Damn shower sump!!!

Pietro

Pietro

Active Member
Nov 1, 2009
1,757
Rome, Italy
Boat Info
1990 390 EC
Engines
3208 375HP CAT
I can’t believe this! The shower sump failed last week-end and water filled the compartment under the head’s floor!!!
How can a two year old switch fail? Damn Rule!

t_12886.gif

I will now try to work out a solution. I was thinking of a double sump arrangement. If the first one fills up, then water can flow into the second one… and a tell light in the shower stall.
What's your experience???
 
I have two but they are for separate showers. I have though about a cross over arrangement to allow an automatic backup in case one fails. It would be pretty simple. I am going to replace them both first. I did add a spring loaded check valve that keeps water from flowing back in when the pump turns off. Works like a charm!
 
Mine just failed too. Fortunately, my boat already has an emergency sump pump that caught the runoff. Too bad it didn't get it all, so everything in storage got wet and stayed that way for a week. I installed a different brand. Rule...doesnt
 
almostenuff said:
Mine just failed too. Fortunately, my boat already has an emergency sump pump that caught the runoff. Too bad it didn't get it all, so everything in storage got wet and stayed that way for a week. I installed a different brand. Rule...doesnt
Click to expand...

Problem is that the sump is not water tight!!! The only sump that seems worth something to me is the Whale.

10286516.jpg
 
A few years ago, I consolidated my two Attwood sumps into one Rule sump. I've considered installing another Rule sump and linking them together for redundancy, but so far the cost and trouble of maintaining two boxes doesn't seem worth it.

The float switch failed quickly, but I had a mercury switch on hand. They're no longer available, which is another reason for me to not want to buy another Rule box with their ready-to-fail float switches.

Note: Rule components have a 3 warranty

The sealed sump doesn't appeal to me, because if that were to fail, it would cause an overflow in the AC condensate pan. I'd rather have water in the center bilge where there's a nearby bilge pump.
 
RollerCoastr said:
...
The sealed sump doesn't appeal to me, because if that were to fail, it would cause an overflow in the AC condensate pan. I'd rather have water in the center bilge where there's a nearby bilge pump.
Click to expand...

Good point. I didn't think of the a/c condensate...

For now I've ordered the Whale and I'm thinking of adding a water alarm in the compartment.
 
Im am thinking about replacing my standard Rule sump set-up with a Johnson pump; the local marine store tells me they are of higher quality than the others. I have the typical larger sump that has a well with the switch mounted quite a bit higher than the pump which always leaves gallons of water in the sump even when it's pumping out correctly. I want to mount the switch in the well, either through mounting an integrated switch/pump or a seperate switch located next to the pump at or near the same level.

Johnson offers several switch options but I am looking at the "Ultima" field effect switch that mounts to the side:
Ultima Switch.jpg

Here is the integrated switch/pump:
Ultima Integrated Pump.png

Any thoughts or experience with Johnson pumps?
 
I too am FED UP WITH CRAPPY RULE SWITCHES.

I just ordered two of the Johnson Ultima switches. Best service and price I found was from JMSONLINE.COM $34.30 each.
 
I replaced my Rule "sticky" float switch installed in the A/C and shower sump about 3 weeks ago with a Johnson Ultima. So far so good. I just hope it lasts.
 
My Attwood has given me fits. Last week I fired off an email to Attwood before I went and bought a new one. Today, I received a brand new pump free of charge. Love customer support like that so I'm going to give it another shot. Considering installing the manual switch as well to just let it run when using the shower but we'll see how this goes.
 
There's a whole new component when your boat has a grey water tank like mine.

Im trying new Attwood pumps with a 500gph installed in tandem with a 750gph. These will replace the 2 Rule that are currently in the boat. Instead of my forward pump releasing into the bilge, I'm having it's overflow go to the rear one.

My issue has been both floats and check valves. Install is this Friday with a buddy's help. Wish me luck.

Mark
 
Shower boxes are a PITA.
The only real trick is to clean out the shower box often.
I also try to pour some bilge cleaner in the shower drain every 3rd or 4th shower.
Working good so far..
It a small expense compared to cleaning out the darn box.

Cheers.
 
Cincy Aquaholic said:
My Attwood has given me fits. Last week I fired off an email to Attwood before I went and bought a new one. Today, I received a brand new pump free of charge. Love customer support like that so I'm going to give it another shot. Considering installing the manual switch as well to just let it run when using the shower but we'll see how this goes.
Click to expand...

Could you send me the e-mail addy (e-mail address is below)? I too have an Attwood pump in my shower sump and now the float is sticky (my boat is a year newer than yours), even after removal and thorough cleaning of the pump and float. It doesn't start like it should and the sump box overfills and comes out the emergency overflow spout into the bilge. Luckily, the emergency backup pump starts. The pump, if the level is high enough, will start if I knock on the top of the sump box (or the pump itself) and it will pump as expected. Now the first thing I do when I arrive at the boat is lift the bilge access and tap the top of the sump box to ensure it starts and pumps down. What a shame.

