A Florida based 1987 390 Express Restoration

Re: A Florida based 1987 390 Express Restoration - Water Tank Hold Rotted Floor

Dr MicroChip said:
...
So out came the Skill saw, the Saws All, some prybars and the shop vac. See the photos here:
http://www.trans-micro.com/Strobofl...9-15 Rotted floor under Water Tank/index.html
If you have ever had a leaking water tank or water around the water tank this is probably what your boat looks like underneath too. Fresh water rots wood! Stay tuned for the floor replacement and the Stringer Sisters.
Click to expand...

Looks familiar!!!

Al, I would suggest to open up all the sealed compartments as I did. In the salon, in the guest cabin and in the head. Doing so will also allow you to check if the shower drain is leaking.

You can then move the shower sump from the center compartment into the one in the head.

I suggest to have a look at the first page of my thread :wink:
 
Re: A Florida based 1987 390 Express Restoration - Leaking Shower Drain

Thank you Pietro! I may have never opened up the compartment below the head. In another brilliant Sea Ray design innovation they enclosed the shower drain in a fiberglass box. When the water finally leaked form the poorly sealed silicone rubber drain job, it had nowhere to go so it rotted out the bottom of the box and leaked on to the stringer!!!! The inside of this boat is starting to look like a chunk of Swiss cheese! When will it end??

See the photos here: http://www.trans-micro.com/Strobofl...ry/2011-09-16 Leaking Shower Drain/index.html
  • :smt021
 
My shower was actually leaking but now I will be able to fix it easily. The outcome of all this cutting will be the availability of new infinite room for storage and the possibility to spot immediately any future leak!

Al, there will be an end, be confident and it will be rewarding.

This summer I enjoyed the boat as never before... classic american clean lines among hundreds of euro-bubbles-design boats, a new fresh cozy interior and all systems working.... Great!!!
 
"You will need the installation tools and their glue to glue the ends."

I never saw any mention of their tools and glue on the trimlok website. What exactly are these tools Al. I can appreciate having the proper adhesive to seal up the end cuts though.

~Ken
 
No shower bow on mine either and the hole in the pic was much smaller with no possibility of reaching the drain through it!

shower box 390.jpg
 
I had the same feelings when I was at the photo on the left last winter. But before I knew it, I was at the photo on the right this spring.
beforeafter copy.jpg
 
LK-1522.jpg
If I understand this locking gasket system correctly, one would make a rubber frame from this material and weld up the corners with their special goop, then insert this whole assembly onto the aluminum window frame from the outside of the boat. You would have to resize the window plexi to fit this new system and insert them into the gasket frame from the inside of the boat and snap up the locking system up against the window. So far, so good. The stb side should not present any problems, but the port side is a different story. The aft window would present some challenges trying to lock up the gasket on the top of the window working arould the vinyl clad backing board for the blinds. The fwd window goes in behind the shower and the other end is in front of the bulkhead for the bathroom a/c ducting. At this point, I am not sure if reversing the gasket would be a good thing to do. It certainly wouldn't look as good, but I don't see any other way. What are your thoughts on this?

~Ken
 
electricaldoctor said:
LK-1522.jpg
If I understand this locking gasket system correctly, one would make a rubber frame from this material and weld up the corners with their special goop, then insert this whole assembly onto the aluminum window frame from the outside of the boat. You would have to resize the window plexi to fit this new system and insert them into the gasket frame from the inside of the boat and snap up the locking system up against the window. So far, so good. The stb side should not present any problems, but the port side is a different story. The aft window would present some challenges trying to lock up the gasket on the top of the window working arould the vinyl clad backing board for the blinds. The fwd window goes in behind the shower and the other end is in front of the bulkhead for the bathroom a/c ducting. At this point, I am not sure if reversing the gasket would be a good thing to do. It certainly wouldn't look as good, but I don't see any other way. What are your thoughts on this?
~Ken
Click to expand...

You are right on all counts except working from the inside. The rubber gasket is installed on the outer flange of the frame and the acrylic is installed from the OUTSIDE of the boat. The locking part of the gasket is on the OUTSIDE of the boat. Nothing is done from the inside. - AL
 
Well, that certainly solves all of my installation issues Al. Now, I just have to wrap my head around these installation tools and decide if I really need them. We have a distributor up here in the Toronto area and I will be talking with them tomorrow. They sell it in 25' 50' and 100' rolls. A 50' roll is going to be just about enough without any screw ups. I'll get the materials ordered, but this will probably be a next year project as it may be too cool to do this and end up with acceptable results. There must be a preferred temperature range to work this material because of expansion issues.

~Ken
 
Re: A Florida based 1987 390 Express Restoration - Side Window Sealing

electricaldoctor said:
Well, that certainly solves all of my installation issues Al. Now, I just have to wrap my head around these installation tools and decide if I really need them. We have a distributor up here in the Toronto area and I will be talking with them tomorrow. They sell it in 25' 50' and 100' rolls. A 50' roll is going to be just about enough without any screw ups. I'll get the materials ordered, but this will probably be a next year project as it may be too cool to do this and end up with acceptable results. There must be a preferred temperature range to work this material because of expansion issues.

~Ken
Click to expand...

I bought the tools. In retrospect I should not have. You really only need the awl type tool with the bent end. You can easily make it. The rubber can be cut with a really sharp knife or hose cutting tool from the hardware or auto parts store. I have a spreadsheet that will calculate how long to cut the acrylic for a particular ambient temp of the acrylic at time of cutting vs the length of the frame. They say to cut the rubber 1% longer than the exact length so it is in compression all the time. Look at the bright side - in Canada all the water will be solid for 6 months so leaks are not an issue! Here in Florida it rains all the friggin' time!
 
Thanx for all of the info Al. With all of the rain that you get, I can now fully appreciate your friggn' motivation to get rid of these leaks once and for all.

I have another leak situation that has to be addressed. The wire for my stb windshield wiper runs down the windshield corner post. Water gets into that post somehow and tracks down that wire and into the cabin behind the blinds in the area above the cook top.

I would greatly appreciate it if you would share your spreadsheet with me. I will PM you with my e-mail address.

~Ken
 
electricaldoctor said:
Thanx for all of the info Al. With all of the rain that you get, I can now fully appreciate your friggn' motivation to get rid of these leaks once and for all.

I have another leak situation that has to be addressed. The wire for my stb windshield wiper runs down the windshield corner post. Water gets into that post somehow and tracks down that wire and into the cabin behind the blinds in the area above the cook top.
~Ken
Click to expand...

The water leaks here:
http://www.trans-micro.com/Strobofl...shield and window repair/slides/DSC_8227.html
and here on the underside. You have to caulk both sides. It is a ***** but you have to do it.
http://www.trans-micro.com/Strobofl...shield and window repair/slides/DSC_8226.html
Also clean out the drain slots on each side windsheild:
http://www.trans-micro.com/Strobofl...shield and window repair/slides/DSC_8231.html

The acrylic side windows are 3/16"
Al
 
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