420 DA Thread

Tomco said:
I watched the mechanic do the engine winterization last season and follow his process myself this year. Similar to Irie's picture, it involves a large rubbermaid container and a piece of 2" hose. Removed the outlet hose from the strainer, connected the extension hose and placed it in the container with 6gal of AF - ran the engines for about 15sec and done. Was able to do it myself. After watching him last season, it was just too simple!
View attachment 94706
I like Irie's set up to the top of the strainer, would save a step. Might modify mine accordingly.

For the AC units, had the same challenge trying to get the AC pump to prime. Instead I've been using a shop vac to suck AF thru the lines - just connect to the outside thru hull. I also do this on the bilge pump lines to ensure there is no water in the line after the check valve.
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Nice setup and seems to work good for you.
I do mine similar to Irie, but use a 5 gallon pail with a thruhull in the bottom side. I connected a hose and a ball valve. Other end is set up for a 3/4" hose for the A/C and Generator, with an adaptor I bring it up to 1 1/2" for the main engines (gas engines). I hang the bucket above the AC pump so I don't have an issue with the prime. On all of these I connect the bucket to the strainer's inlet hose so that it fills the strainer with antifreeze at the same time. I then use a shop vac to blow the water out of the seacock and close the seacock valve.

**** Tom, you may do this, but make sure you have antifreeze in the strainer. The picture looks like you bypassed the strainer with the flush kit you made up.
 
I know I have seen it here, but could someone enlighten me on the easiest/best way to remove the salon HVAC?

If step removal is best, how are they removed?

Thank you,
Bennett
 
Blueone said:
I haven’t done it myself...but what I have seen on here is guys cutting the triangle frame under the tray.... I wouldn’t do that ...I can’t believe it wouldn’t come out with out some disassembly and reassembly if necessary for the new unit....just don’t fall down that trap
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I have seen that too....not a big fan of that. Wonder how big of a deal removing the steps is?

Bennett
 
Just closed on an 03. One of the issues that the surveyor found was that salon a/c will work on a/c but will not switch over to heat. Any thoughts??
 
Going through the same thing. Mine was a FL boat and 3 year old Cruisair unit never had the heat turned on. After talking with Cruisair tech and troubleshooting, reversing valve is bad. I can get it to work one out of maybe 20 times. Unit has to come out for R or R. Trying to understand now the best way to remove it.

Bennett
 
Ouch. I was hoping maybe I could tap on something to free it up. Maybe an electric heater for the 2 times I might need it. Lol!
 
For what it's worth I had mine replaced a couple of seasons ago and the tech told me afterward they pulled out the salon sofa to get the a/c unit out from that side. I wasn't there when he did it but he did it in one day and apparently that was easier than puling the stairs. Hope this helps.
 
SRMark said:
For what it's worth I had mine replaced a couple of seasons ago and the tech told me afterward they pulled out the salon sofa to get the a/c unit out from that side. I wasn't there when he did it but he did it in one day and apparently that was easier than puling the stairs. Hope this helps.
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Thanks
I will have to look into it. Sounds a lot better than pulling things apart and cutting. We’ll see!
 
Irie308 said:
This is my contraption built similar from a friend who is a member on this forum. It’s practically a one man job but one person at the helm makes sure you get every bit of AF from the container. I also picked up one of these for running AF through the gen and ac strainers. Works like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/Trac-Ecological-Flushing-F-groco-1000-1250/dp/B01C04HAN8
View attachment 94350
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What parts did you use to connect to the strainer? I will be attempting this for the first time this friday (day after thanksgiving)
 
I am trying to understand how my fuel tanks are plumbed to the Racor filter. There is a ball valve which feeds the filter and a ball valve that is for fuel return. What is the purpose of the shut off for the return side. Does the existence of a return shut off allow us to choose which tank the return fuel goes to.Thanks
 
Caseclosed said:
I am trying to understand how my fuel tanks are plumbed to the Racor filter. There is a ball valve which feeds the filter and a ball valve that is for fuel return. What is the purpose of the shut off for the return side. Does the existence of a return shut off allow us to choose which tank the return fuel goes to.Thanks
Click to expand...

