420/44 DB Owners Club

Does anyone know if our hull material below the water line is solid or cored? TIA
 
Thanks!

The pictures will help a lot. I can get the wire up and behind the couch from behind the cockpit fridge. It would be better through the engine room if possible.

There is a 110V outlet on the side of the storage under the bed near the floor. That would be a great place for the 12V outlet.

Cheers!
I took a quick look but can't locate the pictures. I will resurrect my old phone and see if they are on it somewhere...
 
I’ve ordered two new vacuum pumps and a new discharge pump.

Call it a pre-emptive strike but all these stories are enough to make me have nightmares. The one thing I don’t want to do when out on the water is to spend my time up to my armpits it you know what … It’s a 16 years old boat now so time to invest so money in the toilet systems.
I don't disagree!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
View attachment 141493 Thanks!

We do not have an opening at the forward part of the flybridge...we have a glass insert with a wiper mounted in it. The curved corners are fixed. I just added a picture...you can really see the wrinkles. The glass insert shows up and the lack of front ventilation. So far, we haven't needed it.

A vent like the 380 Sundancer had would be nice but not needed up here in the Northwest all that often. The sides can be open and maybe the back and no flapping.
@Bruce SEA 993 now that i may have to replace my front center panel I'm considering the panely with wiper option. Do you have additional photos of the setup from the inside. Found this company below that sells them. https://ajrmarinewindows.com/
 
I have the canvas insert that is on their website. It has the wiper built in with the washer. Right now the washer does not work but I don't miss it. I need to replace the little pump...no biggie.

Still would like a vent at the front for some air movement. Sometimes when it is hot here and we are running with the wind, it gets warm up top. The corner isenglass has been replaced with polycarbonate...much better material and it holds its shape and is very clear.
Glass Screen.jpg


I has the same support arms shown on their picture. It is a very simple setup and really works well to keep a clear view in all of our rainy days...or spray over the bow. When I replace the pump I will refill the washer tank with Rain-X washer fluid. The Rain-X does work well on the cars. I used the windshield treatment for years but I find the washer fluid does a good job to touch up as it is harder to apply the polish by hanging out the front of the corner canvas.

I thought the Rain-X fluid was a brand marketing gimmick but it does work.

Anyhow, if you need specific pictures let me know. I will be running down to the boat this afternoon.

Cheers!
 

Attachments

  • Glass Angle.jpg
    Glass Angle.jpg
    4.1 MB · Views: 18
  • Glass Support.jpg
    Glass Support.jpg
    3.8 MB · Views: 19
I have the canvas insert that is on their website. It has the wiper built in with the washer. Right now the washer does not work but I don't miss it. I need to replace the little pump...no biggie.

Still would like a vent at the front for some air movement. Sometimes when it is hot here and we are running with the wind, it gets warm up top. The corner isenglass has been replaced with polycarbonate...much better material and it holds its shape and is very clear.View attachment 160916

I has the same support arms shown on their picture. It is a very simple setup and really works well to keep a clear view in all of our rainy days...or spray over the bow. When I replace the pump I will refill the washer tank with Rain-X washer fluid. The Rain-X does work well on the cars. I used the windshield treatment for years but I find the washer fluid does a good job to touch up as it is harder to apply the polish by hanging out the front of the corner canvas.

I thought the Rain-X fluid was a brand marketing gimmick but it does work.

Anyhow, if you need specific pictures let me know. I will be running down to the boat this afternoon.

Cheers!
Thats great info. Thank you! My only concern is not being able to open for airflow. But i think i could have a vent added to the top of the isenglass panel. Also looks like the control wire and power is run through one of the supports?
 
I could not decide where to mount a second VHF at the helm so placed it underneath the dash and used a remote mic to the left. That way the admiral can easily use it too. Went with a S/H 2400 for the AIS in. Tried to route the VHF nema 2000 AIS data into the E120's with the Raymarine nema converter, no joy. I'll keep the converter so if we need to replace the MFD's I can daisy chain the seatalk 1 autopilot to a seatalk ng/nema 2000 backbone. The radio also has the older nema 0183 output and that routes fine into the MFD. I can see which way the local island ferries are running at a glance and make our course plans way in advance.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_bridge.jpg
    IMG_bridge.jpg
    545.7 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_22_3087.jpg
    IMG_22_3087.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 24
Yes, the control wire goes up one of the struts and the hose for the washer goes up the other.

I may talk to my canvas person. A simple vent would work. The issue is it that it's quite a ways up to the front across the dash. The vent on the 380 was easy to adjust.
 
I found our canvas patterns under the outer guest bunk. They did not include the forward and aft top sections. Anyone have those?
 
Does anyone know if our hull material below the water line is solid or cored? TIA
I just ask sea ray that question about our 2006 44 sedan bridge. They said no coring in hull.
 
Stripped down my cracked salon table, and was able to bring it back to life.
Looks better than new. I want to try this but afraid to make it worse. I have cracks in the clear coat. What was your process to restore?
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
Looks better than new. I want to try this but afraid to make it worse. I have cracks in the clear coat. What was your process to restore?
I sanded by hand with a fine grit sand block until I got past the resin coats. I had a wet rag I used to manage the progress. Keep in mind, the table is not real wood, and I suspect it is a veneer top. Be careful of the black strip, it is thin and you can sand through it. I used a high grade contact paper used for faux wood trim in cars. I cut a template inside of the black border, traced it on the contact paper, cut and then adhered to table top. I also bought a chrome vinyl compass rose that I stuck centered on the table. Last step was a flooding of resin. I was told I could not refinish the table, which to me, meant challenge accepted. I thought, worst case scenario, I’d have to buy a real table. Hope this makes sense.
 
I sanded by hand with a fine grit sand block until I got past the resin coats. I had a wet rag I used to manage the progress. Keep in mind, the table is not real wood, and I suspect it is a veneer top. Be careful of the black strip, it is thin and you can sand through it. I used a high grade contact paper used for faux wood trim in cars. I cut a template inside of the black border, traced it on the contact paper, cut and then adhered to table top. I also bought a chrome vinyl compass rose that I stuck centered on the table. Last step was a flooding of resin. I was told I could not refinish the table, which to me, meant challenge accepted. I thought, worst case scenario, I’d have to buy a real table. Hope this makes sense.
I’m not clear on why you did the contact paper. Can you explain further? Was it to mask off an area?
 
Hello all, newbie here! I wanted to say thank you for all of the excellent information you provide on this site. My Wife and I sold our Four Winns 348 Vista this past Fall, and have been narrowing down which make / model Sedan Bridge to move up into. We've looked at Meridian 411, Silverton 42, Carver 42SS, Cruisers 447 and the Sea Ray 420/44. While every boat has it's trade-offs, we've decided on the Sea Ray, preferably the 44 due to the QSC's, but will consider a well maintained 420. The combination of build quality, layout and styling have the best appeal to us. Now it's time to find the right one!
 
What vintage are you focused in on?
 
Following up on the 12V circuit from the batteries to the guest stateroom for the 120/12V freezer. I was down at the boat this afternoon and was looking from behind the couch backrest cushion forward. in behind there is the deck fill hose and not much else going forward.

Has anyone drilled through the aft panel in the alcove of the guest stateroom portlight? It seems like it would lead directly to the area behind the couch back.

Hoping I described where I am thinking I would like to put the 12v outlet.

Cheers!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,182
Messages
1,428,060
Members
61,088
Latest member
SGT LAT
Back
Top