410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Strecker25 said:
wow, I thank you for that but it also seems like a job best left to the pros

but, If I do have to remove our strut and it’s repairable couldn’t the existing epoxy bedding be left untouched, assuming the original strut alignment was correct? Then I could clean up the 4200 and reseat it
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I would say so if it was repaired to it's exact previous configuration. But, again, SR wasn't really swiss watch precision out of the factory. For me though I would be taking the installation to a higher level of precision as these installations are directly proportional to the boat's efficiency and performance. In fact, this next spring we will be pulling both struts off my boat and resetting the drive train as during the last haul out I noticed significant splay (like over an inch) between the two shafts.
 
ttmott said:
I would say so if it was repaired to it's exact previous configuration. But, again, SR wasn't really swiss watch precision out of the factory. For me though I would be taking the installation to a higher level of precision as these installations are directly proportional to the boat's efficiency and performance. In fact, this next spring we will be pulling both struts off my boat and resetting the drive train as during the last haul out I noticed significant splay (like over an inch) between the two shafts.
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understood, thanks!

are struts typically made perpendicular to their mounting flange? I would assume so since the casting number is the same on both of mine. If they had a lean one way or the other you’d have specific parts for starboard versus port
 
Strecker25 said:
understood, thanks!

are struts typically made perpendicular to their mounting flange? I would assume so since the casting number is the same on both of mine. If they had a lean one way or the other you’d have specific parts for starboard versus port
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Most are perpendicular. I found this video that shows what I'm talking about on the installation:

 
techmitch said:
That's interesting Tom. Where/how far apart were you able to take those measurements?
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I measured between the shafts at the engine coupling then at the ends. I have no reference as to the alignment with respect to the keel or shaft angle. It was a rough check as to shaft parallel.
 
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It takes barely any effort to get it back into place. I didn’t push it yet, but it does spring back. I need to probably put some heat on the strut and over correct a hair so it stays in place

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Strecker25 said:
It takes barely any effort to get it back into place. I didn’t push it yet, but it does spring back. I need to probably put some heat on the strut and over correct a hair so it stays in place

View attachment 94024
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I think you'd need to be careful not to introduce any twist as well during this process. Following, as I've personally only seen them removed and sent in for straightening/refurbishment.
 
TNT8808 said:
I think you'd need to be careful not to introduce any twist as well during this process. Following, as I've personally only seen them removed and sent in for straightening/refurbishment.
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I think it’s still probably an R&R. It spring back completely and I’m not comfortable applying too much pressure on the hull. The last thing I might do is cross brace the other side to create the fulcrum point and not stress the bedding but even then I’d need a lot of pressure, and any substantial amount of heat seems like a bad idea while attached to the hull.

If nothing else it proves it needs repair I suppose
 
Hey yall, I am having my cockpit vinyl redone soon and would like to see some examples of what you all have done to share with the upholstery folks. Would you mind sending me a photo if you have redone yours? Message here is fine, or if you prefer to text 678-360-4358 or email is Dsch555@charter.net. Thank you!
 
I don’t mean to monopolize this thread let me know if you all want this stuff separate and I’ll start a new one.

today was a good day - shaft removed, and strut dropped. I did end up using the slide hammer to break the trans coupling off, but it took a single half slide of only a 10lb hammer so I don’t think it would do any damage to the trans. Once that popped it was smooth sailing. I pulled the 6 bolts from the strut, and used my trusty harbor freight press to separate the strut from the hull. Much to my surprise it was bedded in silicone and not 4200/5200? Only one shim was in place

the strut has a good bend in it, but the local prop guy said no problem to fix it.

I also did the other cutless and got a good idea of what proper alignment looks like. I didn’t even need to use a wrench on the strutpro to push the new bearing in, a little dish soap and it set easily.


B030806F-A239-4E1C-A557-E71270DAE845.jpeg
50A70DCB-4B98-4E3D-BC71-6C7ACD1EF3C5.jpeg


my “good” side
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Strecker25 said:
I don’t mean to monopolize this thread let me know if you all want this stuff separate and I’ll start a new one.

today was a good day - shaft removed, and strut dropped. I did end up using the slide hammer to break the trans coupling off, but it took a single half slide of only a 10lb hammer so I don’t think it would do any damage to the trans. Once that popped it was smooth sailing.

Please elaborate. Where did you attach the slide hammer to to release the coupler? This information could change my world. The last one I did was hell!
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I put the large prop nut back on the shaft, wrapped the shaft with electrical tape to protect it, and just used the 3 jaws that the autozone kit comes with. One whack released it.

I might have primed it by applying PB blaster the day before but I think it was mainly the shock from the slide that broke it loose.

some of the skiboat and sailboat sites I was reading said under no circumstances to use a slide, but those are much smaller boats and transmissions. If it didn’t come loose quickly I would have stopped so as to not wail on the trans and bearings but I feel pretty good about just one hit not doing damage
 
Got the aftercooler on the starboard side off today. I’ll do the port in the next couple days and get them to the shop for cleaning. I have no frame of reference as to how bad they are, what do you guys think? There’s a light even coating of black oil on the inside. A little rust on the flange too, so I’ll be happy to have them pressure tested.
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Strecker25 said:
View attachment 93928 Got the props off today. Pretty sure the first time ever since new based on how long it took me to get them loose. And I have a prop removal press.

I then pressed out the starboard cuttless. That is my “stiff” side and I’m pretty sure I now see why. The shaft is pressing very hard against the inside of the cutless and is exiting the shaft log at what appears to be an angle. I suspected the engine alignment was way out on that engine and tried briefly to correct it, but it’s clearly still off. The shaft turns easily without the cutless in, so I’m going to press the new one in, do a rough alignment on the hard, then zero it in when we’re back in the water.

here you can see how far the shaft pushes left. Some sag would be normal, but it takes quite a force to push it back in the center of the strut. I don’t believe the strut is bent

oh and for anyone who needs to do their cutless bearings, just buy the strutpro for $400. It makes the job so easy
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Prop Tech lent me a Prop Knocker to get my props off. I failed to get them off. After two hours of swinging a 4 pound sledge, I gave up. I have asked my Marina to remove them. My question is: I could buy a good Walter Plate style puller for $355.oo. What do you think the Marina will charge? Is the tool worth the investment? My fear is buying the tool to find out I cant get them off myself!
What do you suggest?
 
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