The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

It's the "If money wasn't an object" part that gets me every time...:), but thats a great idea! I'll start looking around south AL and NW Fl for someone that might be interested...

As an update to the electrical problem with starboard starter I was having.... swapped the switch out at the helm and everything has been working flawlessly. One more item off the maintenance list. Now.. to change that inop forward aft bilge... Gotta have arms about 8 ft. long and fingers to match... I seriously think I'm going to have to remove the battery platform or one of the holding tank pumps (maybe the whole thing!). Any tricks or thoughts? Excuse the grime...View attachment 147070
My bilge pump in that area is in the same spot. Luckily I haven’t had to change it, but cleaning it was a chore.
 
Here is another 450 that came up for sale in my marina that I didn't know existed. "Legal Tender" is a 2003, two stateroom model that is listed at $240,000. HIN# SERP5724J203. I added it to the registry on the first page. Now I have to do a recon mission to see if I can check it out in person. :cool:
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I was able to look at the 2003 450 this past Monday with the broker. This was my first time on a two stateroom model. I knew about the large salon, but I didn’t realize the midship stateroom is different. The bed is slightly smaller and there is a nightstand between the bed and the TV cabinet. The main breaker panel is also in a different location.

I only took a couple of pictures. Here is what I’m guessing is the original “Sea Ray Navigator” computer from 2003:
IMG_3083.jpeg

And check out the strange condition of the HIN#. Maybe there was a repair and extra gelcoat was applied, but the numbers were not legible.
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I have a friend who agreed with me, 240k is a little steep for it based on the condition.
 
I was able to look at the 2003 450 this past Monday with the broker. This was my first time on a two stateroom model. I knew about the large salon, but I didn’t realize the midship stateroom is different. The bed is slightly smaller and there is a nightstand between the bed and the TV cabinet. The main breaker panel is also in a different location.

I only took a couple of pictures. Here is what I’m guessing is the original “Sea Ray Navigator” computer from 2003:
View attachment 147082
And check out the strange condition of the HIN#. Maybe there was a repair and extra gelcoat was applied, but the numbers were not legible.
View attachment 147083
I have a friend who agreed with me, 240k is a little steep for it based on the condition.

That hull ID is not amazing.
 
There is a hardtop 450 in Huntington Harbor that is fairly close. I can try to take some pictures for you maybe this next weekend.

That would be awesome but please don't go out of your way. Mostly interested in the mount points for load bearing and structure of the frame. Just kicking it around right now but I've got hardtop envy of a few boats in my marina....
 
That would be awesome but please don't go out of your way. Mostly interested in the mount points for load bearing and structure of the frame. Just kicking it around right now but I've got hardtop envy of a few boats in my marina....
I don't mind getting the pictures for you. A mutual friend told me that the owner recently sold the boat due to some health issues. Here are some pictures that I have of hardtop boats:
SeaRay450EBdisney2.jpg



SeaRayHardTop.jpg


SeaRayHardtop2.jpg


SeaRayHardtop3.jpg


Here is Jack O'Brien's boat. He has a custom frame, similar to what is used with a hardtop, but it uses Stamoid as a cover. Jack should have some better pictures of his frame that he could share with you.
SeaRayHardtop4.jpg
 
I don't mind getting the pictures for you. A mutual friend told me that the owner recently sold the boat due to some health issues. Here are some pictures that I have of hardtop boats:
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Here is Jack O'Brien's boat. He has a custom frame, similar to what is used with a hardtop, but it uses Stamoid as a cover. Jack should have some better pictures of his frame that he could share with you.
View attachment 147135

@MarginCall that one on a lift is in Shalimar near Two George's Marina.
 
Sunrise on the hook. Will weigh anchor after breakfast and head out into the Gulf adjacent Pensacola Beach for the Blue Angel's Beach Airshow.

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Floating dock slip at Captiva Island Yacht Club. Dock also serves as a kayak launch. Had my ProMariner battery charger/inverter quit the other day. 5am, CO alarms went off, and everything else on port engine battery which went to zero. New install ProNautic 1260P, all good, back to normal. No idea of original aged of failed unit but likely more than 10yrs.
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I don't mind getting the pictures for you. A mutual friend told me that the owner recently sold the boat due to some health issues. Here are some pictures that I have of hardtop boats:
View attachment 147130


View attachment 147132

View attachment 147133

View attachment 147134

Here is Jack O'Brien's boat. He has a custom frame, similar to what is used with a hardtop, but it uses Stamoid as a cover. Jack should have some better pictures of his frame that he could share with you.
View attachment 147135
I do have closer images of the framework if anyone might like to see them.
 
I do have closer images of the framework if anyone might like to see them.
Hey Jack, I'd love to see them. I'll DM you my email if you don't mind. Mostly interested in the mount points. Are you happy with the Stamoid(?) cover? I am intersted in something able to hold flexible solar panels that doesn't break the bank.
 
