410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

dtfeld said:
Not on new to us boats, they are 24/7/365 for at least a year or two...maybe 3:)
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lol exactly.

thought I’d pop my head down into the bilge to do the gen fuel filter, yeah right…I’m going to need a pipe wrench to get that thing loose
 
Hello all, have a 2000 410 da and yesterday the main state room A/C powered up but wasn’t producing much cold air, at one point it had a reading of either PS or P5 couldn’t tell.
has two 30 AMP cords and I tried switching those due to galley area A/C working great and thinking PS meant power supply, but that didn’t work.
Any suggestions?
 
That code usually means not enough water or air flow. Most likely not enough water flow, but first check air flow since it’s easier.

1. Check to see if filter screen on compressor is dirty.

2. Check to see if the strainer in the engine room needs to be cleaned.
 
Dani-Lu said:
That usually means not enough water or air flow. Most likely not enough water flow, but first check easy things:

1. Check to see if filter screen on compressor is dirty.

2. Check to see if the strainer in the engine room needs to be cleaned.
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Thank you amd I’ll locate those things tomorrow once I get back to boat amd hopefully it’s the issue
 
Firemedic181 said:
Thank you amd I’ll locate those things tomorrow once I get back to boat amd hopefully it’s the issue
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get a look at the thru hulls while it’s running too. The hoses split off right at the pump in the bilge so the salon can have good flow but a blockage or restriction on the other
 
Firemedic181 said:
Hello all, have a 2000 410 da and yesterday the main state room A/C powered up but wasn’t producing much cold air, at one point it had a reading of either PS or P5 couldn’t tell.
has two 30 AMP cords and I tried switching those due to galley area A/C working great and thinking PS meant power supply, but that didn’t work.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Once you are sure the controller is set to cool, and not heat - 1) Clean the wire mesh air filter on the side of the unit. It just slides up and out from the side of the cooling coil. You can clean it by spraying it with water from a hose. If it was clogged with dust the unit will freeze up and you will need to let it thaw. 2) Make sure the water pump is working and water is coming out of both AC ports on the side of the boat when the compressor is running. If no water is flowing, check to make sure the AC Seacock is completely open. If open and no water is flowing, turn off AC, close seacock and clean the strainer. If the pump is running and the strainer is clean and you still have no water, you may have lost your prime. You can remove the hose as it enters the cooling coil. Many times removing the hose reestablishes the prime itself. Some times you might need to resort by the old fashion Syphon (suck on the end of the hose). If that does not work, you may need to call for service and get the unit charged with coolant. I hope I helped.
 
I guess I should have read further up. I see I offered nothing new.
 
Turkanon said:
I guess I should have read further up. I see I offered nothing new.
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No worries, I for one would rather someone offer to help out with good advice a couple times than everyone stay quiet. Thanks for helping. Reminded me, it's time to clean my filters and fins.
 
OK so here is a tough one.

My rear head vacuflush vacuum generator was running about every 10 minutes. So of course I change all the duckbills - to my surprise no change. I disconnected the hose from the rear head to the vacuum generator with the plug shown in the attached picture and it still cycled every 10 mins so I figured it must be tank system related. I changed the vacuum switch and the fault changed from cycling every 10 minutes to now every 2 hours. I then changed the pump bellows and the system holds past the 2 hours but still loses vacuum over night. I took each of the fittings off of the tank and either used seal tape or pure silicone grease and re-installed them with no change. With the toilet disconnected it still loses vacuum overnight (I turn the breaker off at night and when I turn it on in the am it cycles over to create vacuum).

Any thoughts? Ideas? No visible sign on the tank being cracked and I tried the shaving cream test on all of the joints with no success....

vacuflush1a.jpg
 
Captain Brian said:
OK so here is a tough one.

My rear head vacuflush vacuum generator was running about every 10 minutes. So of course I change all the duckbills - to my surprise no change. I disconnected the hose from the rear head to the vacuum generator with the plug shown in the attached picture and it still cycled every 10 mins so I figured it must be tank system related. I changed the vacuum switch and the fault changed from cycling every 10 minutes to now every 2 hours. I then changed the pump bellows and the system holds past the 2 hours but still loses vacuum over night. I took each of the fittings off of the tank and either used seal tape or pure silicone grease and re-installed them with no change. With the toilet disconnected it still loses vacuum overnight (I turn the breaker off at night and when I turn it on in the am it cycles over to create vacuum).

Any thoughts? Ideas? No visible sign on the tank being cracked and I tried the shaving cream test on all of the joints with no success....

View attachment 111065
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I don't know if you have the same but the hoses coming from my rear head pump have a rather tight radius turn as they head forward. Is it possible you're getting some leaking from the hoses themselves? Mine are a bit cracked though they are not leaking...knock on wood.

upload_2021-8-24_16-4-37.png
 
I thought the same that is why I took the hose from the head off and plugged it. The one that is still attached is the transfer hose to the holding tank and should not effect it as it is never under vacuum..
 
Captain Brian said:
OK so here is a tough one.

My rear head vacuflush vacuum generator was running about every 10 minutes. So of course I change all the duckbills - to my surprise no change. I disconnected the hose from the rear head to the vacuum generator with the plug shown in the attached picture and it still cycled every 10 mins so I figured it must be tank system related. I changed the vacuum switch and the fault changed from cycling every 10 minutes to now every 2 hours. I then changed the pump bellows and the system holds past the 2 hours but still loses vacuum over night. I took each of the fittings off of the tank and either used seal tape or pure silicone grease and re-installed them with no change. With the toilet disconnected it still loses vacuum overnight (I turn the breaker off at night and when I turn it on in the am it cycles over to create vacuum).

Any thoughts? Ideas? No visible sign on the tank being cracked and I tried the shaving cream test on all of the joints with no success....

View attachment 111065
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Look closely for cracks in the pump body where the threaded duckbill fittings connect. If those are tightened too tight it will crack the pump body then there is nothing that can be done except replace the body.
Also look to see if that O-ring that seals the bellows to the pump top plate is correctly installed; it can get out of place when installing the top plate.
I always use a generous coating of silicone grease on all of the rubber parts when assembling. Nothing in the assembly needs to be excessively tightened.
 
ttmott said:
Look closely for cracks in the pump body where the threaded duckbill fittings connect. If those are tightened too tight it will crack the pump body then there is nothing that can be done except replace the body.
Also look to see if that O-ring that seals the bellows to the pump top plate is correctly installed; it can get out of place when installing the top plate.
I always use a generous coating of silicone grease on all of the rubber parts when assembling. Nothing in the assembly needs to be excessively tightened.
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And I can vouch that over tightening the fittings with result in cracking the body, it’s easy to do the first time you fool with it. Not much sticks to it either so not easily repaired.
 
I will look at the pump body next time I am down, I did use the silicone grease and all new O rings so I believe those are good. Very frustrating...
 
Captain Brian said:
I will look at the pump body next time I am down, I did use the silicone grease and all new O rings so I believe those are good. Very frustrating...
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Our pressure switch has to be perfectly positioned to not leak. Try blocking that hole and letting it build vacuum and just shut it off to see if it leaks down. Ours has to be held about 1/8” from bottoming out or it leaks. Silly, but it works so I’m not touching it
 
Captain Brian said:
Interesting, that I can easily try
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I know it’s a long shot, but yeah easy enough to try. I think if i push it all the way in the second oring clears the seat and leaks. It’s really slow, like 24+ hours, but it will eventually kick the pump on.

maniacal, right? I was determined to get vacuum to hold all winter
 
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