The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

Shaft seals are the bane of my existence. The seals I bought the boat with were the wrong part number, then I had the right ones installed and when the boat settled after being in the water ended up needing shaft alignments.

This year, after having to come out for trim tab issues I had the cutlass bearings replaced and my starboard seal became a nuisance and dripping a few ounces when we were out. It has never had a static leak at all.

All of that said, in the last three weeks it went from nuisance to unacceptable and was putting about 2.5 gals per hour of operation into the engine pan.

I had pretty much resigned myself to having to call my marina and have them send the mechanic to our dock.

Yesterday, I decided to take one more look myself. I noticed that the port shaft seal had the raw water fitting clocked at about 10 o'clock if you are looking aft. That pretty much lined up with the path of the raw water line.

The starboard shaft raw water fitting was at 12 o'clock causing a pretty good bend in the line and it was within 1/16" of the oil drain line going to the Reverso. Epiphany occurred, as the water has gotten much cooler 85F to 65F and elastomers have gotten harder maybe that when the shafts were turning and torque was applied maybe the fitting was being pulled be the raw water line and/or pushed by the oil drain line. Of course, that would cause the seal to break contact with the shaft collar and leak.

I am SO happy to report that by carefully loosening the clamps on the shaft log and re-clocking the seal raw water fitting to 11 o'clock which moved it away from the oil line and reduced the bend from the raw water line the leak is completely stopped. $1000 service call averted! Now to Salts Gone the engine room.

Merry Christmas!
 
Shaft seals are the bane of my existence. The seals I bought the boat with were the wrong part number, then I had the right ones installed and when the boat settled after being in the water ended up needing shaft alignments.

This year, after having to come out for trim tab issues I had the cutlass bearings replaced and my starboard seal became a nuisance and dripping a few ounces when we were out. It has never had a static leak at all.

All of that said, in the last three weeks it went from nuisance to unacceptable and was putting about 2.5 gals per hour of operation into the engine pan.

I had pretty much resigned myself to having to call my marina and have them send the mechanic to our dock.

Yesterday, I decided to take one more look myself. I noticed that the port shaft seal had the raw water fitting clocked at about 10 o'clock if you are looking aft. That pretty much lined up with the path of the raw water line.

The starboard shaft raw water fitting was at 12 o'clock causing a pretty good bend in the line and it was within 1/16" of the oil drain line going to the Reverso. Epiphany occurred, as the water has gotten much cooler 85F to 65F and elastomers have gotten harder maybe that when the shafts were turning and torque was applied maybe the fitting was being pulled be the raw water line and/or pushed by the oil drain line. Of course, that would cause the seal to break contact with the shaft collar and leak.

I am SO happy to report that by carefully loosening the clamps on the shaft log and re-clocking the seal raw water fitting to 11 o'clock which moved it away from the oil line and reduced the bend from the raw water line the leak is completely stopped. $1000 service call averted! Now to Salts Gone the engine room.

Merry Christmas!
Fantastic. Makes my next ER inspection to include a close look at shaft logs and raw water line. Double clamped log, had one clamp bust a year ago. Haven't had leaks but I inspect as much as possible after each use. Looking for water, oil, coolant, fuel and busted clamps. The only water intrusion I experienced, so far, was ER hatch cover scupper line was clogged at its outflow connection. Kept thinking rain water was getting into bilge somehow, finally discovered culprit was scupper drain line. Slight leak on rudder flanges took care of couple yrs ago on the hard (wasn't the shaft leaking but the bolted flange itself).
 
Fantastic. Makes my next ER inspection to include a close look at shaft logs and raw water line. Double clamped log, had one clamp bust a year ago. Haven't had leaks but I inspect as much as possible after each use. Looking for water, oil, coolant, fuel and busted clamps. The only water intrusion I experienced, so far, was ER hatch cover scupper line was clogged at its outflow connection. Kept thinking rain water was getting into bilge somehow, finally discovered culprit was scupper drain line. Slight leak on rudder flanges took care of couple yrs ago on the hard (wasn't the shaft leaking but the bolted flange itself).

Interesting on the rudder shaft flange.

