300 Sundancer questions.

Nater Potater said:
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Wow she's built like a tank!
 
JimFromMD said:
We are repowering up to 5.7 crate engines but keeping the Bravo II drives. Apparently 5.0s are very difficult to get these days. We looked into 6.2s but decided that was overkill for our needs and additional money which we wouldn't get back. That combined with some potential canvas needs in a season or two, we decided to leave that additional 6.2 money for the future.

We've honestly never been disappointed with the performance of the 5.0 package and Bravo II drives. You often see claims in forums that 5.0/BII combo is underpowered and a dog performance wise, but we never had any issues. She takes a bit longer to get up on plane with full fuel and water, but that's to be expected and only really noticeable if we have a few more people on board than normal. A little trim tab helps in that case.

We compared with another owner with 5.7s and BIII drives and to keep the approximate same speed, we were running 100rpms higher. To be fair, our boat is lift kept so we aren't dealing with a dirty bottom / algae / barnacles creating additional drag which may be a factor driving those with different opinions.
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Ok that is good to know. Both of the 5.0s on my boat were replaced before I got it. I can get on plane with the 5.0 (combined 520 hp) and I don't find it to be underpowered. But you know what they say: there's no replacement for displacement
 
Water heater- replaced mine last spring. The bottom was all rusted out. Was going to raise it up, but …
1. The old was steel, the new is aluminum; i dont think rust will be an issue.
2. The old one was 30yo. I should live so long to need another replacement.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Water heater- replaced mine last spring. The bottom was all rusted out. Was going to raise it up, but …
1. The old was steel, the new is aluminum; i dont think rust will be an issue.
2. The old one was 30yo. I should live so long to need another replacement.
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Good point regarding the case materials.
 
JimFromMD said:
Are you suggesting that to prevent the HWH's case from rusting/corroding or to protect something inside? Not disputing, just trying to understand what the issue is that you are highlighting. This is why I love CSR.
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Yes to reduce corrosion. All metals will corrode eventually. Keeping water from wicking under the unit, especially salt water, will greatly prolong its life and things will just plain look better in that man cave. The tiles are dirt cheap for what they do to take care of these expensive things. Plus, you can wash under the thing. Simple and a no-brainer.
 
Someone posted about a year ago, about two strips of Starboard, one down each side. Lets water drain and air to flow under the unit to stop it from rotting out.
 
JimFromMD said:
Posted a question about using the Kuuma water heater anode out on the maintenance forum, but thought I'd share here as well since we had a discussion going. Wasn't sure where it would get the most attention in the off season.

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/kuuma-6gal-water-heater-use-anode.108067/
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I replied to that thread, but I thought it applicable to add it here:
I've had an aluminum tank in my RV develop a pinhole from the inside-out. Galvanic corrosion is everywhere! Example: all domestic water heaters for household use come with an anode already installed. I now run anodes in all of my water heaters and, during winterization when the anode/drain plug is pulled, it's pretty obvious the anode is doing its job, based on the pitting seen on the anode itself.
 
Hello - What is the correct size for a Delta Anchor on a 300DA ? I am thinking 22 lbs with swivel shackle and 100 feet of 5/16 chain then 100-150 feet of anchor rode? Would prefer SS but the cost difference is too big. And this will shock everyone, but the cheapest price for Delta Galvanized 22lbs is West Marine!

Also I want to make sure the anchor tip dosnt hit the boat if anyone knows about that
 
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Hi Stelios. The original was made by Kodiak and is the only one I've seen that doesnt require modification of the anchor roller/chute to prevent hitting the bow. Others here may have better insight on different models that could work. The original was a 25lb Kodiak. If you search with google you can sometimes get better results. There were some posts that have some good intel on who sells kodiak.

put this in the google search box: kodiak anchor site:clubsearay.com

By the way, on our 05 300 we did 100' of 5/16 G4 chain and then the remaining 200' of original line after cutting off the first 50' or so that was used all the time while anchoring. If you have a progress 1000 windlass make sure you get the G4 chain.

Imtra (makes our windlass) sells rode kits too, either pre-made or custom to however you want it.

https://www.imtra.com/products/anchoring/parts-accessories/chain-line-rodes
 
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JimFromMD said:
Hi Stelios. The original was made by Kodiak and is the only one I've seen that doesnt require modification of the anchor roller/chute to prevent hitting the bow. Others here may have better insight on different models that could work. The original was a 25lb Kodiak. If you search with google you can sometimes get better results. There were some posts that have some good intel on who sells kodiak.

put this in the google search box: kodiak anchor site:clubsearay.com

By the way, on our 05 300 we did 100' of 5/16 G4 chain and then the remaining 200' of original line after cutting off the first 50' or so that was used all the time while anchoring. If you have a progress 1000 windlass make sure you get the G4 chain.

Imtra (makes our windlass) sells rode kits too, either pre-made or custom to however you want it.

https://www.imtra.com/products/anchoring/parts-accessories/chain-line-rodes
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I found Kodiak, I was quoted $300 incl shipping. Im going to first try the Delta for $190 at local West store and if it dosnt fit I can return it


UPDATE - The Delta 22 fits perfectly
 

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IVE HAD IT! Trying to fine a replacement hidden horn on the bow. My original has grille mounting screws on 5 inch centers. Everything now is 4 inch centers and too small. AAARRRGGGGGGHH!!!!!!
 
stelios hondrcolos said:
IVE HAD IT! Trying to fine a replacement hidden horn on the bow. My original has grille mounting screws on 5 inch centers. Everything now is 4 inch centers and too small. AAARRRGGGGGGHH!!!!!!
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Is the grille too small for the opening too? Or just the screw holes in different places?
 
Phil S said:
Is the grille too small for the opening too? Or just the screw holes in different places?
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yes. the grilles are also smaller than the opening.

Sea Ray told me call a local dealer for replacement. the local dealer said the original horn part number is no longer available, and the replacement part number is also no longer available. And he ‘might’ have something that fits for $100+ which has to be special ordered.
 
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