40 sedan bridge forum

I posted about my interest in a 400 Fly Bridge and got sent a link to here where there is lots of information already posted. Hopefully over the holidays I can spend a few hours starting from the beginning to try and learn something. I am in the process of selling my business and can pay cash for a new one but my retirement plans will leave me with a set monthly budget after. I am wondering about ownership costs. I've already specked out covered moorage but I am really interested in fuel and maintenance costs? I know that there are probably many variables but what would be a good required annual budget to have?
 
NoClueAndrew said:
I posted about my interest in a 400 Fly Bridge and got sent a link to here where there is lots of information already posted. Hopefully over the holidays I can spend a few hours starting from the beginning to try and learn something. I am in the process of selling my business and can pay cash for a new one but my retirement plans will leave me with a set monthly budget after. I am wondering about ownership costs. I've already specked out covered moorage but I am really interested in fuel and maintenance costs? I know that there are probably many variables but what would be a good required annual budget to have?
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Andrew,

Fuel will depend on basically two things. 1) What engines that you have on the boat and 2) what your usage is.

My 400DB has twin CAT 3116 engines. They will burn about 22 gallons per hour @ 2,400 RPM (recommended max cruise). However if you slow down to 2,200 RPM your fuel consumption will drop to 18 gallons per hour. Moving at a fast idle will result in about 6 GPH. That is for both engines.

A lot of the maintenance (filters, oil, belts, anodes) I perform myself, as will many others on this list. However being an older, larger guy... certain things I have the marina perform simply because it is easier for them to do it (IE: Impellers - every 3 years).

For me winter storage (heated) is the largest yearly expense with the slip fees following.
 
If your boat ran perfect all the time and never needed repairs, then for year round warm weather salt boating you have this. Costs listed are what I pay in my area or would pay if I weren't doing it:

Slip fees: $600/mo
Bottom cleaning: $150/mo (I do this myself)
Boat insurance: $1500/year
Personal Property Tax: $1400/yr
Bottom paint: $3000 every 2-3 years
Fluids and filter changes: $400/yr (parts only - I do labor)
Seawater passage service: $300 every 2 years (parts only - I do labor)

Add to that any cosmetic buffing and waxing you'd hire out. Plus fuel to use the boat.

Also every year something unexpected needs replacing. This year it was exhaust mixing elbows ($2800 total). Last year it was new refrigerator ($1400) and one new cutless bearing ($600). Year before it was a new salon ac unit ($2300) and rebuilding two turbos ($2400) and two new shaft seals ($2400) and tuning two props ($900 - that was an expensive year). Year before that was a new aftercooler ($3400). And so on. I figure anywhere from $2000-$5000 per year on unexpected stuff.
 
When looking at moorage options in one of the absolutely most expensive cities in the world (Vancouver, BC) I have been told by various marinas different wait times for moorage ranging from 4 - 12 years. Yes, 12 years! The covered option close to me is advertising ones for sale but they are closed until after the holidays. I want moorage arranged before proceeding with anything.
 
Anyone know how long it takes the macerate to dump the tank. Did it for the first time ever this morning. Have no idea if I ran it long enough. My empty light doesn't always work so I can't depend on it.
 
ZZ13 said:
Anyone know how long it takes the macerate to dump the tank. Did it for the first time ever this morning. Have no idea if I ran it long enough. My empty light doesn't always work so I can't depend on it.
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Rated capacity is 5 gpm. I watch the amp gauge on the panel. When it is moving water it bounces around 5 to 7 amps. When it starts sucking air, it drops a few amps. It’s noticeable. Tank is not totally empty when the “empty” light comes on.
Also can see that the tank is empty when I go down to close the seacock.
 
