Anchoring with Rope only windlass

larrytbull

New Member
Apr 17, 2009
373
PA
Boat Info
95 330
hurth v drive
Engines
merc 7.4 inboard
Hi,
I have been having a terrible time hooking up with my Goode Rope only Windlass. This is my first boat with a windlass and prior to that I always used a bit of chain along with my rope and never had too much problem hooking up. I have tried bigger and heavier anchors. I now Have a 32lb cqr style plow anchor with hinges, I previously had a danforth style . When I drop the anchor I let it drop strainght down, then let current push me about 5 secs then lock windlass, but in the delaware rive, the current is very fast, and the anchor does not seem to hook in. on my gps I see a between .6 and 1mph drift into the current. Am I not doing something correct? can the rest of you share how you get hooked in?

I just spent 600 to refurb this last year and am feeling buyers remorse as My gut is telling me I should have spent 1k and drilled some new holes to put in a proper chain/rode windlass


thanks

Larry
 
I had a '96 300 with a good windlass, and a danforth anchor, and never had problem holding, after I added a short length of chain. The Good windlass will not take chain, so I measured the distance from the windlass to the anchor, and inserted a length of heavy galvonized chain that fit in that space... It was enough to help the anchor to hold everytime I anchored which often...
 
I've got a 30,000 lb boat and a Good all rope windlass and I love it. If there is a trick, it is letting out enough scope that the anchor deploys properly. But that really isn't a windlass issue as much as a physics question. Chain tends to sink and lay on the bottom which creates pull a shallower angle........try letting out more scope and you get the same result.

In 15 ft of water, I typically let out 125-150 ft of line. In the 13 years I've owned this boat the only time the anchor has failed to hook up was when it happened to fall on some junk on the bottom.
 
Ditto what Rod said. I have no probs with this setup. I also added a piece of chain - thickest stuff I can find - from the shaft to the front of the windlass. I guess you're letting out enough scope. What's the bottom? Mud, sand, rock? I think plows are mainly for mud but not sure (?)

I have a Danforth 20lb hi-tensile.
tices1a.jpg


You can sort of see the setup here...
Hatch.jpg


One note: my previous boat came with a no-name danforth-style that didn't hold worth a s&#t, even after I increased the length of the chain. I bought a Danforth and problem solved.
 
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If you are drifting too fast, the anchor can skate rather than set. Try using a little power to slow your the drift while you deploy. I've done this on windy days, if my windlass doesn't pay out fast enough.
 
Larry,

When I had my 240DA with danforth style anchor I had troubles sometimes. It wouldn't set or sometimes just drag. I had all rope, no chain. So, I switched to equvalent and properly sized Delta anchor with intention of adding chain, if needed. That anchor was doing an awesome job and I didn't add the chain. Since we're in different waters the bottom surface is the key here. I think the anchor you have is a good anchor, however I would not purchase rope only windlass. At this time I would make sure that you're using proper scope (7:1 or 10:1). If that doesn't work, then you need to analyze the bottom condition (mud, sand, grass, rocks, etc.) and review if the anchor type matches. Here's what WM said about it "favorite among bluewater cruisers for its strength and performance in a wide range of bottom conditions. Excellent penetration in sand, weeds, rocks and mud.". Therefore, chances are you might need to add at least 15'-20' of chain.
 
......try letting out more scope and you get the same result.

In 15 ft of water, I typically let out 125-150 ft of line.....

I'm with Frank here. In my experience extra scope of line wins over the chain with shorter scope. Don't ask me how I discovered this mistory. It still puzzles me, but it was a fact in my situation.
 
I used to own a boat with rope only, and now have the chain/rope setup. Rope works fine, it just takes a lot more scope to get the same holding power.

Don
 
Hi,
I have been having a terrible time hooking up with my Goode Rope only Windlass. This is my first boat with a windlass and prior to that I always used a bit of chain along with my rope and never had too much problem hooking up. I have tried bigger and heavier anchors. I now Have a 32lb cqr style plow anchor with hinges, I previously had a danforth style . When I drop the anchor I let it drop strainght down, then let current push me about 5 secs then lock windlass, but in the delaware rive, the current is very fast, and the anchor does not seem to hook in. on my gps I see a between .6 and 1mph drift into the current. Am I not doing something correct? can the rest of you share how you get hooked in?

I just spent 600 to refurb this last year and am feeling buyers remorse as My gut is telling me I should have spent 1k and drilled some new holes to put in a proper chain/rode windlass


thanks

Larry

Based on a drop and 5 second wait before locking the windlass it doesn't sound like you are letting out enough scope. As others have mentioned 5:1 or better yet 7:1 should help you get a good hold.
 
thanks guys, i am definitely not letting out that much scope, i am going to try that and see if it hooks better
 
I had the same "goode" rope only windlass, got tired of dealing with your same issue, lot's of line/rode out to hold position.Replaced the windlass with a Lewmar H1000 Pro with 20' 5/15 G4 chain/200' line, problems all gone...
 
There are certain advantages of an all rope rode including less (maybe even zero) possiblilty of jamming and less weight to tote around (no chain). It's also quieter in rough anchorages - chain can be noisey if you're sleeping. As Frank said, the optimal angle the shank makes with the sea floor is created either by chain weighing down the shank or by increasing the scope of your all rope rode. Also, your choice of anchor should be based on the type of bottom you most anchor in. All this stuff is in Chapman's and readily available online.
 
The thing I really like about the all rope windlass, and Good in particular, is that it is a free drop, not a power down windlass. I can approach my spot, release the anchor and immediately back to where I want to be, reverse the windlass to set the dog and I'm done. I can be anchored and having fun while my friends are still screwing with powering out their chain and keeping their windlasses from hanging up and skipping. The main advantage, however, is when anchoring in crowded or windy conditions because the boat is always controllable and never drifting unless you want it to be.
 
thanks guys, i am definitely not letting out that much scope, i am going to try that and see if it hooks better


You still might want to add chain. I had all rope and let out plenty of rode but still had trouble with anchor re-catching when the tide changed. Since I added chain, I no longer have that problem. Good Luck!
 
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It's all scope and bottom conditions. What are the bottom conditions where you anchor. If they are that black soupy muck then the CQR may not be the best one for those conditions. Your old anchor with more scope could be better. The CQR will work with more, a lot more scope, depending on the area and how crowded and the swing you have that may not make sense to do... Best of luck!
 

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