12. I did not retain the SC5000. Everything is working, including my old gauges. There was a little bit of configuration to get the fuel sensor and rudder angle working but the 703 mostly detected all the inputs, overall pretty easy to set up.
Great news! Especially since I just ordered a 502 for my boat. I decided rather than wait for the moment the current view died, I would convert now.

The only difference in my set up compared to yours, is I have (2) 4 port J-Boxes, each have one engine going into them, a cable to connect box to box, and a wake cable. Since I will have open ports on each, I am hoping that plugging the display into one, and the link controller into the other, it will work as yours did.

@ttmott was right on with the cabling so far, so I'm hoping he can confirm my set up as well.

Thanks for the follow up.
 
leeron,

Do you know what is the grey plastic piece that came with my 502 screw bag? Looks like a "t"

1713144595320.png
 
leeron,

Do you know what is the grey plastic piece that came with my 502 screw bag? Looks like a "t"

View attachment 162163
Yes, that would be a screw alignment tool. This will help to drive the mounting screws straight in and keep the bezel aligned.

alignment tool.jpg
 
Yes, that would be a screw alignment tool. This will help to drive the mounting screws straight in and keep the bezel aligned.

View attachment 162174
Thanks - interesting that it came with my 502 yet the install directions don’t show it.

I bummed to find out I need another jbox and cable after talking again with merc. It turns out the drawing I sent you only shows the final box as you drew. Mine has a jbox for each engine and a connection harness between them so I thought connecting to either box would work. After my call today with the guy who made that drawing, said I need another “y” cable and another 4 port.
What the hell it’s only $$$.
 
That’s odd. I didn’t really use the alignment tool anyway.

Yeah, your j- box setup is one for each engine. SeaRay built some that way, I think they cheaped out on mine.

On the bright side, your setup is superior in that there is some redundancy as the CAN gets power from either engine ignition whereas mine gets power from starboard ignition. If my starboard engine/ignition ckt fails then my 703 and gauges will not work.

And it’s only $$$$.
 

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