Just replaced mine those little buggers where $4,000 I have 1 stainless exhaust tube and 1 fiberglass one. Weird
500/520 DB official thread
- Thread starter Havana Shamrock
- Start date
cod
Active Member
Hmmm..... Interesting. I have fiberglass exhaust tubes and always assumed they were original. Looking at the parts manual, they do show SS.
Mac Magic
Member
You know I should listen to the experts. Water manifold is leaking. I assume it’s not difficult to replace. But I need to shut the water off from the main tank to the manifold, correct. If you could give me a little insight on to how to replace that would be great
Mac Magic
Member
I wonder if I need to replace the washers in the connections???
Mac Magic
Member
here are pics of mine. Port is ss, starboard fiberglass. Both exhaust risers were replaced last year, the tubes aren’t the risers. The ss tube one has a marker from dangelo. I’m going to reach out and get it replaced. No marking on the fiberglass.
It appears that the fiberglass side was previously a leaking stainless tube and someone replaced with the fiberglass; the elbow coupling was also replaced. I noticed also someone has disconnected the temperature sensors which need to be reconnected. The engine ECM monitors that sensor. Should you loose cooling water these temperature sensors are the only instrument that lets you know there are problems with the raw water system. That is other than overheating the engines or flooding and sinking the boat.
I can't tell but there should be a bonding tab on that stainless tube like you see on the risers and a green bonding wire attached. I'll bet that if you are seeing pin holes and water leaking that there is no bonding wire on that tab....
Also, not to be picky but that sure is a dinky raw water pump on the port side..... Which provides raw cooling water for three HVAC units. I think you will find in the heat of the summer here in Florida that your Master Stateroom HVAC unit will tend to trip on HI PS because it's not getting enough cooling water. A known problem and well discussed on this here forum...
Mac Magic
Member
There is actually a binding wire in the ss one and I did just notice that heat sensor wire missing. Cockroach who services the boat must have not replaced it. Hard to find good people down here in fla.
Mac Magic
Member
Haha you are good!!! Yes master hvac does trip HI PS often. What size pump should I put in?
We've all blazed that trail also; as it ends up you will find the water leaking from between the fitting and hose due to the crimp ferrel failing. It's a poor arrangement by SR and problematic wherever used. There are several threads on how to correct.
Well to be honest the problem is caused by two things. The pump and the length of the discharge hose.
The pump - I have an Oberdorfer 1/2 HP.
The discharge hose - This is the painful part; that hose routes from the HVAC unit under the bed down under the floor and back to the laundry room then up and behind the washer/dryer then over the starboard hull and up behind the freezer in the galley where it ties into the common drain line. It's like 35 feet of 1/2 inch hose.... it needs to be replaced with 3/4 inch hose as any restriction at all in that 1/2 inch hose causes problems. Some have drilled a hole in the hull in the front of the boat and drained it right there next to the HVAC unit but that tends to stain the hull with the water running down it.
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Mac Magic
Member
Found your post regarding the fitting on the water manifold. so you removed the end of all the fittings and replaced them with the Pex threaded adapter fittings? you weren't concerned that the lines wouldn't be long enough after cutting off the fitting? they seem kind of tight
Mac Magic
Member
replacing that discharge house seems like a daunting task...is that what you did?
I did.... The same time I removed the galley sink drain line from the sump box under the floor also and re-routed it to that common drain. I did a thread on that debacle last year.
Mac Magic
Member
TT, did you use the 1/2" x 1/2" female sharkbite adapters for the water manifold connections?
PEX swivel adapters. The issue is the hose ID is too large; to conform the hose to the adapter (actually you can reuse the SR ones without the ferrel) the hose needs to be heated with a heat gun then clamped down on the fitting. Most of mine are heavy duty worm screw clamps but I've moved to Oetiker pinch clamps.
- Dec 31, 2006
- 2,826
- Boat Info
- H2O Therapy
2006 Sundancer 48
Novurania 430DL
HighField 340-FCT
Yamaha EX-R
Raymarine
PADI DM
- Engines
- Cummins QSC 540's
I used a dremel cut off wheel and cut through the original crimp, pry it off and then slip off the pipe to reuse the original fitting. Tom is correct simply heat gun the hose and then hose clamp it back in place. You are correct though there is no “slack” so cutting the hose is not an option. Take your time and save it all. The whole manifold took me an hour.
Mac Magic
Member
Nice!! Thanks. I thought that’s what Tom meant. Guess I’m buying a dremel. What about the washers? While I have it apart I’d like to replace them as well.
- May 16, 2019
- 1,039
- Boat Info
- 07 52 Sedan Bridge, 2019 Brig Falcon 360HT-30HP Honda, 2003 16' Dauntless
- Engines
- Cummins QSM 11 660 HP w/ ZF 325-1A
I have 1000gph March pumps (AC-5C-MD-0150-0136-0100) They seem to work well although occasionally I will get a HPS fault as well. The PO routed the drain line out underneath the bed. It still will trip the HPS code once or twice a year. Maybe the pump, maybe my old A/C unit or maybe crap in the lines... Haven't confirmed definitively yet.
Mac Magic
Member
Pumps? So you have the same size pump for the bridge unit and the other units?
