390 E.C. Windlass Discussion

MinnesotaJim

MinnesotaJim

New Member
Sep 12, 2012
14
St. Paul, MN
Boat Info
1988 390 express cruiser
Engines
Twin 7.4 liter mercruisers
I purchased my 1988 390 E.C. back in August and had all kinds of problems with the windlass (rope only). I am assuming that this windlass is original to the boat and although it does work, it gets jammed up and the rope slips through the wheels often. I was told that the E.C. often came with Good windlasses. I have contacted Good about a replacement windlass, but they only sell vertical windlasses now and I only have 12" of depth in the rope locker (seems too shallow for a vertical, the salesman I spoke to on the phone states that that depth is fine but Good's website states that they recommend at least 17" minimum to the top of the rope).

I have done a lot of research on windlasses over the past month and I was looking for some recommendations on which company to purchase from. I currently have a 22 lb danforth anchor and all of my anchoring is done on the Mississippi or St. Croix river rarely in depths of approximately 20'-30'. I would like the free fall feature on any windlass I purchase but it's not a deal breaker.

I have looked at the Maxwell's and although the HRC8 states that the windlass is suited for boats up to 40', the 600W motor seems a little underpowered. The HRC 10 seems about right for the E.C.'s, does anyone have any experience with Maxwell's?

I looked at the Lewmar profish 1000 (love the price) but it got horrible reviews on line.

Of course Lofrans is always at the top of everyone's list but it is a little spendy for my taste. I had looked at the Cayman 88's but it's around $2500.

Anyone have experience with Quick windlasses? The Genius 1000 is available for $800 but I had difficulty finding any reviews and that price seems too good to be true.

So I guess what I'm trying to say is I would like Lofrans quality and Lewmar prices.
icon12.png
Hoping to find a quality windlass that is somewhere in between. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Jim

Windlass.jpg

photo of current windlass
 
That is not a Good windlass.

It looks like an old Power Wench. You might try contacting them for parts. The Power Wince is easy to rebuild your self as long as the motor runs.....the rest is some bushings (if needed), springs and tension wheels.

Frequently, the anchor rode is more of a problem than the windlass. If you line is old and limp the windlass has trouble tensioning it around the drive wheel. If memory serves me, Power Winch requires a "medium hard lay" line. The line could also be kinked causing it to knot up and not flake in the anchor locker.......windlasses need an uninterrupted drop right below the entry to the locker and a like that kinks up prevents getting enough drop. I am betting you need a combination of tension springs and a new anchor line.

Good luck with it.......at least you are going to get out a lot cheaper than a new windlass.
 
I am in the process of installing a Good F850C, going the trade-in route with Good, the difference is the motor is horizontal now instead of vertical and moved to the rear of the locker, there was enough room for 200' of rode before so it should be fine now, the anchor locker should be the same on your 1988 as my 1990.
 
I removed the original Capstan 5 years ago and installed a Lewmar Profish 1000 and have not had any problems with it since. If you pull out all of your rode, you should find a removable plywood base in your anchor rope locker behind the sliding mirror in your forward stateroom. If you remove this piece of plywood, you will expose additional space below it and you will be able to get the 17" of vertical space that you are looking for. I have 200' of rope + 25' of chain and mine works flawlessly. IMHO I think that your 22 LB. Danforth is on the light side for a 390. You may want to consider something in the 35 Lb. range. http://www.sv-zanshin.com/manuals/cqranchordescription.pdf I have a 35 LB. Strainless Steel CRQ anchor that works just fine. Please see their anchor selection guide for your length of boat.

~Ken
 
electricaldoctor said:
I removed the original Capstan 5 years ago and installed a Lewmar Profish 1000 and have not had any problems with it since. If you pull out all of your rode, you should find a removable plywood base in your anchor rope locker behind the sliding mirror in your forward stateroom. If you remove this piece of plywood, you will expose additional space below it and you will be able to get the 17" of vertical space that you are looking for. I have 200' of rope + 25' of chain and mine works flawlessly. IMHO I think that your 22 LB. Danforth is on the light side for a 390. You may want to consider something in the 35 Lb. range. http://www.sv-zanshin.com/manuals/cqranchordescription.pdf I have a 35 LB. Strainless Steel CRQ anchor that works just fine. Please see their anchor selection guide for your length of boat.

~Ken
Click to expand...


22lb Danforth is right on for this boat and that type of anchor. However, if he were to get a CQR like you have, then yes, he would want the 35lb like you have.
 
I have the exact same "Power Winch" windlass on my '85 390. It was nothing but trouble when I first got the boat and I was to the point of spending the money for a new one, but after pricing a few different options, I decided to try to get this one working. I found that my rode was swollen and no longer feeding through the "gypsy ?" properly, so I replaced the rode ~$160. Still had some problems, so after some more investigation; I found that the idler roller was not applying enough pressure to keep the rode engaged, hardware store spring to replace weak one ~$4. At this point it was a lot better, but still every now an again, it would hang; and always at the most inopportune time. When it would hang at this point, it had a dog twisted in the rope under the "gypsy?" that was keeping it from feeding through the deck. I found a real nice bullet shaped swivel to replace the anchor shackle ~$60. Now with all new parts and lots of time spent with the side cover off, I have a much better understanding of this winch and how it works. It still hangs a little every now and again, I think the issue is the hole in the deck the rode feeds through is no longer smooth due to water intrusion and swelling, so next windlass project for me in the installation of a "hawse pipe" under the windlass to allow the rode to fall freely into the locker. I really think this will be the final thing I have to correct to get this windlass to work flawlessly.

