mquiet
Well-Known Member
EZ2CY is the best. Agree, ever touch when cold out. The only downside is the cost.
480 DB Owners Club
- Thread starter Four Suns
- Start date
scooper321
Well-Known Member
Last year we did a full enclosure on our 400DB. We did Markalon for all of the panels, except for the areas we roll up (two fronts, two sides and rear). Those parts are Strataglass. The remaining solid panels we never roll or fold. After two years all of it still looks great and is holding up well. We do take it down and store it indoors, Dec to March.
Ranger Mike
Member
Thanks for that Rich. I'm still deciding which way to go on this. I agree that changing out the units will likely be cheaper than installing an inverter. Hmmm. Gonna have to think on this for a while. Mike
mquiet
Well-Known Member
I have another thought to add to this. I currently have an inverter and I have a solar panel mounted on my flybridge ceiling. My inverter runs the frig,freezer, interior lights, outlets, water, and vacuflushes. Then out on the hook either overnight or just during the day I run my generator for the heat and AC. When traveling I run the generator for the same reason. So in reality I never use the inverter. In hindsight I feel it is a waste of space.
SeadawgVB
Active Member
OK Guys and Gals, offer on the third 480 has been accepted. I know that this is just the first hurdle, but it even seemed difficult to reach (until this third boat). Anyhow, I have a couple of direct questions (instead of the usual "what should I look for").
1) What is the deal with the oil level in the QSM motors? Is the dipstick wrong? Is the manual wrong?
2) There is/was an issue with some water cooling where a bracket or hose was causing issues and spraying raw water on the QSM? (I think?) or was it the trans coolers?
3) Did I read on this thread (of course I can't seem to find it now) about water intrusion into the coring? Was it the rub-rail end caps? Or am I confusing this with the 460DA?
Besides that, what should I look for?
1) What is the deal with the oil level in the QSM motors? Is the dipstick wrong? Is the manual wrong?
2) There is/was an issue with some water cooling where a bracket or hose was causing issues and spraying raw water on the QSM? (I think?) or was it the trans coolers?
3) Did I read on this thread (of course I can't seem to find it now) about water intrusion into the coring? Was it the rub-rail end caps? Or am I confusing this with the 460DA?
Besides that, what should I look for?
On #1 I think when Cummins installs a QSM11 they put the specified amount oil in and then mark the the dip stick. Also seems like Tony wrote an article on QSM11 oil levels if my memory is correct.
#2 is a recall issue, contact Cummins w the ESN and they will tell you if it’s been done or needs to be. Gear oil cooler bracket. Seems like also there is a H/E bracket upgrade or recall to look into.
if you get the boat, get the props pitched right to get gph down (result is egt stays down) otherwise you’ll cook exhaust manifolds, elbow risers, exhaust gasket leaks, etc over time—many posts and articles on this. Once done, engines should be as good as any if maintained.
#2 is a recall issue, contact Cummins w the ESN and they will tell you if it’s been done or needs to be. Gear oil cooler bracket. Seems like also there is a H/E bracket upgrade or recall to look into.
if you get the boat, get the props pitched right to get gph down (result is egt stays down) otherwise you’ll cook exhaust manifolds, elbow risers, exhaust gasket leaks, etc over time—many posts and articles on this. Once done, engines should be as good as any if maintained.
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,365
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
#1 I believe the manual says 9 gallons, I run 7.5
#2 As WDR stated, Cummins will upgrade the trans cooler bracket for free, also look for a cracked bracket holding the huge coolant tank and oil leaking from the front gasket near alternator. The gaskets can be replaced but the engines need lifted to do this.
#3 Some of us have had water enter around the lower rubrail caps (bullets) while underway but a good reseal fixes it.
Also, make sure the air cleaners have been replaced as the originals disintegrate and send screen material through the turbo. I would assume they've been replaced by now though on a ~20 year old boat.
As stated above look for signs of exhaust leaks around the manifold, run your hand behind it and along the stainless tubes as that's where the soot tends to stick. Also, pay attention to cruise RPM and fuel burn. If it's been over propped for ~20 years just know that an exhaust leak will show up at some point if not already. You should be propped at 20 GPH max at 2000 RPM to have a fighting chance.
#2 As WDR stated, Cummins will upgrade the trans cooler bracket for free, also look for a cracked bracket holding the huge coolant tank and oil leaking from the front gasket near alternator. The gaskets can be replaced but the engines need lifted to do this.
#3 Some of us have had water enter around the lower rubrail caps (bullets) while underway but a good reseal fixes it.
Also, make sure the air cleaners have been replaced as the originals disintegrate and send screen material through the turbo. I would assume they've been replaced by now though on a ~20 year old boat.
As stated above look for signs of exhaust leaks around the manifold, run your hand behind it and along the stainless tubes as that's where the soot tends to stick. Also, pay attention to cruise RPM and fuel burn. If it's been over propped for ~20 years just know that an exhaust leak will show up at some point if not already. You should be propped at 20 GPH max at 2000 RPM to have a fighting chance.
SeadawgVB
Active Member
Thank you for the reply!
I think the other bracket that needs to be swapped out is the coolant reservoir attachment bracket. Is that what you may be thinking of, or is the an issue with the H/E bracket as well?
As far as the props, I'll have a good look at the fuel consumption @ 2000 rpm during sea trail to see how far off it is from Tony's recommended 18.6GPH.
