Dock Circuit Breaker Trips

[Dehli]

That makes sense! I did a drawing showing what I saw and took some pictures to better explain the drawing. Looks like it's only going to the air conditioning rotary switch (unless I'm misunderstanding what's going on). Also I'm color blind so what I labeled as green might actually be grey, sorry about that!

I was gone for 2.5 hours without the dock tripping so I reconnected the batteries and left the converter on (with the side panel's switch off). The last picture shows that. I noticed that the reverse polarity light is on. Is that normal? I didn't notice it before but I'm not sure if it's always been on.

 

[Dehli]

Went back to the boat and it hasn't tripped for 90 minutes with the converter on. I also looked at the RP light closer and I'm seeing the normal and RP light illuminated (picture attached).

 

[Skybolt]

Went back to the boat and it hasn't tripped for 90 minutes with the converter on. I also looked at the RP light closer and I'm seeing the normal and RP light illuminated (picture attached).

The pics you posted of the breakers and switches do not make any sense. It seems as the neutral is being treated as a hot. So that could be a source of the reverse polarity through the AC unit, possibly. It is still unclear how the boat is actually wired because you also show the side panel wires going to the main panel breaker(s) as well.

I am going to say this, it looks like your boat is not wired correctly. As Tom mentioned the side panel should be the boats disconnect from the dock, both hot legs. Then the neutrals go to two separate neutral bus bars. And in this case, two separate 30A feeds, the breaker would not be tied together. But if that is only for the AC unit, then that is possibly how they are lifting the hot and neutral from the dock. Usually the neutral is lifted from the generator when on dock power. So that makes no sense either.

The other thing that can be suspect as Tom has mentioned, is the wiring of the rotary switches. That can only be verified by being there and looking at the wiring option(s) for that switch. But in short, that switch should be lifting the the neutrals from the generator and also the dock feed(s) as well as switching the hot legs.

So if this were my boat, I would disconnect the incoming lines from the dock and put the hot(black) legs through the yellow panel with the breakers separated. The the neutrals would go to two independent bus bars. If one leg is only for the AC, then that can go to the AC rotary switch(s). Meaning both hot legs go to their respective rotary switch(s). From the rotary switch to the AC unit. The other rotary switch out leg would go to the main panel and the neutral to the independent bus bar (the one that is there). All ground(s) would be tied together, both shore grounds, generator and panel(s).

 

[ttmott]

The pics you posted of the breakers and switches do not make any sense. It seems as the neutral is being treated as a hot. So that could be a source of the reverse polarity through the AC unit, possibly. It is still unclear how the boat is actually wired because you also show the side panel wires going to the main panel breaker(s) as well.

I am going to say this, it looks like your boat is not wired correctly. As Tom mentioned the side panel should be the boats disconnect from the dock, both hot legs. Then the neutrals go to two separate neutral bus bars. And in this case, two separate 30A feeds, the breaker would not be tied together. But if that is only for the AC unit, then that is possibly how they are lifting the hot and neutral from the dock. Usually the neutral is lifted from the generator when on dock power. So that makes no sense either.

The other thing that can be suspect as Tom has mentioned, is the wiring of the rotary switches. That can only be verified by being there and looking at the wiring option(s) for that switch. But in short, that switch should be lifting the the neutrals from the generator and also the dock feed(s) as well as switching the hot legs.

So if this were my boat, I would disconnect the incoming lines from the dock and put the hot(black) legs through the yellow panel with the breakers separated. The the neutrals would go to two independent bus bars. If one leg is only for the AC, then that can go to the AC rotary switch(s). Meaning both hot legs go to their respective rotary switch(s). From the rotary switch to the AC unit. The other rotary switch out leg would go to the main panel and the neutral to the independent bus bar (the one that is there). All ground(s) would be tied together, both shore grounds, generator and panel(s).

I would think the neutrals from the shorepower be directly connected to the rotary switches. Also the neutral/ground from the generator also to the rotary switches. Then from the rotary switch to two independent neutral buss bars. The rotary switches then select which neutral (shore or generator) to feed to the buss. BTW this is how a 80's Hatteras that I help a friend get the wiring straightened out was.

But, yes I was also confused on the white wires coming from the dual pole breaker. It should be a "Line 1" hot and a "Line 2" hot.

As to the reverse polarity lamp - the only way it can illuminate is if a neutral and hot were switched. Sometimes they will flash due to current on the neutral having a potential greater than ground.

 

[Dehli]

Thank you both! That makes a lot of sense.

To restate, currently the dock goes to the rotary switches first and the panel on the side is being used as a switch for the air conditioning circuit. If it were wired correctly, the entry point would be the side panel and then from there it would go to the rotary switches before the panel itself.

because you also show the side panel wires going to the main panel breaker(s) as well.

That's correct. It's going to the air conditioning switch on the main panel (since it wasn't clear from the previous picture).

Even with the new discussed setup, wouldn't it still need to go through that? I've got a good next step though! Thanks again!

 

[Skybolt]

I would think the neutrals from the shorepower be directly connected to the rotary switches. Also the neutral/ground from the generator also to the rotary switches. Then from the rotary switch to two independent neutral buss bars. The rotary switches then select which neutral (shore or generator) to feed to the buss. BTW this is how a 80's Hatteras that I help a friend get the wiring straightened out was.

But, yes I was also confused on the white wires coming from the dual pole breaker. It should be a "Line 1" hot and a "Line 2" hot.

As to the reverse polarity lamp - the only way it can illuminate is if a neutral and hot were switched. Sometimes they will flash due to current on the neutral having a potential greater than ground.

Weelll, I was trying to imply that, I guess that didn't come across about the neutrals. Sorry I didn't reread before I posted that, confusing, my bad. But to your point, absolutely both hot and neutrals go to the rotary switch(s) then to the panel. Keep in mind that the generator will also do the same. To the rotaries and then to the panel. The generator will bridge both rotaries as it is a single power source for a single phase of 110 feeding both switches.

But regarding the RP light, it looks like that is a distinct possibility that the neutral and hot are swapped, at least on that yellow breaker panel, unless that's an attempt to isolate them both. But that would make no sense since that's what the rotary switches are for.

 

[Skybolt]

... To restate, currently the dock goes to the rotary switches first and the panel on the side is being used as a switch for the air conditioning circuit. If it were wired correctly, the entry point would be the side panel and then from there it would go to the rotary switches before the panel itself. ...

Yes exactly. The panel should not care what the source is only that it gets 110v and supply's that to the various circuits. The rotary switches handle the 110v source and lifting the neutrals etc.

The separate white breaker for the AC is actually good, that breaker should be fed by one of the rotary switches. The other white breaker should be fed by the other rotary switch. Those two breakers are our "Mains" for the panel.

Now the point of entry from the shore power should go through the yellow breakers first. You need to be able to disconnect the power quickly if something should go wrong. The same for the generator, but that can be shut down. So going to the rotary is ok.

Now keep in mind that when switching the rotary switches you should always have the white breakers on the panel off first. Then switch the rotaries, then flip the white breakers (Mains in this case) back on

Ideally the rotaries and the yellow panel should go away and use something like below, except in 30A. When wired correctly this switch is much safer and less confusing.

 

[Dehli]

Thanks so much you for all the help you've been! I'll work on rewiring the boat next weekend but at least for now I have a workaround to keep the dock from tripping. Will follow up with my progress. Hope you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving!