40 sedan bridge forum

dgerrit said:
Looks like a major project. Thanks for the heads up. I gave that area some attention a couple years so looked back at some photos. Ill have to keep an eye on it.

Just an fyi; While you're in there if you remove the water side panel you can squeeze a bit more storage as well. I fashioned an aluminum shelf and lowered the hose hookups. Now I can fit the stern anchor and rope in there...
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I've been trying to figure if I wanted to reconfigure that space, I really like your design.... May just borrow that idea, thanks
 
dgerrit said:
Can anyone confirm what this is behind the master tv? Believe its a little compressor but for what? Seems small for the horn and states to oil it every 4 months (not in a location condusive to oiling at all). Clear tube runs forward and has trace oil in it. Windlass lubrication system?
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Yep, that's the horn. Real handy spot. :)
 
Hello all. I am upgrading electronics and a few other things on my 97 40 sedan bridge. All are in very good working condition. If anyone is interested in purchasing any of the following please let me know.
1. Raytheon Nav398 gps Loran
2. Raytheon Raypilot 650
3. Raytheon Ray 202 VHF/HAILER
4. Raytheon R41 SS RASTER SCAN RADAR
5. RAYTHEON RAYCHART 620
6. RAYTHEON OPEN ARRAY 4’ RADAR
7. Original galley table in great shape
 
The guys over on the 420/44DB thread are talking about sliding door rollers. I know a few of us have talked about it here and there, and have posted some part numbers in various places. They have given me the incentive to post what I have. I have some info and pictures from when I did mine last year so I thought I might as well post it in one spot. The 420 doors are probably the same or close so they can maybe find it here too.

To remove the screen door, adjust the roller adjustment screws out to relax tension on the rollers and lift the screen door out, but as you can see in my photos below, the screen door was left in when I removed the glass door. It doesn’t have to come out to remove the glass door.

To remove the glass door, remove the screws from the plastic spacer at the top, open the door all the way then slide the plastic piece out to the left. Adjust the door rollers up enough to lift it off the track. It’s heavy, have a place prepared large enough to lay it down. Now remove the screws at the bottom on the side rails and the bottom rail will come off with some tapping with a wood block. The RUBBER SEAL STAYS ON THE DOOR GLASS. Installation of the rollers are easy, just like the old ones came out and install of the door is the reverse of removal. While it's off, if the track is rough and bumpy, a new track cap can be purchased at Home Depot. Carefully pry off the beat up one and cut and apply the new one with an adhesive/sealant.

The rollers: All your Window and door parts
The track cap: Prime-Line 1/4 in. x 8 ft., Stainless Steel, Sliding Door Repair Cap-D 1579-1 - The Home Depot
Screen door rollers: Prime-Line 1 in. Steel Screen Door Tension Springs with Steel Roller (2-pack)-B 513 - The Home Depot Note: these screen door rollers are NOT stainless steel like the originals. I found stainless at Taylor Made but at about 4 times the cost plus shipping I chose the home depot version and just bought an extra set. The screen door rollers can be changed in 10 minutes.
Generic instructions: How to replace a sliding glass door roller : SWISCO.com

IMG_E1833.JPG


Remember, the rubber seal stays on the bottom of the door glass when removing the bottom rail
IMG_E1834.JPG


IMG_E1835.JPG


WODVE2829.JPG
 
Mark, did your 2004 have a cap on the track at the factory? There is no removal of the cap on my 2001 as there is no cap. It’s all one aluminum piece. I put the new stainless steel cap right over top the existing solid aluminum track.
 
Yes, there was a cap. It was beat up pretty good and had to be removed in pieces in the area of where the door is in the closed position, but the rest lifted off with the help of a vise grip pretty much in one piece.
 
my3sons said:
Yes, there was a cap. It was beat up pretty good and had to be removed in pieces in the area of where the door is in the closed position, but the rest lifted off with the help of a vise grip pretty much in one piece.
Click to expand...
Well, maybe my aluminum track is really two pieces and the top aluminum piece could have been removed. But it sure seemed like one solid piece. I’ll double check when I am at the boat next. But it definitely wasn’t a stainless steel cap.
 
Maybe the po put a cap on mine. When I started to clean it up with a file and dremel it was immediately obvious that there was a gap under it.
 
ZZ13 said:
Well, maybe my aluminum track is really two pieces and the top aluminum piece could have been removed. But it sure seemed like one solid piece. I’ll double check when I am at the boat next. But it definitely wasn’t a stainless steel cap.
Click to expand...

Mine is a piece of extruded aluminum, no SS cap.

And btw, pressing SS onto aluminum will set up galvanic corrosion.
 
CaptRonn said:
Mine is a piece of extruded aluminum, no SS cap.

And btw, pressing SS onto aluminum will set up galvanic corrosion.
Click to expand...
Thanks. It’s imbedded into a goo of silicone sealant. So that should help with that. Plus I have no other options. Aluminum top was totally unusable. I’ll monitor it.
 
my3sons said:
The guys over on the 420/44DB thread are talking about sliding door rollers. I know a few of us have talked about it here and there, and have posted some part numbers in various places. They have given me the incentive to post what I have. I have some info and pictures from when I did mine last year so I thought I might as well post it in one spot. The 420 doors are probably the same or close so they can maybe find it here too.

To remove the door, remove the screws from the plastic spacer at the top, open the door all the way then slide the plastic piece out to the left. Adjust the door rollers up enough to lift it off the track. Remove the screws at the bottom on the side rails and the bottom rail will come off with some tapping with a wood block. The RUBBER SEAL STAYS ON THE DOOR GLASS. Installation of the rollers are easy, just like the old ones came out and install of the door is the reverse of removal. While it's off, if the track is rough and bumpy, a new track cap can be purchased at Home Depot. Carefully pry off the beat up one and cut and apply the new one with an adhesive/sealant.

The rollers: All your Window and door parts
The track cap: Prime-Line 1/4 in. x 8 ft., Stainless Steel, Sliding Door Repair Cap-D 1579-1 - The Home Depot
Screen door rollers: Prime-Line 1 in. Steel Screen Door Tension Springs with Steel Roller (2-pack)-B 513 - The Home Depot Note: these screen door rollers are NOT stainless steel like the originals. I found stainless at Taylor Made but at about 4 times the cost plus shipping I chose the home depot version and just bought an extra set. The screen door rollers can be changed in 10 minutes.
Generic instructions: How to replace a sliding glass door roller : SWISCO.com

View attachment 100046

Remember, the rubber seal stays on the door glass.
View attachment 100047

View attachment 100048

View attachment 100049
Click to expand...

Dave,

You didn't say it, but that darn door is HEAVY!!
 
First time in a hospital since I was born 74 years ago. Passed a gall stone that blocked my bile duct. Bile backed up into my pancreas, giving me pancreatitis and then backed up further giving me an inflamed liver - painful.

I’ve never taken a legal - or illegal drug before. After 9 hrs of severe pain I went to the ER - they gave me three shots of morphine - nothing. Then one of fentanyl - nothing. After 3 1/2 hrs in the ER, they moved me to a room and at 4 AM I could get a second fentanyl shot - pain finally subsided.

MRI early that morning, surgery to remove the blockage Friday, surgery to remove th gall bladder on Saturday. Home Sunday.


Sorry for the thread creep...
 
carterchapman said:
First time in a hospital since I was born 74 years ago. Passed a gall stone that blocked my bile duct. Bile backed up into my pancreas, giving me pancreatitis and then backed up further giving me an inflamed liver - painful.

I’ve never taken a legal - or illegal drug before. After 9 hrs of severe pain I went to the ER - they gave me three shots of morphine - nothing. Then one of fentanyl - nothing. After 3 1/2 hrs in the ER, they moved me to a room and at 4 AM I could get a second fentanyl shot - pain finally subsided.

MRI early that morning, surgery to remove the blockage Friday, surgery to remove th gall bladder on Saturday. Home Sunday.


Sorry for the thread creep...
Click to expand...
I am glad that you are doing better! Heal quickly!
 
carterchapman said:
First time in a hospital since I was born 74 years ago. Passed a gall stone that blocked my bile duct. Bile backed up into my pancreas, giving me pancreatitis and then backed up further giving me an inflamed liver - painful.

I’ve never taken a legal - or illegal drug before. After 9 hrs of severe pain I went to the ER - they gave me three shots of morphine - nothing. Then one of fentanyl - nothing. After 3 1/2 hrs in the ER, they moved me to a room and at 4 AM I could get a second fentanyl shot - pain finally subsided.

MRI early that morning, surgery to remove the blockage Friday, surgery to remove th gall bladder on Saturday. Home Sunday.

Wow, hope you feel better soon Carter.

Sorry for the thread creep...
Click to expand...
 
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