Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
- Engines
- :
All done. Ready to spray color matched gel coat. Add lights, solar panel and install.
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View attachment 120380 View attachment 120381 Bottom photo. Topside with rolled on base coat of bright white gel coat. I use this as a primer to look and repair imperfections (the bumps are where there were pin holes. I use gel coat to fill them in).
Top photo is the bottom side ready for a base layer of bright white.
I have a local guy that can make a mold out of the top and will store it. Any time I want he will lay up top. I declined because it will be a while before there is an opening in the shop and I don’t want to wait.wonder if you could 3D print a hardtop with one of these guys and spray it with gel coat:
https://www.e-ci.com/baam
of course, I’m not sure what the cost model looks like and there’s still some finish work, but a lot less fairing and fitting/refitting.
maybe some guy at Cincinnati is a Sea Ray guy…
The title of this thread is spiking my OCD. Is there any way to correct the thread name? Missing the “R” in Sundancer
Here are my thoughts - there are a variety of forces that will be imposed on that joint; compression, tensile, and shear. Typically the forces are also combined. Secondly, there are shock forces to be considered also. All of these include both dead and live loads. Adhesives are great for several of the combined forces but where they fall short are in tensile and shear dead loads as well as shear live / dynamic loads and any significant shock loads. This is where the mechanical fasteners supplement. Most adhesives like 5200 are a mechanical bond; you know that as it can be completely removed without impact to the substrate. I would ensure there are mechanical fasteners in combination with the adhesive.Done!
View attachment 124319 View attachment 124320
Now it’s time to mount. I’m trying to get opinions.
For mounting on the front half I used polyester resin. I wet out some chop-strand mat and sandwiched that between the two parts. For good measure I also added a bead of 5200. That has worked well thus far. However, it was very stressful due to limited working time of resin. It could have been a disaster.
I don’t plan on separating the two parts EVER.
I could do the rear half the same way, however, someone told me they thought 5200 alone would be enough.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
I like the idea because I would have more working time before it kicks.
Is there a chemical bond with the 5200 or is it just mechanical?
Correct me if I’m wrong but the resin chemically bonds and the two pieces sort of melt into one.
I would like to hear some other options and opinions.
Thank you.
Finally on and in the water. Still need to caulk it. View attachment 127542 View attachment 127543 View attachment 127544
Wow! Beautiful job!Finally on and in the water. Still need to caulk it. View attachment 127542 View attachment 127543 View attachment 127544
Could you please direct me to the “thread tools”. I can’t find itThat looks AMAZING!!
And, I was able to change my spelling on a recent thread title by clicking on "Thread tools" & pressing edit title.
I always use my phone to access CSR so this is the mobile view of my latest thread. The "thread tools" is just to the left of "watch thread". Idk how it looks on a computer though.Could you please direct me to the “thread tools”. I can’t find it
Looks like your site sponsorship may have expired? Maybe its a feature that requires being a member?Weird. I don’t have that on my phone