480 DB Owners Club

I gave my subzero fridge a smidge of Freon a year ago, changed the door gasket and it’s fine. On freezer I bought oem Icemaker direct replacement from amazon for around $75 and the water line controller for ice and all works fine. Also replaced the temp controller in freezer as someone had jumped across it and it was running all time, which is one way to check whether it is thermo switch or not. I also figured out that glomex in the back of the cabinet on STB side cuts off the local antennas feed when another feed (sat/cable) is active, but mine is messed up. Which engines are you looking at?
 
WDR said:
I gave my subzero fridge a smidge of Freon a year ago, changed the door gasket and it’s fine. On freezer I bought oem Icemaker direct replacement from amazon for around $75 and the water line controller for ice and all works fine. Also replaced the temp controller in freezer as someone had jumped across it and it was running all time, which is one way to check whether it is thermo switch or not. I also figured out that glomex in the back of the cabinet on STB side cuts off the local antennas feed when another feed (sat/cable) is active, but mine is messed up. Which engines are you looking at?
Click to expand...

QSM-11 motors. Still haven't found the glomex, but not a showstopper. Haul out as soon as we can find the travel lift operator.

New exhaust manifolds and turbos in 2015, no soot showing now. No oil weeping from the timing cover. BUT burning about 22GPH at 2000 rpms.
 
Sounds over propped It’ll cook those manifolds quick, the egt is probably at 1400-1500 degrees or more, shouldn’t be more than about a 1000 and preferably 900-950. when it cooks them, it’s new gaskets, bolts, spacers, manifolds, possibly the heat shields (very expensive -$2400 for just the manifold part), shortens turbo life and destroys those custom risers d’angelos made at about $1800 each. Get the prop pitch correct and that all pretty much goes away and an awesome boat!
 
WDR hit the nail on the head. Start by removing an inch of pitch but you may need a little more depending on how loaded you run.
 
R
ttmott said:
From my understanding and research into what I want to install - Ex2CY is Acrylic sheet which is "Plexiglas" with UV and other finishes applied. It has very limited elasticity and consequently doesn't do well in tight bends. I'm sure it can be bent and formed around a hot mandrel but then that is permanent and would be problematic in removing the enclosure. That bridge back corner, it seems, needs to be either a wide strip of canvas or the corner panels replaced with a vinyl like Strataglass.
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Tom, Mine are EZ2CY and no issues with the corners......

923268BC-35CC-4AB0-90C1-7F2601754D0D.jpeg


062D1D14-4C88-4FF5-B156-AB5F6542A2D8.jpeg
 
ttmott said:
Man that looks great. Doesn't look like any tight radius corners in they way they did yours.
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That does look good but I am not sure the back corners are on any less of a radius compared to mine?

3756A33E-D87A-4041-8471-1A06D01CD928.jpeg
 
What insurance companies do you guys use? I have BoatUS, which is Geico. I have had them for years on a couple different boats and never had a claim......until now. Long story short. I had the boat pulled to wax from the water line to the rub rail. I wax the rest myself and planned on having the boat pulled to wax the gunwalls every other year. My boat stays under a covered slip year round so it does not sit out in full sun all the time. I had the boat yard check the props since I had gotten into some mud earlier in the year and they noticed that my starboard strut appeared to be bent (I cannot see it bent but can see the shaft is not centered in the strut). The props were okay, but the shaft was rubbing the strut making it very difficult to turn the prop by hand. They pulled the shaft and it is within tolerances. My guess is it is pervious damage from the previous owner. Anyway, they suggested an insurance claim since the strut is very expensive and it could have been damaged when I got into the bottom.

Fast forward to the claim. I was told that due to the age of my boat the coverage on propulsion parts is 20%....thus me covering the other 80%. Since when is a fixed object mounted to the boat considered a propulsion part? I get that it holds the shaft in place, but it does not turn or move in anyway. Is this normal practice for boat insurance?

I will be changing insurance companies.

More updates later.......

Keith
 
The crime scene said:
What insurance companies do you guys use? I have BoatUS, which is Geico. I have had them for years on a couple different boats and never had a claim......until now. Long story short. I had the boat pulled to wax from the water line to the rub rail. I wax the rest myself and planned on having the boat pulled to wax the gunwalls every other year. My boat stays under a covered slip year round so it does not sit out in full sun all the time. I had the boat yard check the props since I had gotten into some mud earlier in the year and they noticed that my starboard strut appeared to be bent (I cannot see it bent but can see the shaft is not centered in the strut). The props were okay, but the shaft was rubbing the strut making it very difficult to turn the prop by hand. They pulled the shaft and it is within tolerances. My guess is it is pervious damage from the previous owner. Anyway, they suggested an insurance claim since the strut is very expensive and it could have been damaged when I got into the bottom.

Fast forward to the claim. I was told that due to the age of my boat the coverage on propulsion parts is 20%....thus me covering the other 80%. Since when is a fixed object mounted to the boat considered a propulsion part? I get that it holds the shaft in place, but it does not turn or move in anyway. Is this normal practice for boat insurance?

I will be changing insurance companies.

More updates later.......

Keith
Click to expand...

At that point, don't even bother submitting the claim. Your claim will haunt you when you apply for the next carrier and the differential will likely cost more than the 20%.
 