ZZ13 said:
If your boat ran perfect all the time and never needed repairs, then for year round warm weather salt boating you have this. Costs listed are what I pay in my area or would pay if I weren't doing it:

Slip fees: $600/mo
Bottom cleaning: $150/mo (I do this myself)
Boat insurance: $1500/year
Personal Property Tax: $1400/yr
Bottom paint: $3000 every 2-3 years
Fluids and filter changes: $400/yr (parts only - I do labor)
Seawater passage service: $300 every 2 years (parts only - I do labor)

Add to that any cosmetic buffing and waxing you'd hire out. Plus fuel to use the boat.

Also every year something unexpected needs replacing. This year it was exhaust mixing elbows ($2800 total). Last year it was new refrigerator ($1400) and one new cutless bearing ($600). Year before it was a new salon ac unit ($2300) and rebuilding two turbos ($2400) and two new shaft seals ($2400) and tuning two props ($900 - that was an expensive year). Year before that was a new aftercooler ($3400). And so on. I figure anywhere from $2000-$5000 per year on unexpected stuff.
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I too am looking at a 400 sedan bridge. I have called around for insurance quotes in the northeast and I am being told $3,000 to 5,000 per year. This is through progressive and boat us respectively. Love to know how to get 1,500. Thanks.
 
Boston-boater said:
I too am looking at a 400 sedan bridge. I have called around for insurance quotes in the northeast and I am being told $3,000 to 5,000 per year. This is through progressive and boat us respectively. Love to know how to get 1,500. Thanks.
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What year? And what boat did you come from? My 2000 is less than 900 per year on Lake Michigan.
 
Wow. I was less then $600 with my 340 Dancer.
Where do you boat?
 
Boston-boater said:
I too am looking at a 400 sedan bridge. I have called around for insurance quotes in the northeast and I am being told $3,000 to 5,000 per year. This is through progressive and boat us respectively. Love to know how to get 1,500. Thanks.
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That’s crazy talk. I’ve never found either of them to be competitive for boat insurance. Odd, since ideologically BoatUS should be, dontcha think? Maybe these guys are good for go fast, pontoons or day boats. I don’t know.

Talk to these guys.
http://www.charterlakes.com/

They are a broker and can sell for multiple companies. On my 320 they had me in with Foremost, for under $1000. They have me in someone else now (forget who but I have it in my files!) for not much more. And that’s a 12
Month in the water policy.

I’ve also heard good things about Chubb.
 
I am with Chubb
 
Check out Global Marine. We found them to be reasonable with good coverage.
 
I found these ropes in storage on the boat. Anyone have an idea of what their function is? How they’d work? I’m thinking some sort of towing tackle.
 

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dgerrit said:
I found these ropes in storage on the boat. Anyone have an idea of what their function is? How they’d work? I’m thinking some sort of towing tackle.
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Those are a anchor bridle. The flat plate fits over the chain link and the two ropes would go back to the forward cleats - one on each side.
 
Yes, The one on the left with the chain plate is a bridle, used as described by Tom. The one on the right with the hook is a snubber if it is one line, another bridle if it is two lines, I can't quite tell.
 
my3sons said:
Yes, The one on the left with the chain plate is a bridle, used as described by Tom. The one on the right with the hook is a snubber if it is one line, another bridle if it is two lines, I can't quite tell.
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Thanks! An anchor bridle and a snubber. Next stop research on why I’ll need these!

thank you to Tomco and Jaybeaux as well.
 
dgerrit said:
Thanks! An anchor bridle and a snubber. Next stop research on why I’ll need these!

thank you to Tomco and Jaybeaux as well.
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Given that you found this on the boat I assume you have an all-chain rode (which I do as well). After setting the anchor you don't want the chain around the windless to take the load of the boat (in current and/or wind) - there is a chance of damaging the windless. Using the bridle allows the load to be moved to the cleats instead. When installed, you would just let out a little more chain so the bridle takes the load. The approach works with a rope rode as well but there is usually a cleat beside the windless that it gets tied off to instead. Chain, much harder to tie off on a cleat! ;)
 
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