On the bright side, I have learned a lot of new terms and have a better understanding of the windlass.

P.S. if you do get a new one and want to donate the old one for parts let me know.

Kevin
 
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i had a maxwell vertical rope only capstan style on my 87, i was fed up with having to loop the rode around the capstan and manually put the rode in the locker, so i got a lewmar profish 1000. i got it for three reasons, one price, two reviews i found werent terrible and went both ways (as you tend to find alot online) and three i needed a horizontal style so it would cover up the hole i have from my original vertical windlass, as i have a new plasteak pulpit that i dont want to have to replace. i will report back after i use it a few times this spring and summer. oh and one more reason i went with that model, is that as im sure alot of you guys know already, running wires the length of the boat is damn near inpossible, so lewmar as im sure most manufactures do, offer a wireless controller. cant wait to acutally lower and raise the anchor from the helm!!!
 
I replaced the good horizontal with the good vertical last year. Really like this windlass. Freefall gets me to the bottom fast and this windlass pulls up nicely. The good windlass comes with a choice of new rode and chain combos also.
My biggest concern was wiring, as it is impossible to pull new wires from the pulpit to the helm. That was the most deciding factor when I ordered a new windlass.
 
wilytemptress

Where did you mount your reversing control in the anchor locker? It looks like options are limited. I am in the process of installing the Good vertical F850C rope/chain, the wiring issue was a big factor in my decision also, just waiting for my Plasteak bow insert to arrrive so I can finish.
 
When you ordered your plasteak bow insert did you have to provide measurements or is the insert crafted to fit older model sea rays?
 
MinnesotaJim said:
When you ordered your plasteak bow insert did you have to provide measurements or is the insert crafted to fit older model sea rays?
Click to expand...
I sent them a template for my 270 Sundancer and they built from that. They shipped mine today, so excited to see results.
 
My 390 arrived and did not fit. I had to make a template and send it back to have them modify it. They did so without a hassle but i would recommend just sending them a template the first time just in case. For what its worth my fathers 390 ec (same year) was different from mine too so there are obvious variances between our boats although small ones at that.
absolutley love my pulpit insert though!!! And the plasteak product is amazing!
 
Did they charge you for the modification? I just measured using the dimensions that the plasteak company provided, and it appears that it should be an exact fit. However, it would be nice to know that if it doesn't fit, modifications would be made free of charge.
 
Thanks for everyone's advice, just ordered my Good F850C today. Although I had originally thought that my original windlass was a Good, it was actually a Powerwinch model 602. Good still will provide me a trade in value for the old windlass (sorry Kevin). I am also waiting on a new plasteak bow insert, and plan to begin the project when both arrive. Any advice on installation or stories of complications encountered (and hopefully overcome) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again everyone!

P.S. I currently have an up/down toggle at the helm that raises and lowers my current windlass, is it acceptable to connect the new windlass to this switch? I am concerned about the difficulty running new wire from the pulpit to the helm that everyone is describing.
 
MinnesotaJim said:
Thanks for everyone's advice, just ordered my Good F850C today. Although I had originally thought that my original windlass was a Good, it was actually a Powerwinch model 602. Good still will provide me a trade in value for the old windlass (sorry Kevin). I am also waiting on a new plasteak bow insert, and plan to begin the project when both arrive. Any advice on installation or stories of complications encountered (and hopefully overcome) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again everyone!

P.S. I currently have an up/down toggle at the helm that raises and lowers my current windlass, is it acceptable to connect the new windlass to this switch? I am concerned about the difficulty running new wire from the pulpit to the helm that everyone is describing.[/QUOTE)


The wires from your helm switch are small gauge wires that control 2 solenoids that are mounted inside the anchor locker. One solenoid for up the other for down. That way only one pair of heavy gauge wires that supply the high amp current to power the windlass are needed. The windlass will probably come with 3 wires, 1 negative ground, 1 positive for up and 1 positive for down. Your current helm switch and solenoid system should be compatible but of course if all else fails read the instructions! :smt038
Click to expand...
 
They modified mine for no charge........
i just had to pay shipping
 
Did your plasteak insert have the same shape as your bow? My piece fits width and lengthwise but does not match the shape of the bow, it just isn't a great fit. I could send it in for modifications but don't want to wait for the return as I'm trying to get this project finished before the marina puts the boat in the water and i'm in a time crunch. Am hoping the bow roller just covers enough of the imperfect match and makes it difficult to see.
 
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MinnesotaJim
Based on the feedback in this thread it looks like the bow shape changed over the years, on my 1990 the standard insert fit the profile fine, I just needed to square up the other end for a tight fit before caulking.
 
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