sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,191
- Boat Info
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I get the idea that you can do it. Our insurance does not cover in the water storage. Don't get why that is not an issue on the east coast. We have bubbled, protected harbors too.I’m in for the winter. Everything is winterized and will shrink wrap it sometime in December. Dock de-icers will be installed soon. I see no reason to haul every winter in a protected CT saltwater harbor.
Been doing it for years.
My insurance policy is for 12 months.
My layup is 10/15 to 4/15. It's insurance, they have less severe conditions/risk.Ours are too, but, they specify layup November 1st through March 31st. It is not that we do not have coverage, just have terms that require layup.
This is our norm, we want to know why your norm is different.
MM
When I had my 300DA in DC area my insurance specified layup Dec 1 - March 1, but "layup" did not mean haulout. It just meant you can't use the boat and be covered for a claim. I kept it in the water and used it as my man cave for watching sports.Ours are too, but, they specify layup November 1st through March 31st. It is not that we do not have coverage, just have terms that require layup.
This is our norm, we want to know why your norm is different.
MM
Ours specifies layup on the hard. Like someone said, it's probably about minimizing risk.When I had my 300DA in DC area my insurance specified layup Dec 1 - March 1, but "layup" did not mean haulout. It just meant you can't use the boat and be covered for a claim. I kept it in the water and used it as my man cave for watching sports.
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Ours specifies layup on the hard. Like someone said, it's probably about minimizing risk.
If we lived in a protected area, I would look at that. We have 2 miles of open water to our west and about the same from the east. When the ice goes out in the Spring it can do damage. We had a 60 foot piling snapped off at the lake bed level a few years ago from moving ice. That flow would have destroyed our boat. There are a few homes around here on canals and protected bays. In the water storage might work in those locations.I'm sure you could have the layup requirement removed for an additional premium. My policy covers inland lakes only. When I take the boat to the coast in the summer I call NBOA and they endorse the policy to permit coastal boating. Cost is about $100.
I would be more concerned about snow loads. I've seen BoatUS pics of boats sunk because of it. I assume that with shrinkwrap and the heaters that the snows melts?"Ocean water freezes just like freshwater, but at lower temperatures. Fresh water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit but seawater freezes at about 28.4 degrees Fahrenheit , because of the salt in it. When seawater freezes, however, the ice contains very little salt because only the water part freezes"
We're still in. We leave her in the water all winter after blowing out the water systems and putting 7 heaters inside the boat and doubling up the lines. She's all tucked in now for the winter.
How long does it take to fill the marina back up? Is it dramatic watching the water flow in or does it happen so gradually that it slowly comes up?We boat on an Army Corps flood control lake... they drop it 77 feet for winter pool. In that picture, it's down ~54 feet. My slip (the one furthest out, at the very right, inside) sits in about 40 feet of water at summer pool.
Insurance answer is as simple as money.
I agree 100% that conditions dictate the ability to remain in-water over the winter. My marina has no hard freeze or ice flows to worry about and it’s a working harbor all year long.
Last time in stayed in the water, I was playing with my Harbor Freight infrared heat gun on some prolonged cold snaps middle winter.
Amazing how warm the hull was below the waterline in the ER.
The boat is shrink wrapped and winterized with no heaters on.
Great since the answer is "simple as money" what causes them to charge more money if a boat is left in the water in the Great Lakes?