PlayDate
Well-Known Member
Okay so Starboard is one of the old fireboat engines and I believe it is raw water cooled (no antifreeze).
I'm still stuck on that the rust on that head is relatively new and somewhat contained. The only event that corresponds to that is the replacement of the manifolds and risers before you made the trip. Sure it could be another undiscovered problem but I don't think so. It could be as simple as the riser bolts lost their torque during the trip which is common if you don't use a threadlocker or grade 8 lockwashers.
Regarding testing. In an ideal world, we bolt the riser onto the exhaust manifold with a gasket and rig up something to stop the air (plug) from leaking out the riser port entering the exhaust hose. Block off the raw water ports except for one connected to an air pump that will give you 15 psi. Dump the entire thing into a water trough (its heavy I know) and turn the pump on.
While it is possible you have a crack my money is on a bad seal at the riser gasket. It is a foolproof test since the riser and exhaust manifold are bolted together. However....I believe it will pass this test. Far more likely is the riser bolts lost torque and allowed water into the cylinders.
While you will not find it on the internet (except on CSR) I have learned my lesson regarding riser bolts and gaskets. Others might disagree which is okay but this is how I stop that problem from happening.
1) I use Red Permatex RTV High temperature sealant on both sides of the gasket to seal the gasket to the surfaces. I use the fiber gaskets not the graphite variety.
2) I use grade 8 bolts and grade 8 lock washers to bolt the riser on to the exhaust manifold
3) I used red thread locker on the riser bolts.
4) I torque the bolts in a cross pattern to 25 lbs.
I check the torque on them again after an hour of use. The reason why is because the bolts are long and will expand during a few heat cycles even with the lock washer and thread locker.
After a few cycles and checking the torque.....it stays constant.
Just my thoughts.....
I'm still stuck on that the rust on that head is relatively new and somewhat contained. The only event that corresponds to that is the replacement of the manifolds and risers before you made the trip. Sure it could be another undiscovered problem but I don't think so. It could be as simple as the riser bolts lost their torque during the trip which is common if you don't use a threadlocker or grade 8 lockwashers.
Regarding testing. In an ideal world, we bolt the riser onto the exhaust manifold with a gasket and rig up something to stop the air (plug) from leaking out the riser port entering the exhaust hose. Block off the raw water ports except for one connected to an air pump that will give you 15 psi. Dump the entire thing into a water trough (its heavy I know) and turn the pump on.
While it is possible you have a crack my money is on a bad seal at the riser gasket. It is a foolproof test since the riser and exhaust manifold are bolted together. However....I believe it will pass this test. Far more likely is the riser bolts lost torque and allowed water into the cylinders.
While you will not find it on the internet (except on CSR) I have learned my lesson regarding riser bolts and gaskets. Others might disagree which is okay but this is how I stop that problem from happening.
1) I use Red Permatex RTV High temperature sealant on both sides of the gasket to seal the gasket to the surfaces. I use the fiber gaskets not the graphite variety.
2) I use grade 8 bolts and grade 8 lock washers to bolt the riser on to the exhaust manifold
3) I used red thread locker on the riser bolts.
4) I torque the bolts in a cross pattern to 25 lbs.
I check the torque on them again after an hour of use. The reason why is because the bolts are long and will expand during a few heat cycles even with the lock washer and thread locker.
After a few cycles and checking the torque.....it stays constant.
Just my thoughts.....