The return shutoff only helps to not cause fuel to flow back down return line if you disconnect a fuel line or open the racor. Picture putting your thumb on the end of a straw and pulling it out, just a little bit of fuel will backflow. With the valve open the whole return line will drain. There is no factory way to return to a different tank on the the 06 and up boats. Older boats have separate supply and return generator lines.
 
swaterhouse said:
The return shutoff only helps to not cause fuel to flow back down return line if you disconnect a fuel line or open the racor. Picture putting your thumb on the end of a straw and pulling it out, just a little bit of fuel will backflow. With the valve open the whole return line will drain. There is no factory way to return to a different tank on the the 06 and up boats. Older boats have separate supply and return generator lines.
Click to expand...


Thank you for explaining the fuel valve set up. Very much appreciated
 
h_gerry said:
Nice setup and seems to work good for you.
I do mine similar to Irie, but use a 5 gallon pail with a thruhull in the bottom side. I connected a hose and a ball valve. Other end is set up for a 3/4" hose for the A/C and Generator, with an adaptor I bring it up to 1 1/2" for the main engines (gas engines). I hang the bucket above the AC pump so I don't have an issue with the prime. On all of these I connect the bucket to the strainer's inlet hose so that it fills the strainer with antifreeze at the same time. I then use a shop vac to blow the water out of the seacock and close the seacock valve.

**** Tom, you may do this, but make sure you have antifreeze in the strainer. The picture looks like you bypassed the strainer with the flush kit you made up.
Click to expand...

Hi Harold,

I would like to use a pail (would just be neater) than the container I used but need at least 6 gal for my diesels - this way I can do it in one run (and by myself). You are correct that I bypass the strainer with this method. My strainers have drains on the bottom that I use to empty the water and then I vacuum them out so they are empty for the winter. By not filling the strainers I save about 4 -5 gal of antifreeze (I have 4 large strainers) - not sure I see a reason, in my boats' config, to fill the strainers.

Cheers,
 
Salon AC replacement....our boat was the second one the AC Tech did in August 2016. He had to cut some notches to get it out/in. It doesn't impact the plastic tray under the counter piece.

Jaybeaux 20190418_010638.jpg 20190418_010630.jpg 20190418_010619.jpg
 
Jaybeaux said:
Salon AC replacement....our boat was the second one the AC Tech did in August 2016. He had to cut some notches to get it out/in. It doesn't impact the plastic tray under the counter piece.

JaybeauxView attachment 95463 View attachment 95464 View attachment 95465
Click to expand...
Geez.... with an axe ?.... that doesn’t look good. If you take the beam out and the sofa.... would the AC unit not go that way... and back in that way?
I would disassemble to if I had to but I wouldn’t cut the triangle.... can’t the part of the triangle be unscrewed from underneath where he cut it?
 
Blueone said:
I took the valance off .....it’s just held on by the screws you can see after you remove the mattress. The wire connection is on the port side of the bed
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Hi @Blueone - thanks for your valuable tip! I finally got around to starting this project:

1) Removed the phillips screws holding the valance to the master bed and removed the valance.
2) Used screwdriver/plyers to remove the staples attaching the rope lights to the bed.
3) Removed additional screws that hold down the board under the mattress (note I only had to remove the ones toward the front and sides ... I left the ones toward the back (bow) in place.
4) inserted the handle of a screwdriver to slightly bend the board up and give me room to remove the remaining staples from each end of the rope light.
5) IMG_8323.JPG Here is the rope light unstapled but still plugged in ... you can see all but 4 of the individual lights within the rope are burned out.
6) IMG_8324.JPG The blade connectors attaching the rope light to the boat wiring can be pulled out of the crevasse where they are stuffed.

@Blueone - what did you replace yours with? I found this Imtra Marine Products rope light for sale for $2 per foot from Sailor Sams:

https://www.sailorsams.com/Imtra-12-Volt-DC-LED-Rope-Lights-Blue-Red-WW-or-WH-LEDs_p_14137.html
 
Random question.......

What is that yellow goop that we put on the end of the hose connections so that the hoses are easy to remove? I remember someone calling in Gorilla Snot.....It's been three years this fall and I am gearing up to pull the Aftercoolers and Heatexchangers.

Thanks.

Jaybeaux
 
Jaybeaux said:
Random question.......

What is that yellow goop that we put on the end of the hose connections so that the hoses are easy to remove? I remember someone calling in Gorilla Snot.....It's been three years this fall and I am gearing up to pull the Aftercoolers and Heatexchangers.

Thanks.

Jaybeaux
Click to expand...

Ha, "Gorilla Snot" that was me, but it was a post about what to use to reattach the engine hatch gaskets
with 3M weather strip adhesive.
Not sure about the hose lube you need.
 
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