300 Sundancer questions.

mmyrhb said:
I ended up pulling stairs out today. Like I feared there are two screws under the upholstery sea ray didn’t allow for access. I will have to silicone them back in. Once those two screws were loose I was able to unbolt from the underside.
Click to expand...

Thanks for following up, that is great info for the rest of us.
 
Swim platform sea dek is on:

upload_2022-5-2_4-55-37.png
 
RiverGalsMan said:
Stray Cat, the compartment just left of the transom door is not storage. The screwed on panel is there for access to the inside of the deck. When I first got my 300 I had one of the metal camper top attachment bases (the mounting points for the camper top frame) tear out of the fiberglass. The mechanic unscrewed that panel to access the underside of the deck to trough-bolt the bases to the deck. The other side was not as easy. There's a smaller panel on that side that requires the bench to be removed for access.

The RCA jack is probably a plug for an Xbox or game console that will display on a cabin TV. That's just my guess :huh:
Click to expand...
I have a little door and shallow storage on my area behind the transom door.
 
Hello 300 Owners,
Hoping one of you can help me out with how the 2-burner electric stove in an 05 300DA is connected. Over the winter we had our engines replaced, and we've found a couple of tripped 12v breakers for other things. Everything is back to normal, except we discovered now that the stove won't come on. We've used the stove all of 10x in the 12 seasons we've had it, so it may be unrelated to the re-power and we just didn't know. I feel like I did turn it on once last season, but it is rare!

I searched all the breakers I could find in the bilge, under the helm, and in the battery switch compartment but didnt find anything of note. Everything else 110v is working, and we only have one shore power cable so it's not that. Even checked the GFI outlets in the head and in the aft berth and they aren't tripped. Last ditch exploration to try to isolate anything unusual was to try running on the generator, and no luck.

Do you know if the stove is hard wired or if it has a 110v plug and an outlet? I've seen comments about the Kenyon grills being set up that way with an outlet in the cockpit on newer boats and occasionally the plug drops out of the outlet. I'm hoping someone will have a good idea or two before I have to pull out the fridge below the stove to see what's going on under there. The stove is sealed down to the counter from above so exploring from below seems the only option.

Thanks in advance!!
 
JimFromMD said:
Hello 300 Owners,
Hoping one of you can help me out with how the 2-burner electric stove in an 05 300DA is connected. Over the winter we had our engines replaced, and we've found a couple of tripped 12v breakers for other things. Everything is back to normal, except we discovered now that the stove won't come on. We've used the stove all of 10x in the 12 seasons we've had it, so it may be unrelated to the re-power and we just didn't know. I feel like I did turn it on once last season, but it is rare!

I searched all the breakers I could find in the bilge, under the helm, and in the battery switch compartment but didnt find anything of note. Everything else 110v is working, and we only have one shore power cable so it's not that. Even checked the GFI outlets in the head and in the aft berth and they aren't tripped. Last ditch exploration to try to isolate anything unusual was to try running on the generator, and no luck.

Do you know if the stove is hard wired or if it has a 110v plug and an outlet? I've seen comments about the Kenyon grills being set up that way with an outlet in the cockpit on newer boats and occasionally the plug drops out of the outlet. I'm hoping someone will have a good idea or two before I have to pull out the fridge below the stove to see what's going on under there. The stove is sealed down to the counter from above so exploring from below seems the only option.

Thanks in advance!!
Click to expand...

I will check through the pics I took when I tried to remove mine. In my case it wasn't the wiring -- it was that safety switch on the top that cuts power to the stove if you leave it on then place the cover.
 
Are the other 110 items working (like the microwave)? And the 20A breaker on the main AC panel is on?

It's unlikely but it could be that stovetop switch. They can get frozen up over time.
 
Phil S said:
I will check through the pics I took when I tried to remove mine. In my case it wasn't the wiring -- it was that safety switch on the top that cuts power to the stove if you leave it on then place the cover.
Click to expand...
Ok so this is new information. I don't remember ever seeing a safety switch. Ours has two knobs that indicate on/off and hot surface. Is the switch you are referencing in the edge of the counter recess where the filler Corian top goes, or further down inside with the filler top removed?
 
Phil S said:
Are the other 110 items working (like the microwave)? And the 20A breaker on the main AC panel is on?

It's unlikely but it could be that stovetop switch. They can get frozen up over time.
Click to expand...


Everything else is working yep. We had one of the 110v GFIs popped in the head cabinet but once reset everything else was back up and going except the stove.
 
Hi @JimFromMD it's along the recessed edge where the cover meets the counter. I bought a replacement from the dealer but the original was a #@$% to remove due to where it is, and all the silicone SR used. In the end I decided to bypass it. On mine it's on the left (aft) side as you're looking at the stove but this is how they look:

upload_2022-5-24_14-20-17.png
 
Phil S said:
Hi @JimFromMD it's along the recessed edge where the cover meets the counter. I bought a replacement from the dealer but the original was a #@$% to remove due to where it is, and all the silicone SR used. In the end I decided to bypass it. On mine it's on the left (aft) side as you're looking at the stove but this is how they look:

View attachment 127285
Click to expand...
I think I do remember seeing that but thinking it was a bumper to keep the lid from slamming. Thats right where water drips in from the sink top if the boat rocks.
 
When I bought my boat, the surveyor noted "stove inoperable: replace"

Turns out this switch was just gunked up and frozen. I did manage to get the switch un-stuck long enough to realize the stove itself was fine (SCORE).

In the process I ended up destroying the switch :mad:

When I slid out the fridge, I took the two wires to this switch and connected them so I have a working stove again. Someday I will install the new switch :rolleyes:
 
2nd the motion. When bought my boat, the switch was stuck in down position, no stove working. I little WD40 and a prying up with a flathead and it popped up. worked it up and down with more WD40 and works fine now. Stove hadn't been used in years, if ever. 30yo and looks brand new.
 
Does anyone know the actual overall length of a 2005 300DA? Is it 33'4" including the swim platform?
( and add another 18 inches for a anchor on a roller)
 
stelios hondrcolos said:
The reason i asked is because swim platforms can be non standard. Looking for the actual hull length
Click to expand...
What year is your 300? The manual for newer models, 2002+ has a page that gives every dimension you could want.
300 dimensions 2004.PNG
 
2005 300DA
Some 120VAC outlets not working
The head and galley area outlets are working. No power at the aft cabin and cockpit outlet under the sink. Any ideas? I thought they were all on one circuit
 
I'd wager there is a GFCI that needs to be reset, check inside cabinets
 
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