Hey Jack, I'd love to see them. I'll DM you my email if you don't mind. Mostly interested in the mount points. Are you happy with the Stamoid(?) cover? I am intersted in something able to hold flexible solar panels that doesn't break the bank.
I'll prob just take a few close pics later today. Relative to mounting panels, perhaps Starboard but not sure how well it holds up to heat & especially FL sun.
 
Ok, I almost lost my toes this weekend on the boat! Deck hatch gas shocks failed! I caught it just prior to lopping off my piggies, they all remained at home!! I've looked through the post and thought I saw the part # for gas shocks but I',m at a loss trying to find them. I need the stainless version of the gas shocks to replace and upgrade my engine room deck hatch!! Thanks in advance and hope everyone is having a great boating season!!!
 
Ok, I almost lost my toes this weekend on the boat! Deck hatch gas shocks failed! I caught it just prior to lopping off my piggies, they all remained at home!! I've looked through the post and thought I saw the part # for gas shocks but I',m at a loss trying to find them. I need the stainless version of the gas shocks to replace and upgrade my engine room deck hatch!! Thanks in advance and hope everyone is having a great boating season!!!

Here you go.

Lift Supports Depot Qty (2) 10mm Cup Ends "Stainless Steel" 20" extended X 60lbs 0630BR 12203 210471 21-0471 3966BF 4528QG 530060 6153BE 8195519 8502IV 901271 C1614875 C16-14875 C1615019 https://a.co/d/fqp4nGQ

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...ridge-owners-club.102401/page-56#post-1329089
 
Hey Jack, I'd love to see them. I'll DM you my email if you don't mind. Mostly interested in the mount points. Are you happy with the Stamoid(?) cover? I am intersted in something able to hold flexible solar panels that doesn't break the bank.
Yes, very pleased with Stamoid. Keeping the top clean is a challenge. Stamoid cleaner only, Imar products or void warranty is said. Saltaway or similar I've had mixed reports to use post warranty as a spray on rinse off. Here are better images of structure 1st owner had custom made.
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The Admiral was taking a shower recently and said to me that one of the clips on the porthole window was loose. I went in to investigate with my phillip head screwdriver. I turned the offending center screw and it snapped. Upon closer inspection, the screw was very rusty and deteriorated after 25 years of service. I’m pretty sure I could take the whole assembly apart, replace the screw and deal with the rust issues on the smaller screws, but I could see that being a multi day job. I think I’ll spend some boat bucks on a new unit. Has anyone here replaced one? Here is the best price I could find so far from Defender Marine:
IMG_3119.jpeg
 
The Admiral was taking a shower recently and said to me that one of the clips on the porthole window was loose. I went in to investigate with my phillip head screwdriver. I turned the offending center screw and it snapped. Upon closer inspection, the screw was very rusty and deteriorated after 25 years of service. I’m pretty sure I could take the whole assembly apart, replace the screw and deal with the rust issues on the smaller screws, but I could see that being a multi day job. I think I’ll spend some boat bucks on a new unit. Has anyone here replaced one? Here is the best price I could find so far from Defender Marine:
View attachment 147425

I have had mine out and resealed, as you mentioned, rusty screws are scary, and so is possible rot. The last one I pulled the balsa was good and I just resealed it.

When I do mine again, I will have some penetrating epoxy handy, and regardless of balsa condition, I will inject some around the port light. I will also seal the pentrations with fairing compound before re-installing the port light.
 
I have had mine out and resealed, as you mentioned, rusty screws are scary, and so is possible rot. The last one I pulled the balsa was good and I just resealed it.

When I do mine again, I will have some penetrating epoxy handy, and regardless of balsa condition, I will inject some around the port light. I will also seal the pentrations with fairing compound before re-installing the port light.
I have pulled all of the outer rings on these port light windows and resealed and did not see any rot, however, I really like your idea about sealing with epoxy just in case. I had never heard of "fairing compound" before today. I have repaired a few surfboards and worked on the fiberglass top of my old VW Thing so I did a quick search and found this video. Fairing compound appears to be similar to spot putty used in autobody repair. I like it!
 
I have pulled all of the outer rings on these port light windows and resealed and did not see any rot, however, I really like your idea about sealing with epoxy just in case. I had never heard of "fairing compound" before today. I have repaired a few surfboards and worked on the fiberglass top of my old VW Thing so I did a quick search and found this video. Fairing compound appears to be similar to spot putty used in autobody repair. I like it!

I use Formula 27 from Evercoat...a little more aggressive than spot putty, but not as hard (or red) as Bondo. It makes for a nice smooth penetration. Even after epoxy, the pentrations on our boat aren't level with the gel coat. Using the fairing allows for the pentration to be smooth and level all the way around. My theory is that if you lose seal around the port light you have a better chance of it not going into the hull if there is less chance for puddling.

Used this method on my ER vents and all my exterior hatches.
 
I paid a visit to the boat before I placed the window order. Turns out the window I posted above with the single hinge is used in the master stateroom. Bomar also makes a double hinge version in the same size that is used in both of the heads and the mid and aft staterooms. Here is my broken unit and the proper replacement. I did notice my window has 10 of the small screws and the new one only has 9. :confused:
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