300 Sundancer questions.

When I bought the 300 last summer, the surveyor said the windlass works from the foot pedals but not the helm. I figured it had to do with the dreaded Pads, and I just use the foot pedals instead. The other day I had the anchor locker open, and I noticed both spade terminals for the helm controls had popped off. I plugged them back in and now I have helm windlass control again. Sometimes you win one!
 
J Hopsalot said:
New Topic:
Symptom: Starboard 6.2 MPI Mercruiser Engine cranks but will not start.
Situation: Would start on some days and not on others - until last week when would not start at all. Again, engine cranks so not a battery issue. New Fuel Filters as of Oct 2020.
When starter toggle at helm pressed in to first stage I do not hear the priming of the fuel pump.
Pressed circuit breaker knob (pic) even though it was not tripped, and located fuel pump relay (more aft relay next to fuse casement (blurry pic).
View attachment 110300

View attachment 110301

Inspected fuel pump relay, removed and opened, and problem fixed (fuel pump primes and engine starts). Fuses look fine.
Perhaps a faulty relay on it's last legs? Going to replace part # 86-865202T and watch for recurrence.
Anyone experience similar problem?
Thanks.
View attachment 110299
Click to expand...
Update.
Had on hook for 2 hours today while I snorkeled around the hull breaking off barnacles from hull and props, all while tearing up my hands (gloves next time :) Fuel pump properly primed and starboard engine starts - Seems problem is fixed!
 
Finally got around to installing vessel view Mobile today. I had a 6-port junction box behind the gauges, and it was full, so I had to wait for the Mutha 8-port box to arrive:

upload_2021-8-27_15-18-46.png
 
For those with the Kohler gen, what is your process for starting it? Mine will crank but not start. The 12v DC panel in the owners manual and parts manual are set up differently from what I have.

The manual says to hold down preheat, then start until it starts, but keep holding down preheat for a few more seconds. Mine says STOP/PREHEAT so there is no momentary preheat to hold down.

upload_2021-8-29_11-37-17.png


upload_2021-8-29_11-35-40.png
 
Phil S said:
For those with the Kohler gen, what is your process for starting it? Mine will crank but not start. The 12v DC panel in the owners manual and parts manual are set up differently from what I have.

The manual says to hold down preheat, then start until it starts, but keep holding down preheat for a few more seconds. Mine says STOP/PREHEAT so there is no momentary preheat to hold down.

View attachment 111281

View attachment 111280
Click to expand...
The answer is in post 2 here:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/correct-starting-of-generator.56464/
 
J Hopsalot said:
Update.
Had on hook for 2 hours today while I snorkeled around the hull breaking off barnacles from hull and props, all while tearing up my hands (gloves next time :) Fuel pump properly primed and starboard engine starts - Seems problem is fixed!
Click to expand...
I had the same issue. Its often the relay which you can check by just plugging in the relay from the other engine. I keep a spare on board. But sometimes its the pump relay connector itself. I spliced a new one in and no problems since. Common
problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-645-568-Fuel-Relay-Connector/dp/B00IWMX0XW
 

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Call me old-fashioned but it's always bothered me not having analog fuel gauges. Some other boats in the area with Smartcraft gauges have the 4-in-1 but they have fuel as one of the 4.

I have the fuel level that shows up in Vesselview mobile but only if I reset that after filling up, and it was already on empty when I got the boat so I got used to seeing the display on the bottom of the gauges say EMPTY. So I added a Smarcraft fuel gauge on each side and even w/o resetting the fuel level, they show what is in the tank.


upload_2021-9-8_8-58-34.png
 
What kind of connection do you guys have for dockside water inlet (next to the transom shower)?

I have the garden-hose style on the washdown spigot, but the inlet (which I've never used) looks like it has something like a quick-release fitting you'd put on an air tool. Just wondering if this is standard or someone added it on ???

l_hcp1414mm.jpg
 
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Phil S said:
Like maybe it's one of these?

81fNfNeavxL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Click to expand...
My '92 has a standard female garden hose connection that allows me to connect a fresh-water hose for when we're docked. It looks like someone already purchased the very fitting you need to blow out your fresh-water system.
 
I have those on all the hoses around the farm. Work great. Never thought about using them on the boats.
 
I've done the quick connect on our dockside water connection. Pretty helpful, though I think I need a new one as my dockside pressure was fairly low this season when connected to shore water. We typically just fill the tank and use the internal supply to keep it cycling and fresh. If we run low, its easy enough to do a quick refill with the pocket hose we have tucked away instead of dragging out the white garden hose type hose.

Second option is that it could be a connector for blowing out the water system (winterization). Like this one: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/camc...FTNyMkiKyCZKdKRzA6BXM2itIWZ8kwaxoC9gAQAvD_BwE
 
I checked it out this morning and it's one of these garden hose quick adapters

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I picked up a couple of different adapters for this fall to try blowing out fresh water supply lines.
 
We blow out the lines, then bypass the HW heater, and FW tank. Then pump pink through the system from an external bottle. Always surprised how much clear water comes through before the pink even after blowing out.
 
JimFromMD said:
We blow out the lines, then bypass the HW heater, and FW tank. Then pump pink through the system from an external bottle. Always surprised how much clear water comes through before the pink even after blowing out.
Click to expand...

Hi Jim

Just curious why you blow out the lines and still run the pink through afterwards? I was planning to run AF through the sink drains, gen and engines this year but I wanted to try compressed air through the water supply lines. Last year after the pink sat in the freshwater tank and lines, I had to treat the tank several times to clear that up. I couldn't really tell but the wife and kids (and some day guests) were complaining. I'd like to avoid that next spring :eek:
 
Phil S said:
Last year after the pink sat in the freshwater tank and lines, I had to treat the tank several times to clear that up.
Click to expand...
With my RV, i can successfully blow the FW lines clear just with compressed air and be fairly certain that we won't have any freezing issues. 'Never had a break in over 40 years doing that. We reserve the pink stuff only for filling the P-traps.
The boat, however, is an unknown entity for me, as this Fall was my first winterization that we've performed. 'Not taking any chances; we blew out the lines and WH, poured a couple of gallons into the (mostly) drained FW tank, then broke the line and used the FW pump to suction from the bottles of AF, filling the lines. Knowing the condition of the nasty-looking water we found in the FW tank, I'm using that as excuse for making sure the whole system gets flushed and re-flushed many times this next Spring.
My hope is that we can perform our usual compressed-air-only method next Fall on the boat as well as the RV.
 
I got 1992 300 sundancer it is in pretty good shape and I am thinking about adding AC.
Got a quote for 6 k hoping I can do a little better but I was wondering if anyone has done a similar install and where how did you route wires and vents ?
My boat has kitchen on stbd and couch on port..
Thanks Rob
 
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