420 DA Thread

Hey Folks - sorry for the long post. New 04 420DA owner moved up from a 34DA. In part because of you all and all the great info you post!

I was looking at threads for answers on a problem and found an old thread #2617 (http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/420-da-thread.1273/page-131)

I have similar issue on water trapped in closed compartments or stringer and I see where a lot of you have cut the holes to access the compartment between the engines (Thanks for pics of the cut out)and someone recently had a cracking problem there. I'm going to do this but I don't think it helps my current issue.

What I'm looking to access is the compartment in the salon area under the shower sump or stringers. I have a little weeping into the compartment behind the shower sump from either the the stringer or the closed compartment, I think?

It doesn't look like the stringers go the length of the boat so assume some water is coming in from the salon area not the ER. All compartments I can see are dry.

When the boat was surveyed the bottom tapped out well as did the deck and free board, no blisters on the bottom no moisture on the meter anywhere and a little water in bilge areas seemed normal.

Only now when the boat is covered and out hard and it keeps weeping, does it seem like a problem.

Sorry if I missed the remediation info on this and if anyone knows where to put access that would be great. Hate to go in blind...

Thank you all!
 
Hello,

The power vent glass in the windshield on my '05 420 DA shattered and I need to replace it. I've contacted Sea Ray, Taylor Made, and several manufacturers with no success. Its a curved piece of glass so not easy to fabricate. Any suggestions or options appreciated.

Paul
 
How do you guys typically access the port and gen Racors to change filters? Facing forward and through the small bilge access panel? I guess I should be thankful that I am 6’4” and long arms....rebuilding the the vacuum generator on the that side was hell. Batteries were not too bad, but if you had to remove/replace the battery trays...good luck...thanks!

Bennett
 
paul1543 said:
Hello,

The power vent glass in the windshield on my '05 420 DA shattered and I need to replace it. I've contacted Sea Ray, Taylor Made, and several manufacturers with no success. Its a curved piece of glass so not easy to fabricate. Any suggestions or options appreciated.

Paul
Click to expand...

Do you mean it has curved edges, but it is flat, meaning that he thing will lay in a single plane? My 2004 420 appears to be flat.

If you could make a template, I don't know why a good glass shop couldn't make one for you. I'd use tempered glass (just a wild ass guess on my part) and have them drill the holes.

Keep us posted on how this works out.

Jaybeaux
 
My wife and I have the upholstery off the boat and at the shop. We are having a difficult time deciding on colors. Blue hull.
Option 1: dune(tan) and white
Option 2: mostly stock(white) with navy accents.
 

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bbwhitejr said:
How do you guys typically access the port and gen Racors to change filters? Facing forward and through the small bilge access panel? I guess I should be thankful that I am 6’4” and long arms....rebuilding the the vacuum generator on the that side was hell. Batteries were not too bad, but if you had to remove/replace the battery trays...good luck...thanks!

Bennett
Click to expand...
For the fuel shutoff valve, I approach it from up top, laying with my feet facing forward. For the Racors, I try to get them done from the front side of the engines, before my legs start to cramp up. A big moving blanket over the top of the Portside batteries can be your friend. I have wiggled out from there over the exhaust tube, but it is tight!

I changed my batteries a few years ago, and frankly it wasn't that hard as long as you have a buddy with some decent arm strength. I used a rope and with him suspending the battery from the top, I was down below guiding the battery down, over, down, and over.

Good luck,

Jaybeaux
 
LIbayrat said:
My wife and I have the upholstery off the boat and at the shop. We are having a difficult time deciding on colors. Blue hull.
Option 1: dune(tan) and white
Option 2: mostly stock(white) with navy accents.
Click to expand...
I vote mostly white with blue accents and an interesting stitch pattern in the insets.
 
bbwhitejr said:
How do you guys typically access the port and gen Racors to change filters? Facing forward and through the small bilge access panel? I guess I should be thankful that I am 6’4” and long arms....rebuilding the the vacuum generator on the that side was hell. Batteries were not too bad, but if you had to remove/replace the battery trays...good luck...thanks!

Bennett
Click to expand...
Take out the side floor panel and remove the 6 foot metal floor support for the panel.....(I took the 4 bolts that secure it to the floor out awhile back and keep them out for easy in/out on that support piece). I lay a thick piece of foam down on the batteries as Jaybreaux said. Make sure everything you need is reachable BEFORE you go down there. Other things you might consider doing at the same time are: Port engine pencil zinc replacement, generator zinc replacement, generator oil filter replacement, inspect/clean/tighten/replace all 3 port side battery leads.
 
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Jaybeaux said:
Do you mean it has curved edges, but it is flat, meaning that he thing will lay in a single plane? My 2004 420 appears to be flat.

If you could make a template, I don't know why a good glass shop couldn't make one for you. I'd use tempered glass (just a wild ass guess on my part) and have them drill the holes.

Keep us posted on how this works out.

