500/520 DB official thread

Did you replace the whole white plastic vent that the black screen is attached to? I ask because I want to take them off to put Lights behind them but I don’t know how easily they come off and I don’t want to create a big project just to put the lights in.

No I just removed the small round outlets for the Bilge Exhaust Fans. I started to take the whole 6' (or whatever it is) vent off but it was caulked as well as screwed in place so I stopped and kept fighting with it.

I like your idea to mount LED's in there...

The black screen in the top comes out (or pushes aside) pretty easily to allow you to get in there and mount Tape LED or whatever. I need to re-secure mine once I figure out the best black adhesive to use...
 
Just for looks. I had put LEDs in the vents on my 340da and thought it looked nice. The 520 has some in there now from the factory but they are dim and you can hardly see them. This isn’t a very good photo of them but they looked good in person.
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This is what the 520 has now. It would be nice if they were brighter

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I love the vent lights the way they are now as accent.
 
God damnit Jeremy.... I like that.... add one more project to my 48. What lights did you use to light up those vents?
They are waterproof led strips I got from super bright led.com.
 
That kind of messes with the Red/Green/White light thing...

Unless they are used while docked.

We get pulled over for running with underwater lights on.
Tim
They are not on while running.
 
I love the vent lights the way they are now as accent.
They look better in the pic than they do in person. They are very dim in person. The rest of the lights on the boat are much brighter and they look out of place IMO but I like lights so I am biased.
 
No I just removed the small round outlets for the Bilge Exhaust Fans. I started to take the whole 6' (or whatever it is) vent off but it was caulked as well as screwed in place so I stopped and kept fighting with it.

I like your idea to mount LED's in there...

The black screen in the top comes out (or pushes aside) pretty easily to allow you to get in there and mount Tape LED or whatever. I need to re-secure mine once I figure out the best black adhesive to use...
That’s kinda of what it looked like to me too. So the black screens are just glued in place?
 
I received the door rollers I had ordered on ebay. They are the real deal. Nice and heavy duty. Door rolls great now. Remember, Taylor Made wanted $130 each and I paid $80 for all 4. Still working the door latch. Carter, I tried to adjust it up about a millimeter and then the lower screw would not line up with the lower hole. I'm still brainstorming. Even if I made a bar of some sort to drop in the track (for security), our door is on the outside and the bar would need an extension like an L shape to grab the inner door. Then I could make one for the outside while running to assure the door wasn't slamming open in rougher seas. Piece of mind if I can't fix the latch properly.
Thanks good to know. Mine where a little bit rusty when I took the door off. I was able to clean the, up but they won’t last forever.
 
That’s kinda of what it looked like to me too. So the black screens are just glued in place?

Yes the black screens are held in place with a black adhesive/caulk.
 
I received the door rollers I had ordered on ebay. They are the real deal. Nice and heavy duty. Door rolls great now. Remember, Taylor Made wanted $130 each and I paid $80 for all 4. Still working the door latch. Carter, I tried to adjust it up about a millimeter and then the lower screw would not line up with the lower hole. I'm still brainstorming. Even if I made a bar of some sort to drop in the track (for security), our door is on the outside and the bar would need an extension like an L shape to grab the inner door. Then I could make one for the outside while running to assure the door wasn't slamming open in rougher seas. Piece of mind if I can't fix the latch properly.
Can you move the entire door down by retracting the lower rollers and extending the upper rollers? That way you would still have good contact with the upper and lower tracks, but the entire door (and latch) would be lower...
 
Can you move the entire door down by retracting the lower rollers and extending the upper rollers? That way you would still have good contact with the upper and lower tracks, but the entire door (and latch) would be lower...
If you move them down too much, it won't catch on the upper stop to hold the door open.
 
If you move them down too much, it won't catch on the upper stop to hold the door open.
Tim, that’s a good point. I was able to lower my bottom ones one full turn and raise the top ones one full turn and it still worked. But that helped my latch.
 
Has anyone purchased QSM 11 service manuals? and if so, which one did you purchase? I would like to have a service manual on board, given that some of our trips are far from a mechanic. The Cummins website lists several difference options, and I'm wondering what hte difference is between the Marine Owners Manual, the Marine Auxiliary Owner's manual, and the Service manual.

Screenshot 2021-04-28 104404.png
 
Has anyone purchased QSM 11 service manuals? and if so, which one did you purchase? I would like to have a service manual on board, given that some of our trips are far from a mechanic. The Cummins website lists several difference options, and I'm wondering what hte difference is between the Marine Owners Manual, the Marine Auxiliary Owner's manual, and the Service manual.

View attachment 104026
I haven’t but I like the idea. Can you post what you find out.
 
I haven’t but I like the idea. Can you post what you find out.
Has anyone purchased QSM 11 service manuals? and if so, which one did you purchase? I would like to have a service manual on board, given that some of our trips are far from a mechanic. The Cummins website lists several difference options, and I'm wondering what hte difference is between the Marine Owners Manual, the Marine Auxiliary Owner's manual, and the Service manual.

View attachment 104026

My boat came with the owners manual and I bought the services manuals Volume 1 & 2. Not sure if it would really help in a pinch as they show a lot of technical overhaul stuff which is useless to most of us. But there is a lot of useful information to help understand these engines. They do come in handy for torque specs. and sequence. Curious what the auxiliary owners manual has for info.
 
My boat came with the owners manual and I bought the services manuals Volume 1 & 2. Not sure if it would really help in a pinch as they show a lot of technical overhaul stuff which is useless to most of us. But there is a lot of useful information to help understand these engines. They do come in handy for torque specs. and sequence. Curious what the auxiliary owners manual has for info.

Would you mind taking a photo of the covers of the books and posting?
 
Any 50/52DB’s out there with RED bottom paint? A picture would be cool if so...

On another note, spring refresh is almost complete, I hope...

Detailed top to bottom, painted the bottom and new zincs are on.

Also added position sensors to the trim tabs and replaced the boot stripes from black to blue.

Now hoping for some luck with the two cutlass bearing replacements next week.

Working on the hydraulic lift today also.

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Cutlass Bearings are out... the starboard took an act of god to get it out... 8000psi of air, a bunch of heat and tapping with the sledge finally got the starboard side out. That side had the stiff propeller.

Port side came right out. Both engines need a little alignment, they said. Should be back together tomorrow. Props had a couple little dings and slight bend so I took them to the shop this morning.

Current pitch is 30.8” (down from 32”) but I asked Black Dog to take another 1” if he can.

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Full day today props, shafts, and struts pulled from the boat; heavy stuff.
Confirmed two bent struts so I'm happy it is relatively easy to repair.
View attachment 103550 View attachment 103551 View attachment 103552

I am sorry to say that I just learned my starboard Strut is bent also. Port side is ok but we are going to pull both shafts to have them checked and the starboard strut repaired. I thought that shaft had a visible slight wobble in it while running and that prop was very difficult to turn.

Tom - did you have to pull the generator and holding tank/water heater to get the struts nuts off?

Notice the Rudder and prop shaft are inline. They are supposed to be offset.

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