I need to pull my cable tub and dig around under there on yhe starboard. I spuriously get some water in there. Just assumed it was the packing leaking a bit, which they do. Maybe there is a flange issue.

I also have a second large engine hatch drain there that was installed by the last owner. No matter how hard I try, it drips a bit because it doesn't drain completely based on the hose path. Hard to tell unless I get on the ER during a storm.
 
Interesting on the rudder shaft flange.

I need to pull my cable tub and dig around under there on yhe starboard. I spuriously get some water in there. Just assumed it was the packing leaking a bit, which they do. Maybe there is a flange issue.

I also have a second large engine hatch drain there that was installed by the last owner. No matter how hard I try, it drips a it because it doesn't drain completely based on the hose path. Hard to tell unless I get on the ER during a storm.
Discovery of Stbd rudder flange leak occurred on the hard when resident bilge water was seen dripping out. Wiping away the flange and rudder post revealed water coming out at the flange not the post. Couple experienced guys took a look and recommended removal and reseal. Decided to do both rudders. Flanges were removed, sandblasted, bottom connection point cleaned, and reinstalled/sealed. Purely a labor expense. I also replaced both engine raw water seacocks, just because. But, Stbd seacock actually wouldn't close fully. Next haul out for bottom paint I might also replace other seacocks, genset, A/C, waste discharge, even though they're fine but original far as I know.
 
Shaft seals are the bane of my existence. The seals I bought the boat with were the wrong part number, then I had the right ones installed and when the boat settled after being in the water ended up needing shaft alignments.

This year, after having to come out for trim tab issues I had the cutlass bearings replaced and my starboard seal became a nuisance and dripping a few ounces when we were out. It has never had a static leak at all.

All of that said, in the last three weeks it went from nuisance to unacceptable and was putting about 2.5 gals per hour of operation into the engine pan.

I had pretty much resigned myself to having to call my marina and have them send the mechanic to our dock.

Yesterday, I decided to take one more look myself. I noticed that the port shaft seal had the raw water fitting clocked at about 10 o'clock if you are looking aft. That pretty much lined up with the path of the raw water line.

The starboard shaft raw water fitting was at 12 o'clock causing a pretty good bend in the line and it was within 1/16" of the oil drain line going to the Reverso. Epiphany occurred, as the water has gotten much cooler 85F to 65F and elastomers have gotten harder maybe that when the shafts were turning and torque was applied maybe the fitting was being pulled be the raw water line and/or pushed by the oil drain line. Of course, that would cause the seal to break contact with the shaft collar and leak.

I am SO happy to report that by carefully loosening the clamps on the shaft log and re-clocking the seal raw water fitting to 11 o'clock which moved it away from the oil line and reduced the bend from the raw water line the leak is completely stopped. $1000 service call averted! Now to Salts Gone the engine room.

Merry Christmas!
That's great news! Hopefully you will get several more years out of those seals. We had an interesting experience last spring with a leaking seal and attempt to install the spare while in place. It failed and required a quick haul-out! The seals were very old anyway, so I had both replaced, along with the cutless bearings. Over 100 hours of cruising since then and everything is working great.
 
We installed SeaDek flooring a while back and I still have the Corinthian Marine flooring from the swim platform and walk-through (8 pieces). I also saved all of the screw-in snaps. Let me know if you would be interested in them.

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That's great news! Hopefully you will get several more years out of those seals. We had an interesting experience last spring with a leaking seal and attempt to install the spare while in place. It failed and required a quick haul-out! The seals were very old anyway, so I had both replaced, along with the cutless bearings. Over 100 hours of cruising since then and everything is working great.

Sadly, our port seal started acting up. Tried my little trick from the stbd, no luck. After we got back to the dock, I tried loosening the clamps at the carbon seal and letting that seal possibly real align with the collar.

It isn't leaking until above about 1800 RPM, arguably when boost really comes on and significant torque is applied. Will run it again next week for my 'weekly' mechanical exercise effort and see if that fixes it. Next step is to loosen, do the 600 grit sand on the seal and collar, and re-compress. After that, the call of shame to our mechanic.