SeadawgVB
Active Member
Thank you for your reply as well.
I did sign up on boatdiesel and have ready many posts. I saw the post about the front seal leaking and the giant lifting apparatus Tony Athens created for lifting the front of the QSM in order to replace the porous seal.... Good grief.
I've heard about the air cleaners, this boat has the Walkers on it.
If the water got in through the rubrail endcaps, did the coring need remediation (Is there coring at that location?) For some reason, water intrusion scares me more than exhaust manifold leaks!
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,365
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
Not sure what year you're looking at but somewhere around 2001 the 480DB was changed to solid glass from the waterline to rubrail while still leaving coring below the waterline. I would assume the lower rubrail is high enough to be in solid glass. I just sealed mine up and never gave it more thought.
no, that’s what I meant. Cooler reservoir bracket (I just call that whole component the H/E). Quality Time is right on running the 7.5 gallons is what I’ve seen the most, the 9 gallons may include some filter capacity.
I’d find the nearest actual Cummins Marine location and pay one of their mechanics to come go over everything with you. If the recall has to be done Cummins will pay for one of their guys to come to the boat anyway.
SeadawgVB
Active Member
Looking at an '04.
dcpringle
Active Member
- Dec 13, 2012
- 492
- Boat Info
- 2000 Sea Ray 480DB "Diamond Girl"
- Engines
- Cat 3196 660HP
My panels are probably 8-10 years old. I had to have 1 replaced which i tried to remove during the winter... bad idea...
Ranger Mike
Member
Rich, Have you made the switch to the Isotherm units, or are you still considering it? Has anyone else changed out the AC-only fridge/freezer units to dual voltage AC/DC? Seems like a great idea. Is there a downside?
Mike
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Dragging my feat to replace since both still work well. The SubZero Refrigerator collects moisture inside but other than that no issues.
Biggest reason to replace w/ 120v & 12v is to keep them running in the afternoons on the hook or on a cool overnight when we can turn the generator off.
Jeremy has these same units I believe. They also may be OEM for his newer model boat.
- May 16, 2019
- 1,035
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
Do you have any sharp corners the EZ2CY glass bends around? I have several but two became an issue and cracked. Installer Taylor Custom Canvas made the first repair last fall under warranty. I didn’t love his repair but he repair/patch was clean and covered the vertical spider web cracks with the white canvas material used throughout. Looked ok and I was happy but then the cracks spread outside his patch and also to the other corner which he said was not going to fail the way the first one did...Taylor Canvas Co didn’t want to address the issue this time, as we moved 3hrs from there shop even though I was willing to drive them to him... a bit of a red flag if you ask me. Manufacturer Jeff Smith closer said he would make the repairs, he was 30 minutes from me and seemed like a good solution. He said he would replace the glass if needed or do a patch.
His repairs attached in the pictures are little disappointing. Glass corners (spider web cracks) were cut out and White materials added to span the gap and make the corner. Maybe ok if done well cleanly. Materials are not attached well in some spots, he used two pieces of Material on the Port Side and One piec on the starboard side, there are gaps, bubbles and i fear water will get between the material and the adhesive will pull away.
Manufacturer now says the corner was too sharp which caused the cracking. Although they never stated this before. Jeff Smith (Ez2CY) is full of excuses. We are 3 years in although the first cracks started at year 2.
What do you guys think? Live with it? Or fight it?
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From my understanding and research into what I want to install - Ex2CY is Acrylic sheet which is "Plexiglas" with UV and other finishes applied. It has very limited elasticity and consequently doesn't do well in tight bends. I'm sure it can be bent and formed around a hot mandrel but then that is permanent and would be problematic in removing the enclosure. That bridge back corner, it seems, needs to be either a wide strip of canvas or the corner panels replaced with a vinyl like Strataglass.
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SeadawgVB
Active Member
OK Guys, onboard at this moment during survey. Where is the Glomex amplifier / switch box thingy? Also water pressure seems to take a while (with the onboard freshwater pump) to bring the system up to pressure and turn itself off. Is there an accumulator on board?
Also, the rearmost subzero refrigerator has the icemaker and uline controller that only goes down to 34 degrees and does not seem to get cool enough, is it toast?
So far I've seen nothing that makes me want to run / walk away, or even make me a little nervous, except the difference is size from my 360DA!
Also, the rearmost subzero refrigerator has the icemaker and uline controller that only goes down to 34 degrees and does not seem to get cool enough, is it toast?
So far I've seen nothing that makes me want to run / walk away, or even make me a little nervous, except the difference is size from my 360DA!
quality time
Well-Known Member
- Oct 30, 2007
- 2,365
- Boat Info
- Miss Stress
2006 50' Post
- Engines
- Series 60 Detroits
Glomex box is in the cabinet just forward of the electronics cabinet on the STBD side of salon.
There is a very small accumulator mounted above the pumps. Are both pump switches turned on? Mine does not take more than a few seconds to build pressure.
My freezer has no issue holding a couple degrees. Possibly the coils are dirty but sounds like it could be toast.
There is a very small accumulator mounted above the pumps. Are both pump switches turned on? Mine does not take more than a few seconds to build pressure.
My freezer has no issue holding a couple degrees. Possibly the coils are dirty but sounds like it could be toast.