Jaybeaux[/QUOT

Thanks for the reply. However, this piece of glass (on my '05) has a slight bow to it besides the curved edges, so even making a template is tricky. I found a place in Florida that would make it, IF I could make a template (not sure how to make a curved one?). I have a piece of plexiglass duct taped in there for now. I know, very classy!
Click to expand...
 
brewster16 said:
Take out the side floor panel and remove the 6 foot metal floor support for the panel.....(I took the 4 bolts that secure it to the floor out awhile back and keep them out for easy in/out on that support piece). I lay a thick piece of foam down on the batteries as Jaybreaux said. Make sure everything you need is reachable BEFORE you go down there. Other things you might consider doing at the same time are: Port engine pencil zinc replacement, generator zinc replacement, generator oil filter replacement, inspect/clean/tighten/replace all 3 port side battery leads.
Click to expand...

So you guys actually get down in the bilge on the outboard side of the port engine? Maybe sit on the batteries? I have not taken the aluminum piece out, but I will look into this. I think like you suggest in getting everything I need with me before going down in a hole like that. Invariably, I always forget something...will give this a shot this weekend!

Bennett
 
Make sure you have your cell phone down there as well. In the event you do get stuck, you can call for help. Good luck!
(I will be doing this as well in the spring)
 
brewster16 said:
Grab a hold of the back cushion and top of couch which are one big piece. Firmly lift it straight up because there are stainless pins that hold it in place. There is some velcro strips as well that need to break free. Lift the whole unit up and put it aside and you will see all the electronics, wires, boxes, amps that run televisions, sound systems, satellite etc.
Click to expand...

@brewster16 - Thanks it was as easy as you said:

IMG_8497.JPG
 
After accessing the amp, I ended up removing the original Sirius tuner (SIR-CL1) that was part of the previous Clarion receiver system:
IMG_8503.jpg


When the previous owner upgraded to the Fusion system, the old Clarion tuner was just left there disconnected.

I am considering purchasing the Fusion compatible Sirius tuner (SXV300) for $69.99:
Untitled.png

It looks like since I already have a SiriusXM subscription in my car that I should be able to add the boat as an "additional radio" for an extra $10.99 per month.

My question - the old Clarion Sirius tuner (was it OEM to 2004 420 DA's?) had an antenna cable plugged into it. I haven't put through the effort to trace it yet - but would guess that it goes to one of the antenna's on my canopy. Here are my questions:

1) Does anybody know which antenna on their canopy is the Sirius antenna?

2) Does anybody know if that antenna will work with the newer SiriusXM SKV300 tuner?

Thanks!
 
hynespa said:
After accessing the amp, I ended up removing the original Sirius tuner (SIR-CL1) that was part of the previous Clarion receiver system:
View attachment 101003

When the previous owner upgraded to the Fusion system, the old Clarion tuner was just left there disconnected.

I am considering purchasing the Fusion compatible Sirius tuner (SXV300) for $69.99:
View attachment 101004
It looks like since I already have a SiriusXM subscription in my car that I should be able to add the boat as an "additional radio" for an extra $10.99 per month.

My question - the old Clarion Sirius tuner (was it OEM to 2004 420 DA's?) had an antenna cable plugged into it. I haven't put through the effort to trace it yet - but would guess that it goes to one of the antenna's on my canopy. Here are my questions:

1) Does anybody know which antenna on their canopy is the Sirius antenna?

2) Does anybody know if that antenna will work with the newer SiriusXM SKV300 tuner?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I replaced the exact clairon sat tuner with the exact SKV300, the original antenna works fine all you need is the fakra adaptor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PN64LMR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
upload_2021-3-10_21-22-56.png
 
Greatly looking forward to our sophomore year at the helm. Having a ball planning all the chores and may-as-well jobs once Spring comes to Toronto.

2 questions

There would seem to be a built-in sleeve designed to hold the salon sink cover in the tall sliding drawer next to the wall . Ee could not open the drawer wide enough to drop the cover in in the way it would appear go. Is it somehow adjustable. Seems like we just need another inch of travel. Suggestions?

Secondly, what's the protocol for maintaining the A/C units? I have no idea on the history or status, other than the 3 all seemed to work fine last year. Suggestions?

Not a question but any hints or warnings on how best to switch out the impeller SBMAR provided for our Sherwood pumps would be also greatly appreciated.
 
The sink cover on our boat fits in a pocket frame on the inside of the cabinet door below the sink. There is no adjustment on the drawer slides on the end cabinet that I am Aware of.... We keep cutting boards in those slots

AC...the only thing you can really do is keep the lines clear, keep drain tube from the pan clean and free of debris, basket clean and wash the mesh filters on the units...very important

Don’t have Tony’s pumps so can’t help there other than they are suppose to be easier with splines compared to the key way on the OE
 
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Blueone said:
The sink cover on our boat fits in a pocket frame on the inside of the cabinet door below the sink. There is no adjustment on the drawer slides on the end cabinet that I am Aware of.... We keep cutting boards in those slots

AC...the only thing you can really do is keep the lines clear, keep drain tube from the pan clean and free of debris, basket clean and wash the mesh filters on the units...very important

Don’t have Tony’s pumps so can’t help there other than they are suppose to be easier with splines compared to the key way on the OE
Click to expand...

Apologies, I said sink cover but meant the cover over the stove. The big one.
 
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