Thanks in advance.

Also, any tips for getting my point across without seeming to beligerant (sp?) would be appreciated. I know what I'm supposed to say, but often times I come across too harsh in my delivery.

matthewmiller01@hotmail.com
 
I totally solved my switch problem by replacing the Rule with a Water Witch Inc. Model 101 switch (you can google to find it), no moving parts, just a sensor - it has run ever since. Now the pump on the other hand, that continues to give me fits. Right now it works perfectly about 98% of the time, but every so often it gets air up under it and runs indefinitely until it burns out or I catch it and go in there and lift it up to get the air out. I'm going to replace my check valve next week to see if it will help, if not I'll try putting in yet another pump ... I seem to go through 3-4 pumps a season in this box. Still trying to figure out a bulletproof solution for the pump ...

Regards,
Capt. Jason
 
The rule switches last much longer if you use liquid soap in the shower as opposed to bar soap. I replaced mine last year, and it needs to be cleaned about every 2 months. If it fails prematurely, after this new installation, I will go with another, for sure. I think they are actually designed for the ocassional user.

Don
 
Shower sumps and pumps are a problem if they are not properly maintained. There is a simple trick I learned many years ago from an experienced cruising couple. Many shower drains on larger boats have a screw out drain that can be removed with a spanner wrench. I keep a supply of fiberglass window screens that have been cut in circles and fit under the drain cap when it is removed. Once installed we screw the drain cap back into the shower drain pipe. The fiberglass window screen is fine enough to trap soap film and hair. When the drain begins to run slowly, the fiberglass screen under the drain cap is replaced. We use Ivory soap which seems to prolong the interval between screen replacement. Typically, we get about 30 days on a screen before throwing it away. In other words, two showers a day for a month. Another trick is to use concentrated bilge cleaner poured down the shower drain once a week to keep the sump clean and fresh smelling.
Our shower sump is in a difficult location to service and my Tiara manual recommends cleaning it once a month. This is not really feasible due to its location. We have been following the above routine since purchasing the boat new in 2004 and have never had the lid off of the sump. So far it has been working flawlessly and the sump looks very clean inside. It has a clear top which you can see through with a flashlight, but is beyond my reach without removing the stairway. I will do this someday if it fails, but so far preventive maintenance seems to be the key to keeping it working in spite of very heavy use. It also catches the A/C condensate and so it has a steady source of clean water going through it.
 
matthewmiller01 said:
Could you send me the e-mail addy (e-mail address is below)? I too have an Attwood pump in my shower sump and now the float is sticky (my boat is a year newer than yours), even after removal and thorough cleaning of the pump and float. It doesn't start like it should and the sump box overfills and comes out the emergency overflow spout into the bilge. Luckily, the emergency backup pump starts. The pump, if the level is high enough, will start if I knock on the top of the sump box (or the pump itself) and it will pump as expected. Now the first thing I do when I arrive at the boat is lift the bilge access and tap the top of the sump box to ensure it starts and pumps down. What a shame.

Thanks in advance.

Also, any tips for getting my point across without seeming to beligerant (sp?) would be appreciated. I know what I'm supposed to say, but often times I come across too harsh in my delivery.

matthewmiller01@hotmail.com
Click to expand...

Matthew, I sent my email to the "contact" address on their website and they replied with a phone a call. I would like to think that the same treatment would be given to you. I simply explained the issue I had which is identical to yours despite the pump and box being cleaned weekly. I believe he float was just getting hung up hence the "tap" freeing it. Same problem I had. Do your best to explain how the problem occurs just like you did here then just express your disappointment and frustration with having to clean th bilge. Requires shop vac for me because I refuse to all water to sit there. Then ask for a suggestion or possibly a courtesy replacement offer.

New pump installed and it worked flawlessly all week. I was thrilled! Btw, I saw somewhere that the pumps have a 3 year warranty I believe. So they have pretty good support.
 
I used my new Johnsone Ultima fully electronic shower sump switch this weekend. Worked perfectly. Time will tell how well it lasts.
 
Cincy Aquaholic said:
Matthew, I sent my email to the "contact" address on their website and they replied with a phone a call. I would like to think that the same treatment would be given to you. I simply explained the issue I had which is identical to yours despite the pump and box being cleaned weekly. I believe he float was just getting hung up hence the "tap" freeing it. Same problem I had. Do your best to explain how the problem occurs just like you did here then just express your disappointment and frustration with having to clean th bilge. Requires shop vac for me because I refuse to all water to sit there. Then ask for a suggestion or possibly a courtesy replacement offer.

New pump installed and it worked flawlessly all week. I was thrilled! Btw, I saw somewhere that the pumps have a 3 year warranty I believe. So they have pretty good support.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the information and advice, Cincy. I'll see what happens.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,241
Messages
1,429,113
Members
61,122
Latest member
DddAae
Back
Top