Fresh Water Pump on 480DB

brimanst

brimanst

Member
Dec 20, 2006
219
Mt. Pleasant, SC
Boat Info
1998 Sedan Bridge 480DB
Engines
Twin CAT 3196's 660HP
I apologize right now for the flood of questions that is about to be unleashed on this forum about the 480DB. I just bought her and she needs some TLC (read - reduction in price).

The Survey indicated that one of the fresh water pumps (Fresh water pump #2) is bad. Does that mean there are some places without water, or is the water pressure just lower? I am going to pick her up next week, and will be staying onboard with guests so if I need to bring one with me I would like to be prepared. Also, does anyone have the brand and model number of these pumps?

Thanks again.

briman
 
The fresh water pumps work together so if one goes out, you will just have a reduction in pressure (but it is still "ok"). I replaced both of my pumps so I would guess the older technology you have on the boat needs replacing. I'll have to find what I replaced them with. They are much quieter than the originals that were on the boat. A spare fresh water pump is a good spare to have.

On another note... I would not be sure one is bad. If you turn on a single faucet, only one pump turns on. Both pumps running at the same time, at least in my setup now, requires a pressure drop that a single faucet does not produce.
 
Sea Ray plumbs 2 pumps into the water system on larger boats to increase the volume of water available. They are in "parallel" so you probably won't have a no water situation but, you may find that some faucets have very little pressure since they are so far from the remaining pump.

Surveyors are good and worth what they charge, but I would wait and verify the pump is DOA before spending the $200 and hauling one that far. Many times the Sea Ray water system will get air in it and since these are automatic, on demand pumps, so they just pump air and won't shut off by themselves because air in the system is compressible. These are common water pumps and every marine outlet should stock them.

You probably have Surflo 3.3 GPM pumps.....the OEM part number on the ones initially installed was 2088-733-244; the same pump as a replacement carries part number 2088-414-734. If you replace the pump, be sure to do it with an identical replacement so the turn on and shut off pressures won't conflict between the 2 pumps.
 
The way to really check each pump, again.. on my boat, is to turn on the 12v breaker switch for each pump one at a time. I have a "Fresh Water Pump 1" and "Fresh Water Pump 2" switch so I can test each pump occasionally with the other turned off.
 
OK Frank.... Mine are in parallel like you describe... but they sure don't turn on and off together. I know this because I SWORE up and down that one pump would not turn on when I turned on the single kitchen faucet so I thought I had a bad pump. When I turned on more than one faucet, both pumps would run. I think there is no way for the pressure switch to be exactly aligned or give the same reading so if a single pump kicks in and keeps the pressure right, the other pump may not kick in if it is a little off. I chased this for a day a few years ago and that's all I could come up with. But they both kick in if I turn on more than one faucet.
 
Gary,

Mine do the same thing, but I only get a few seconds lag before the second pump kicks on. I think (operative word!) it is because the pumps are connected to the water system in a different place rather than side by side in the same line even though they may be physically located next to each other on the bulkhead. Since your boat is bigger and has longer water line runs I would expect the lag between pumps to be more pronounced on your boat than mine.

My point on the pump selection is to select a pump with specs that match the existing ones because the tendancy would be to buy a bigger pump with more output at a higher pressure.
 
Speaking of a bigger pump, I promised my fiance that she would be able to wash her long blond hair in the next boat. What are the cons to putting in bigger pumps to get more pressure to the shower head? I would think that as long as it does not exceed the max pressure of the pex, it should be ok. Where am I wrong in this thought. I want to go on extended cruises, but this could be a problem. Thanks again.

briman
 
The standard pumps produce 45 psi of pressure which should be adequate for showering.

I think your problem is one of flow not pressure. You have one functioning pump that is giving you 3.3 gpm @ 45 psi. When you open a shower head or faucet that flows 4 or 5 gpm, the pressure from your one pump goes to nothing since it has no resistance. Purge the air or replace the faulty pump and you should have adequate water flow.

