Tiny leak in between glassed block and hull - by seacocks

[psubill78]

Leak between glassed block and hull by seacocks - replacing seacock and intake strain

I found a tiny crack in between the hull, and the glassed in wood block (factory) where the seacocks are for the AC and genset water inlets.

Im thinking that one (or both) of the strainers under the boat are leaking. What is the best method of repair here? Is it as simple as replacing both strainers and making sure the 4200 or 5200 is adequately applied?

Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions....

 

[fwebster]

How complicated the repair is can only be determined after you remove the sea cocks. It is possible that water has entered the fiberglass substrait and a void between layers has been created by the water pressure. The sooner you get to the repair, the easier and cheaper the fix will be. With some luck, the leak is above the fiberglass instead of into it. Then the fix is inside the boat and as easy as grinding out the glass, removing the wood mounting block, drying out the hull, replacing the old wood and reglassing the floor of the bilge. A worst case would be if the leak has gone undetected and has created a void in the fiberglass......even then, this shouldn't be a serious or expensive repair, but it should be done by an experienced fiberglass guy since the structure is involved and the cost of a do-over is high.

 

[psubill78]

Can you help me confirm how to remove the seacocks?

It looks like the strainer screws onto the seacock then the seacock has a few screws that go into the wood block. So - to remove the seacock, would the process be, remove the 3 screws at the base of the seacock (inside the boat), unscrew it from there, then the strainer will just fall out?

 

[fwebster]

The correct method all depends upon the type sea cocks you have. Post a photo and we can help.............

 

[psubill78]

OK, getting the pictures I took today online isn't working well.


So the scoop on the bottom of the boat looks like this: http://www.apollovalves.com/_products/65-bf_n8/TS_65-BF8_BN8.pdf
The seacock looks like this: http://www.apollovalves.com/_products/78-sea/TS_78-sea.pdf

I went to the boat today, and removed the 3 screws at the base of the seacock - couldn't get anything to budge. I tried to remove the 4 screws on the strainer, nothing there either.

Now, the picture above for the strainer is the AC one. The genset doesn't have the scoop, it looks just like a hole with a strainer on top... It's flat.

At a loss at what I need to 'force' to get this out... any tips/tricks/etc?

 

[psubill78]

Has anyone removed/replaced these, and can give any advice? Am I just not putting enough muscle into it? I don't want to 'break' anything further...

 

[src]

There is obviously some form of sealant holding it on. I've seen recommendations to use a putty knife to carefully break the seal around the fitting, but there is also going to be sealant in the thru-hull bore as well. But it really depends on what they used. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in.

 

[psubill78]

I am rehashing my thread, as I've got the boat out of the water again, and going to try to do this over winter.

I'm lookng to talk to someone who's actually done this type of replacement.

When the boat was out this summer, here is what I tried....

* Removed the 4 screws from the scoop on the underside of the hull, i tried to get this unit to turn/twist. No go. (I put the screws back in with silicone after attempting)
* I attempted to remove the screws from the seacock that go into the backing block, no luck getting that bad boy to twist either.

Let's say I just muscle the crap out of this and get it apart, what is the right order of installation back in?

Would I put the strainer thru the hull, seal and screw it it, and then have a friend hold it - while i screw on the seacock tight? It would seem as if I mount the top first, that the strainger might not face the 'right' way after tightening?

This seems like a painfully easy project, but I just can't figure out how to get it apart!!!

 

[Happy Hour IV]

If you look a little more closely I think you will find the following.

The strainer goes thru the hull then thru the wood block.
A nut with flange then screws onto the strainer tight to the block
The seacock then screws onto the protruding threads of the strainer
The screws are then installed to stabilize the seacock. Many times they are not installed or used for electrical bonding points.

Removal is the reverse

The actual leak is mostly likely between the outer hull surface and the strainer. Sealant failure, eletrolysis, failed strainer or cracked glass.

The wood block was never intended to be a seal when glassed in so the exterior leak just finds its way between the strainer and hull then between the hull and block. The wood block just helps to properly support the whole mess and provide a good surface for the nut on the strainer.

Soak the threads on the seacock and strainer with PBlaster. repeat 24 hours later. Pipe wrench on the seacock to remove. Hopefully the sealant is still good enough to hold the straineer. If not try to prevent the strainer from turning.

Once the seacock is off remove the nut holding the strainer in.

Now the hard part if the strainer did not turn. You have to break the sealant. If 5200 you may want to google removing the strainer as to how the seal can be broken.

If any other sealant you can probably use a putty knife between the strainer and hull while rocking the strainer from inside.

 

[psubill78]

The strainer goes thru the hull then thru the wood block.
A nut with flange then screws onto the strainer tight to the block
The seacock then screws onto the protruding threads of the strainer
The screws are then installed to stabilize the seacock. Many times they are not installed or used for electrical bonding points.

This may be the key... I didn't realize that the 'strength' of the strainger was based on a nut at the top of that. I had assumed that it would be tight into the strainer to make it strong. I also couldn't see in any picture where it showed that the little 'triangle' piece with the screws covered over the bold.

If the above is correct, then my removal should be:
1) Remove all the hoses on the inside
2) Remove the 3 screws
3) Muscle off the seacock. This should expose the nut you speak of.
4) Remove 4 screws on strainer, then remove nut
5) Have a beer.

I assumed (incorrectly again) that the water tight ability of the mating of the strainer to seacock was in the pressure of having those 3 very tight.

By the looks, this is all sea ray original from 1998 - - so I don't think it was installed with 5200...

The actual leak is mostly likely between the outer hull surface and the strainer. Sealant failure, eletrolysis, failed strainer or cracked glass.

You are on the money. There was a gap in the sealant. Last season, we had the boat out, and I did a poor man's repair by breaking a tine on the strainer, and put in some silicone. The leak was soo minor, and it enabled us to do it 'right' this winter. My ghetto repair did hold for the season, but I want to make this right.

Thanks!!!
Bill

 

[psubill78]

An update on this for future reference.

There was no nut. So, the intake strainer was held in by 4 screws, sealant between it and the hull, and in the hole. The strainer screwed into the seacock. Looks like they had a boat load of sealant around the base of the seacock.

Now that I pulled it all out, and found no rot/soft spots, I'm good to replace once the new strainer gets here. I'm thinking 4200 as the replacement sealant...

 

[SkippersList.com]

Go to west Marine (or any boat store that sells the thru hull fixture) look at the ones on the shelf to see how its put together ... just a though. ;-)