Pretty frustrated that the port wasn't leaking at all, and then it literally started about a week after I got the stbd to cooperate.

Crazy on the in-place attempt. Assume you took the coupling off and shoved some rags in the shaft log on the outside?
 
So, found these. I pulled the trigger. https://www.tobatechnology.com/product-page/marine-digital-gauges

They work with all traditional resitance type senders and have a lot of capability to do alarming and other nice features.

Interestingly, emailed FP today to ask about guage/instrument panels, and they don't have ours. So, I am going to send my originals and they are going to template them so everyone else will be able to get new ones if needed.
 
So, found these. I pulled the trigger. https://www.tobatechnology.com/product-page/marine-digital-gauges

They work with all traditional resitance type senders and have a lot of capability to do alarming and other nice features.

Interestingly, emailed FP today to ask about guage/instrument panels, and they don't have ours. So, I am going to send my originals and they are going to template them so everyone else will be able to get new ones if needed.
Have you tried Tecnographic sponsor of this site?
 
I haven't. Have you used them?
I have not but tech at my marina said they are the original supplier to Sea Ray. He said they’re a little bit more money but holes in dash should line up.
 
Sadly, our port seal started acting up. Tried my little trick from the stbd, no luck. After we got back to the dock, I tried loosening the clamps at the carbon seal and letting that seal possibly real align with the collar.

It isn't leaking until above about 1800 RPM, arguably when boost really comes on and significant torque is applied. Will run it again next week for my 'weekly' mechanical exercise effort and see if that fixes it. Next step is to loosen, do the 600 grit sand on the seal and collar, and re-compress. After that, the call of shame to our mechanic.

Pretty frustrated that the port wasn't leaking at all, and then it literally started about a week after I got the stbd to cooperate.

Crazy on the in-place attempt. Assume you took the coupling off and shoved some rags in the shaft log on the outside?
Not sure how to access the shaft log from the outside. The seals were probably originals (Tides Marine). When we cut & removed the lip seal, with water filling the sump below the engine, the spare would not go in easily. We eventually got it in place, but the leak was worse than before. Not catastrophic, but the boat yard immediately hauled the boat out.
 
Not sure how to access the shaft log from the outside. The seals were probably originals (Tides Marine). When we cut & removed the lip seal, with water filling the sump below the engine, the spare would not go in easily. We eventually got it in place, but the leak was worse than before. Not catastrophic, but the boat yard immediately hauled the boat out.
I was thinking I could talk my kids into packing a towel into the shaft log on the outside to slow water JIC the worst happened.

I signaled retreat and scheduled a haul today after messing with the port seal and two sea trials. Tempted to do both seals (again) while we're out. Also, contemplating biting the bullet and having the bottom soda blasted and getting new bottom paint. I did not have that in my budget this year.
 
+1 on Technographics. Expensive, and there was a 4 wk lead time, but they were perfect.

So, FP is promising a 7 day turn. Also, they are excited to get a 450 EB set in as they don't have the template. Probably going to go that way just based on FPs responsiveness at this point. I emailed and in less than an hour got a reply with the way forward. I am sure Technographics is good too. I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

This happened today, was incredibly tedious. Shipping them Monday.

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I was thinking I could talk my kids into packing a towel into the shaft log on the outside to slow water JIC the worst happened.

I signaled retreat and scheduled a haul today after messing with the port seal and two sea trials. Tempted to do both seals (again) while we're out. Also, contemplating biting the bullet and having the bottom soda blasted and getting new bottom paint. I did not have that in my budget this year.

After being really annoyed about having to haul and buy two new seals, I realized it is likely my bellows that have either been overheated or somehow have hardened into their compressed shape as they do not expand back to their original shape. Didn't realize it until I was researching a possible alternative, but PYI has a maintenance kit for $145 on Citi Marine that replaces everything but the carbon flange and stainless collar. Dropping it here for anyone else who may not want to buy a full seal because their bellows have been abused.

 
Hello everyone! I'm looking for the post for the repair to engine room vent. Looking to help a friend with repairing the rotted core and epoxy fill repair. He is looking to make similar repair around port hole window on his tiara. would like to share link with him.

Thanks, Dan
 

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