Additionally, the pipe or tubing system Sea Ray used in 1995-about 2000 was prone to problems with fittings slipping off the ends of the pipe. Increasing the line pressure may get you more problems than it would solve.
 
460 FW pumps

After a life time of boating I've determined that boat designers allow water storage to allow one woman with just enough water to wash her hair and then run out of water mid body shower ... So buying more pump capacity won't help! :grin:

On the 460, the pumps are side by side and will operate together or in alone. I only run Pump # 1 and reserve # 2 for special occasions when there are two women or more on board, then a fire hydrant wouldn't be enough. :smt101
 
To update this problem, it seems that both pumps do work, they just don't seem to work very well. I see both pumps working seperately, and combined, but there is very little pressure. I cleaned out the strainers and it does not really help. One of them is leaking in hte housing, so I will probably have to replace it. I am thinking of replacing them with a 4.5 - 5 GPM. As long as I do not exceed the 45PSI, I should be ok, right?

briman
 
I was researching this thread looking for an answer to my water problem. Pump #1 runs great. Pump #2 never shuts off and does not pump water, while it makes lots of noise. There is virtually no water flow in the showers (turn head with jets up and the water dribbles over the head). Any suggestions? There does seem to be some air in the sytem with the #2 pump on but not with the #1 pump on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill
 
Sounds like the rubber diaphragm is shot. They wear out over time and the motor will spin and spin and nothing happens.

Look here:

www.depcopump.com/catalog107/132.pdf

You can get the parts to replace the guts of the head for a few bucks... You probably should get a spare for the other pump as it's days are probably numbered...

Or you can do like I did and just buy new pumps.
 
Gary,

This is a brand new pump installed when we took possession last summer and was told that it was normal to run continuously. We agree that the pump is shot and I will start beating on Marine Max. BTW, their business is collapsing in California. We love the boat and I am still amazed at the way that it handles.

I am replacing the ice maker on the bridge with a Norcold AC/DC 0051 refrigerator for keeping the beer cold while underway. If I get 5 years out of it I will be happy.

Bill
 
Have you checked the shower/sink heads? I had low pressure in my boat and it ended up being simply from buildup in the heads/nozzles or whatever their called.

Hope this helps,
 
Not to hijack the thread (well maybe) but my slip neighbor has a 2000 480DB and say's he's having issues with hot/cold water (both pumps were replaced last fall). When showering, every time you turn it on scolding hot water comes out first then cooler/warm water comes and it's fine. Turn it off and on again and the scolding water comes out first etc. Pressure seems to be fine.

My first thought was the fixture but maybe it's pump/accumulator related? It seems to happen just with the 2 showers... for the most part.
 
Y.O.L.O. said:
Not to hijack the thread (well maybe) but my slip neighbor has a 2000 480DB and say's he's having issues with hot/cold water (both pumps were replaced last fall). When showering, every time you turn it on scolding hot water comes out first then cooler/warm water comes and it's fine. Turn it off and on again and the scolding water comes out first etc. Pressure seems to be fine.

My first thought was the fixture but maybe it's pump/accumulator related? It seems to happen just with the 2 showers... for the most part.
Click to expand...


I think that cold and hot water lines are connected opposite to main valve
 
I think there's not enough info to answer the question.

It could be several things. First, if the pumps were replaced with higher capacity pumps and the old small accumulator tank was left in place, you'll get a hot surge at the shower everytime the pumps come on. Adding the bigger stainless accumulator tank from Shurflo will fix that problem as the pressure will be more consistent (I know... trust me). But the systems you describe are that it does it once then stops... if it is cycling very hot then warm then very hot then warm... then the accumulator tank will fix it. Been there... done that.

The other thing it could be is the mixing valve has gunk in it. I just took apart a Grohe mixing valve at the house here about 10 minutes ago and cleaned it out... I hate Grohe...
 
Thanks for the reply Gary. It was my understanding that it happens any time the shower is turned on, not cycling hot/cold/hot/cold. I'll check the pumps but, knowing him, it's probably safe to assume that they are higher capacity. The accumulator tank is original. Will check the mixing valve as well.

Thanks again, very helpful info.
 
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