So, the survey and the sea trail went great UNTIL the haul out. Found two spots of delamination / blistering on the hull, between the strakes in the region of the sea water trainer inlets for the mains. In the pic below, you can easily see it just to the right of the intake. The port side has a similar 'feature', just not quite as large.....
50597872313_c4f9b5cdb0_c.jpg


So the question I have for the squad, is this a sign of continuous future woes for this hull, or are all 480s destined for blistering / delamination since they ALL have balsa down below?

The current owner will fix it (most likely, but have not yet officially asked), and if it is fixed properly at a proper facility, am I just waiting for more future problems? This boat is in great shape overall with this exception. There aren't a lot of these on the market right now and I'm not quite ready to walk / run away. Currently waiting on build sheets and lamination schedules from Sea Ray......
 
My water heater has begun to leak. Looks like I'll need to replace it. Not having any luck finding a direct replacement. Has anyone replaced one recently? Suggestions? Thanks!
 
(2004 480DB) For those of you that have replaced the Sharp convection/microwave combo oven, was there a vent tube in the back when you pulled it out? I recently replaced the kitchen vent fan motor behind the freezer (but only had to remove the fridge). It has a Y connector on the vent tubes and looks like the other one goes that direction. Without a vent, there is no way that sharp convection has the clearance it would need. Reason I ask is my sharp touch screen is crap (we just know what buttons to push) and Sams club is giving these away (see pic, less than $200) if it checks out for home duty, it looks like it would fit but would need ventilation to help w the heat. If that vent is pulling from there it should be ok.
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SeadawgVB said:
So, the survey and the sea trail went great UNTIL the haul out. Found two spots of delamination / blistering on the hull, between the strakes in the region of the sea water trainer inlets for the mains. In the pic below, you can easily see it just to the right of the intake. The port side has a similar 'feature', just not quite as large.....
50597872313_c4f9b5cdb0_c.jpg


So the question I have for the squad, is this a sign of continuous future woes for this hull, or are all 480s destined for blistering / delamination since they ALL have balsa down below?

The current owner will fix it (most likely, but have not yet officially asked), and if it is fixed properly at a proper facility, am I just waiting for more future problems? This boat is in great shape overall with this exception. There aren't a lot of these on the market right now and I'm not quite ready to walk / run away. Currently waiting on build sheets and lamination schedules from Sea Ray......
Click to expand...
That is a big blister. So that area where the thru hulls are is wood layered between the glass as I remember. Usually the blisters are dug out and filled with glass and epoxy. Then new bottom coat. Boats will have anywhere from 1 to 25 of these. I would get a copy quotes from people that fix these.
 
Personal view here but assuming none of the core is damaged, this would not scare me. In fact, it's in an easily repaired area and it gets bottom painted anyway. Investigate the damage and see how bad it really is. I guess the owner is going to repair regardless if they sell? Stand by and observe the process and details.
 
SeadawgVB said:
So, the survey and the sea trail went great UNTIL the haul out. Found two spots of delamination / blistering on the hull, between the strakes in the region of the sea water trainer inlets for the mains. In the pic below, you can easily see it just to the right of the intake. The port side has a similar 'feature', just not quite as large.....
50597872313_c4f9b5cdb0_c.jpg


So the question I have for the squad, is this a sign of continuous future woes for this hull, or are all 480s destined for blistering / delamination since they ALL have balsa down below?

The current owner will fix it (most likely, but have not yet officially asked), and if it is fixed properly at a proper facility, am I just waiting for more future problems? This boat is in great shape overall with this exception. There aren't a lot of these on the market right now and I'm not quite ready to walk / run away. Currently waiting on build sheets and lamination schedules from Sea Ray......
Click to expand...
No big deal here. Have the seller repair them. Most boats have blisters from time to time and are easily repaired. If the survey looks good then congratulations on your new boat.

Keith
 
WDR said:
I gave my subzero fridge a smidge of Freon a year ago, changed the door gasket and it’s fine. On freezer I bought oem Icemaker direct replacement from amazon for around $75 and the water line controller for ice and all works fine. Also replaced the temp controller in freezer as someone had jumped across it and it was running all time, which is one way to check whether it is thermo switch or not. I also figured out that glomex in the back of the cabinet on STB side cuts off the local antennas feed when another feed (sat/cable) is active, but mine is messed up. Which engines are you looking at?
Click to expand...
 
My ‘04 has the same dead ice maker was the replacement straight forward or any tip or tricks necessary to update the unit?
 
Block Bound said:
My ‘04 has the same dead ice maker was the replacement straight forward or any tip or tricks necessary to update the unit?
Click to expand...

No. It’s simple. There’s a YouTube video on it too, only 2 screws I think on the ice maker and electric plug. I also had to change the water fill valve, way more time getting freezer out than the 10 minutes to change the 2 items. There is a test sequence on that ice maker you do using jumper wires. It could just be your water fill valve. I’d give You the sequence but I’m 3hours away from boat. It’s probably online some where. Double check those part numbers in the photos against the part numbers in the subzero parts list by serial number On your freezer cause that valve changes at some point. There’s other cheaper Icemakers that claim they will fit, but it didn’t look like the wires would match the existing plugs. Also, it won’t make ice until it gets down to 10f so that could also be an issue. Hope this helps
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