Espos4
Well-Known Member
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Now there's some real sound advice! NOT!Why did it go into limp home mode? Is there water in your oil? If so, it will look like tapioca and the bearings will soon be gone. You've fixed the blown frost plug and that has substantially limited the water flow. Your bilge pump may be able to handle it as your raw water cooling is not pressurized. You could install a 2nd pump to handle any excess and as a back-up. Not perfect, but you don't have to tell you guests that your boat leaks. This is not going to get any worse. One of the catalyzed liquid steel products could reduce or divert an external leak from the electricals. Meanwhile, you could list it in Craigslist and Boat Trader for $5,000 off, say $25,000; default on your loan and let the bank deal with it; park it in a bad neighborhood; or, donate it. Call the local marinas and offer it at your bargain price; they have parts at cost, surplus labor and could flip it. You could hire a mechanic by the hour on the condition that you would do the repairs together and you would be the helper. A friend without calluses built his own house with this arrangement and got a good result.
Why did it go into limp home mode? Is there water in your oil? If so, it will look like tapioca and the bearings will soon be gone. You've fixed the blown frost plug and that has substantially limited the water flow. Your bilge pump may be able to handle it as your raw water cooling is not pressurized. You could install a 2nd pump to handle any excess and as a back-up. Not perfect, but you don't have to tell you guests that your boat leaks. This is not going to get any worse. One of the catalyzed liquid steel products could reduce or divert an external leak from the electricals. Meanwhile, you could list it in Craigslist and Boat Trader for $5,000 off, say $25,000; default on your loan and let the bank deal with it; park it in a bad neighborhood; or, donate it. Call the local marinas and offer it at your bargain price; they have parts at cost, surplus labor and could flip it. You could hire a mechanic by the hour on the condition that you would do the repairs together and you would be the helper. A friend without calluses built his own house with this arrangement and got a good result.
If the oil is good, JB Weld should hold it till a primo used 5.7 comes along. I put a permanent pressure gauge on the reblt Alpha 1, Gen 2 drive water pump and only see 8 psi at 3000 rpm. Shocked, I inspected the impeller I'd just put in. The engine's auto style "pump" only circulates the lake water. This is newish, uncontaminated cast iron and brazing, inert gas welding, or chemicals would have a good chance of sticking if you have access. On a high end ski boat forum, the debate was over the discount on sale for a cracked block boat. I'm just suggesting that the options be explored before jumping into a project that may not work out. http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/seawater-pump-pressure-gauge.97281/#post-1128900
Then this guy on YouTube fixed internal leaks with block sealer. He rigged a temporary heat exchanger out of a truck radiator in order to circulate and heat the block sealer on a raw water engine. The oil was clean when he finished although we don't know how long his repair lasted. Course, our marine engine only sees 10 psi as opposed to the pressure at which an auto radiator cap vents.
Checking dates in his "Comments", it seems to have held up after 2 years. Technologies I am not familiar with include metal-stitching and TIG welding in Jay Leno's garage.
MerCruiser invented a one point drain system where all the consumer has to do is turn the blue handle in the Fall and turn it back in the Spring. This guy didn't turn the blue handle!You did see post #97 right?
Yes to both these methods (when I was younger) now I pay the man $150. I just called BOATUS/GEICO about winter insurance. $25 rider IF done by a certified mechanic. Getting it just in case.It's a totally valid point. I never trusted in the 'warm up technique'. I always drained the block and hoses, removed the thermostat, then pumped the antifreeze through.
More recently I just drain the block and hoses and don't remove the thermostat or add antifreeze. In and out quickly and no risk of freezing.
I did it that way for 20 years, and of course never had a problem. Mine was an older Mercruiser and it only had 3 brass plugs, thus it was a pita, unlike the newer models with many blue plugs.I always drained the block and hoses, removed the thermostat, then pumped the antifreeze through.
No choice, cancer and radiation makes any self maintenance difficult. Used to do it all, fortunately I can afford to pay the man. I love my mechanic, old grizzled guy, mean as a junk yard dog, fair prices and knows more about boats than anyone. I trust him.I did it that way for 20 years, and of course never had a problem. Mine was an older Mercruiser and it only had 3 brass plugs, thus it was a pita, unlike the newer models with many blue plugs.
Then, I discovered the "kit" and changed my method. My preference was to leave AF in the block, just for corrosion protection, right or wrong, necessary or not.
Anyway, I always added 1 extra step....I drained a few ounces from the block's stopcock (NOT a pita) and tested the contents.
I did it that way for 15 years and never did freeze anything. Of course my test data indicated I was good to well below zero.
I guess my procedure worked...
On another note, "paying the man" was never a consideration. The ONLY friend of mine that ever had a cracked block was after he had the dealer do the work. I don't trust anyone, and rightfully so....
Good for you. I used to have a guy like that as well. Unfortunately, I outlived him and the new generation of mechanics aren't nearly as good. I won't say "not competent". A better term is "not as caring" or "not as experienced".No choice, cancer and radiation makes any self maintenance difficult. Used to do it all, fortunately I can afford to pay the man. I love my mechanic, old grizzled guy, mean as a junk yard dog, fair prices and knows more about boats than anyone. I trust him.
This guy is a legend on our river and his prices are insane old school. $150 winterize engine and drive, $350 labor to replace manifolds and risers, etc. $80 install new hot water tank, not worth to do myself.Good for you. I used to have a guy like that as well. Unfortunately, I outlived him and the new generation of mechanics aren't nearly as good. I won't say "not competent". A better term is "not as caring" or "not as experienced".
Good for you. I used to have a guy like that as well. Unfortunately, I outlived him and the new generation of mechanics aren't nearly as good. I won't say "not competent". A better term is "not as caring" or "not as experienced".