Gregory Beach

Member
Sep 3, 2020
33
Tacoma, WA
Boat Info
2012 310DA
Kohler 5EKD
Engines
Twin 305 MerCruisers w/ Bravo III Drives
DTS w/ Axius
Hello, there!

Just replaced both alternators and the port side presentation suggested some hardware replacement. First was the pulley - it was seized pretty well, but I was able to pop it off. Now I find the bearing seized on the pinion stud and I cannot get it off for the life of me. It's stuck on the bracket and I have the replacements ready to go.

I've tried vice grips, WD, heat, hammering the bolt, a knockout tool on bolt sides. It even bared my multi-tool, and bested the HCS blade I had handy.

Any advice? Thanks in advance. My port is ready to get out on the water, and so am I!
 

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Had to cut mine off, use a Dremel tool with a small cutter to save the stud if you don't have a new one.
 
Had this happen a couple times. It's easier if you start by taking off the bracket. I had to put a vice grip on the bushing and then a breaker bar or impact on the bolt head behind the bracket
 
Thanks Phil, seems aligned with my trial and error efforts thus far. How much of the bracket can be dismantled without necessitating deconstructing adjacent parts? Is the bracket I’m working on modular and containing only the idler pulley and pinion assembly?
 
Had to cut mine off, use a Dremel tool with a small cutter to save the stud if you don't have a new one.

Hadn’t thought of this, I’ll take a trip to the hardware store! Thank you!
 
I'm not sure on your particular setup but it should just be a couple bolts

One was on so tight I almost bought a new bracket but I was able to separate them finally
 
I'm not sure on your particular setup but it should just be a couple bolts

One was on so tight I almost bought a new bracket but I was able to separate them finally

Excited to take a look after work! :D
 
1) Take a high-speed angle grinder and lean on that first bearing in one spot, grinding almost down to the stud. That does two things; heats the bearing causing it to swell slightly, and thins that part of the race, allowing it to release some of its tension. If it starts to glow red before you get that far, jump to the next step.
2) Immediately upon grinding the inner race, grab it with a set of slip-jaw pliers while it's still smoking hot and attempt to rotate/slide off the stud.
 
1) Take a high-speed angle grinder and lean on that first bearing in one spot, grinding almost down to the stud. That does two things; heats the bearing causing it to swell slightly, and thins that part of the race, allowing it to release some of its tension. If it starts to glow red before you get that far, jump to the next step.
2) Immediately upon grinding the inner race, grab it with a set of slip-jaw pliers while it's still smoking hot and attempt to rotate/slide off the stud.

A superb idea, but I don’t have an angle grinder, nor (likely) the skillset for this one.

Thank you! :)
 
What must happen is ..... the bearing in your idler is toast, so it generates so much heat that the bearing is fused to the bolt.

I remember cursing that thing!

Of course I stripped the bolt head (behind the bracket) so I took the bracket out of the boat, put an extractor socket on the bolt head, vice grips on the bushing, and hit the bolt head with an impact 500 lb-ft. That did it!

Hopefully you got the new bolt and new busing?
 
Unlikely you have a Tig welder, but maybe a friend? I just find a nut that fits the shaft and tig weld it to the stud. After it cools I can almost unscrew it with my fingers. The high heat from the welding breaks all the corrosion. It always works for me.
 
:Do_Oo_O
What must happen is ..... the bearing in your idler is toast, so it generates so much heat that the bearing is fused to the bolt.

I remember cursing that thing!

Of course I stripped the bolt head (behind the bracket) so I took the bracket out of the boat, put an extractor socket on the bolt head, vice grips on the bushing, and hit the bolt head with an impact 500 lb-ft. That did it!

Hopefully you got the new bolt and new busing?

Yes, they were waiting for the old ones to come off ha ha! I finally got it today, after the comment that suggested to pull out that section of bracketing. It was a pain to remove—harder to replace, but it’s all good now. A gloomy day for a ride, but took her out to test everything. Looks like I’m onto a water press or sensor purchase, next o_O
 

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Unlikely you have a Tig welder, but maybe a friend? I just find a nut that fits the shaft and tig weld it to the stud. After it cools I can almost unscrew it with my fingers. The high heat from the welding breaks all the corrosion. It always works for me.

That’s yet another GREAT idea—thanks!
 

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