40 sedan bridge forum

Paul, did you pull off the transom rub rail and recaulk the box top overlap? I did that and found many large gaps where the factory seal had disintegrated.

When you clean all that stuff off the bottom of the floor does it come back? Or is that an accumulation over time?
 
I found some flexible moulding to trim out the cabinet bases. It's from a company called Resinart. I am just going with shoe moulding. Now to stain it and attach it. It's just dry fit in this picture.
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my3sons said:
Paul, have you tried to remove the rubber elbow that you show above? It's quite pliable and was relatively easy to get off when I needed to crawl back into to the other side and pull out the auto pilot pump to stop a steering leak. once the elbow was off, I was able to free the pipe to the muffler without too much trouble. If I remember right, the hose came free of the muffler instead of off the pipe, but mission accomplished.
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that molding looks good. Its hard to tell, but is it tall enough to cover all the screw holes?
 
PMC said:
that molding looks good. Its hard to tell, but is it tall enough to cover all the screw holes?
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No, it is not. I am just going to fill them with colored putty. Your eye can hardly pick them out as it is. Although they are a slight raised hump since Sea Ray didn't pre drill.
 
cwiert said:
When I bought my boat in October, the swim platform was an absolute mess. I think the PO used it as a fender. Here's some pics...

View attachment 44129View attachment 44130View attachment 44131View attachment 44132

Not wanting to spend $5K on a new platform, I decided to try to fix it. I fiberglassed behind the platform to add the strength back to it, and I used West Systems epoxy with a fairing filler to fill the holes/cracks in the front. Here's what it looked like with the filler...

View attachment 44133

After lots of sanding, more epoxy, more sanding, etc, I tried to spray gel coat it. That didn't work out so well. I couldn't get the color right, and it wasn't covering properly. Plus the gelcoat is pretty expensive to constantly be doing trial and error. (BTW - I called Sea Ray for the color of the boat, but for some reason, the platform is a little lighter than the boat, so the color doesn't match perfectly with the rest of the boat. I never noticed that before). Anyway, I was at the hardware store and decided to pick up some paint, to try that instead. The color match was perfect. I think it came out great. Is it perfect, no, but it's pretty darn good, and WAY better than it was before. I think I can live with it like this, and maybe next year I'll hire a pro to finish it off with a proper gel coat.

View attachment 44134View attachment 44135View attachment 44136

I also polished the props today. They look like new. Pretty cool.

View attachment 44137
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Sorry, I'm a little late with this, since you are probably back in the water. It certainly looks like the PO did use the platform as a bumper. I would have all the through bolts in the transom checked for leakage. I was a broker on a survey, the boats platform looked a lot like yours, there was very high levels of moisture in the transom. By the way your repair looks great.
 
ZZ13 said:
Paul, did you pull off the transom rub rail and recaulk the box top overlap? I did that and found many large gaps where the factory seal had disintegrated.

When you clean all that stuff off the bottom of the floor does it come back? Or is that an accumulation over time?
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I only caulked the vertical transom seam....it was leaking. When I clean it, I'll let you know ;)
 
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my3sons said:
Paul, have you tried to remove the rubber elbow that you show above? It's quite pliable and was relatively easy to get off when I needed to crawl back into to the other side and pull out the auto pilot pump to stop a steering leak. once the elbow was off, I was able to free the pipe to the muffler without too much trouble. If I remember right, the hose came free of the muffler instead of off the pipe, but mission accomplished.
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I got a closer look at it today, and I should be able to squeeze in. I'll try the elbow next.
 
I'm on the hard now, although I may not have time to do this before l launch. I do think the exhaust tube is above the water line.
 
PMC said:
I'm on the hard now, although I may not have time to do this before l launch. I do think the exhaust tube is above the water line.
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My elbow was partially below water level. I would assume yours is the same. When I talked to a SeaRay shop, they said they wouldn't recommend removing the exhaust hoses while in the water. I understand some do, they plug the hole with a ball or fender. To me, the bilge pumps can't keep up with a 6" hole...
 
mjmason1 said:
My elbow was partially below water level. I would assume yours is the same. When I talked to a SeaRay shop, they said they wouldn't recommend removing the exhaust hoses while in the water. I understand some do, they plug the hole with a ball or fender. To me, the bilge pumps can't keep up with a 6" hole...
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Where was your waterline in relation to the exhaust port (outside the boat)? How much fuel and water did you have? I know when I'm heavy, my exhaust is touching the water.
 
PMC said:
Where was your waterline in relation to the exhaust port (outside the boat)? How much fuel and water did you have? I know when I'm heavy, my exhaust is touching the water.[/QUOT

The 6" exhaust is the underwater exhaust. The 3" goes out the side and is higher. I don't think my 3" is ever under water. With full fuel and water it comes close.
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ZZ13 said:
Stairs are in. Hardest part was getting the top tread level with the salon floor. Had to add spacers to the existing mounting cleats. I might see if I can find a little rubber "T" transition to slip into the gap. Now I gotta finish caulking down the floor and installing the trim where the carpeted trim was.
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Bill, how did you re-attach the steps? Did you screw through the vinyl?
 
Has anybody replaced the striping / 400 Sedan decals on their bridge? Mine is due to be redone and my plan is to reach out to the local vinyl guy. However, I figured I would check to see if anybody has had a shop successfully do the retrofit. If so, it may be much easier to buy the vinyl from your shop if they still have the artwork on file.

Thanks in advance!
 
Your best choice is to have them made out of vinyl. Depending on how much time you want to invest, they are easy to make...I've done it before. Personally I liked the look without, and removed them.
 
mjmason1 said:
Bill, how did you re-attach the steps? Did you screw through the vinyl?
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Mike, there are existing wooden blocks secured to the galley floor and the top edge of the salon floor. I shimmed up the stairs at the top of the upper block to get the top step even with the salon floor and at the bottom to eliminate play there. The flooring at the top of the steps is not permanently glued. It's removable. The leftover contact cement from before was still tacky and keeps the floor piece in place. So I screwed down from the top, recessed the screw heads, then set the flooring piece over top that. At the bottom I just screwed into the block through the same screw holes that were used before. I did not try to hide those screws. I just decorated them a bit with those screw ring things. You can see them in the picture below. So the whole thing is still easily removable.
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We are redoing our flooring. After taking the carpet off the stairs, it was obvious we couldn't use them. So we made new stairs.

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I don't know why they are sideways and how to flip them. They are normal on my computer!
 
I'm looking to step up the sound system and add a sub woofer in the cockpit. I dont see any room where a 10" sub would fit, and want some creative options. Thoughts?
 
PMC said:
I'm looking to step up the sound system and add a sub woofer in the cockpit. I dont see any room where a 10" sub would fit, and want some creative options. Thoughts?
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I have looked into it. I was going to get an 8" rather than a 10" to increase options. I have seen them added below the cockpit shower.
 
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